3D Printing thread

[biecacka]

I don’t have the 3D printer. I was looking to see if it existed and would buy 2 of the brackets. I was thinking they could be like the vortech controller brackets, just larger.

Corey

 

[ludnix]

If you post a picture of the power brick I can make a model for you. I can only print it out depending on its final size though, my printer maxes out at 8x8" for the build area.

 

[biecacka]

Here a few pictures of them. I would prefer to mount them on the back of my stand longways, but wouldn’t mind going stand up route if the holder is tall enough. If that makes sense..

Corey

 

[ludnix]

Thanks @biecacka , it occurs to me that this is basically a painted bench top PSU. I did a search on thingiverse with those terms and found this item: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:846157
Would something like that work for you? Or are you looking for a full cradle for the bottom of the PSU to fit into?

 

[Palluk33]

Why is this happening when I’m trying to print circle ?

 

[TheGreatWave]

The spacing on your skirt looks a little wide, I would check your first layer height.

 

[dantimdad]

We can't sell via R2R without posting it in the marketplace and paying to do so.

We don't want anyone in trouble for doing so.

 

[Palluk33]

The spacing on your skirt looks a little wide, I would check your first layer height.

What is the best first layer height ?

 

[TheGreatWave]

Most materials are 0.2mm. 0.35 for PETG.

The printer itself needs to have the Z-offset set correctly so it corresponds with the first layer height you have set in the slicing software.

I typically measure the skirt from the last print to know if I need to adjust it for the next print. If the skirt is 0.25mm thick while you have the software set for 0.2mm then you will have to adjust the Z-offset 0.05mm on the printer.

You can cheat a little bit with some filaments (like PLA) to smoosh down a first layer, (measures 0.18mm when set to 0.2mm etc) but you will want to have these values close or it wont extrude the right amount of filament.

If the Z-offest is too high on the first layer, the filament looks thin and stringy and will pull away from inside corners because it's barley laying on the surface, as not enough plastic was extruded to fill the gap between the nozzle and the bed.

 

[dantimdad]

I agree with the above. I used to aim for this, now, I just set it on the fly by leveling the bed manually to get a little smoosh.

Works out great.

 

[Palluk33]

Can someone help me please what is happening
Some prints come out just fine but last couple tries is this

 

[dantimdad]

Stringing like that tends to be temperature related or even a clogged nozzle.

What is the material you are using and temps?

 

[Palluk33]

Stringing like that tends to be temperature related or even a clogged nozzle.

What is the material you are using and temps?

PETG 245 and 80 glass bed

 

[Larry L]

I dropped and broke my brand new MP60, I turned to the 3D printer to save the day!

What did you use to get such a nice model?

 

[Palluk33]

PETG 245 and 80 glass bed

Also my filment is breaking sometimes in this point

 

[Palluk33]

Anyone why is this happening

 

[Larry L]

Anyone why is this happening

It looks like maybe your nozzle (or someplace between the nozzle and the extruder) is getting clogged, so the teeth on the extruder are grinding up the filament instead of pushing it smoothly along.

 

[Ranjib]

Hello friends,
Been printing for only past one month. Got myself a creality ender 3. My main goal was to print enclosures for my controllers, various contraptions for sensors, tubes etc. Still a long way to go in terms of modelling. I am using Blender for modelling and Cura for slicing. Ender 3 is controlled by an octoprint instance running on Raspberry Pi (not octopi, but my hand rolled installation on raspbian). Printer hardware is stock, except the upgraded glass build plate.
Overall, I am very happy with the results. My prints are far from perfect, but they are functional, accurate enough for me to build the structural components with millimeter level error tolerance. I am using sanding/filing as last-mile solution. I have only used PLA till now, but planning to use PETG next (and upgrade to Capricorn tubing).
Here are few of my simple designs :)

• Temperature controller enclosure

• All in one controller enclosure

• Dosing pump enclosure

Other than these enclosures, I printed reefing relevant available designs from Thingiverse extensively. Stuff like floatswitch contraption by @sfgabe , mp 10 bracket by @Alemoki etc. I am printing a custom filter for my 3.7G pico tank as I write this post. This will be extremely useful :) . Me and my son enjoy watching 3d printers in action.

I am curious if you all use any common tag or something that I can use to search designs in thingiverse.

Just wanted to drop by and share my experience. Thank you for sharing all your learning.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

Anyone why is this happening

Like @Larry L said, I would look for a clog downstream from the extruder. In my experience prolonged printing on the Ender using the stock head at 245, will eventually degrade the PTFE tube end that's inserted into the hot end. Heat up the hot end pull out the tube and see if the end is melted or deformed.

If it's simply deformed, replace it.

If it's melted, you will need to replace it but you may also have some of he PTFE tube stuck down in the nozzle, which will need to be cleaned out.

 

[Palluk33]

Like @Larry L said, I would look for a clog downstream from the extruder. In my experience prolonged printing on the ENder using the stock head at 245, will eventually degrade the PTFE end thats inserted into the hot end. Heat up the hot end pull out the tube and see if the end is melted or deformed.

If it's simply deformed, replace it.

If it's melted, you will need to replace it but you may also have some of he PTFE tube stuck down in the nozzle, which will need to be cleaned out.

I tried to remove the nozzle and can't get un Screwed any tips or tricks how to remove it