3D Printing thread

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

What about the holes in the cup?

it would probably be similar to a colander - you know, the thing you drain your noodles with - LOL
I'll draw something up

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Made these for a friend of mine, very simplistic but get's the job done.

Shelves for the litermeter iii master and slave

Master:

Slave (also can be used for the ATO UPLC II)

Thingiverse Master

Thingiverse Slave

 

[Palluk33]

Can a use PLA or only PETG ( reef save )

 

[Kyl]

Made these for a friend of mine, very simplistic but get's the job done.

Shelves for the litermeter iii master and slave

Master:

Slave (also can be used for the ATO UPLC II)

Thingiverse Master

Thingiverse Slave

Nice! I've gotten the most joy out of 3dprinting some of the simplest things you could think of. It's really a hobby that's made to compliment tons of other niche hobbies.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

Can a use PLA or only PETG ( reef save )

PETG is a pretty sure bet - its what we us to print all our parts that are designed for use in the water

However, some brands of PLA seem to have no issues. I've had PLA parts printed in eSun PLA Plus filament in my personal tank for more than year with no visible signs of any issues. Most of the PLA-Plus, -Pro filaments out there are usually blended with varying degrees of PETG or ABS

 

[Palluk33]

PETG is a pretty sure bet - its what we us to print all our parts that are designed for use in the water

However, some brands of PLA seem to have no issues. I've had PLA parts printed in eSun PLA Plus filament in my personal tank for more than year with no visible signs of any issues. Most of the PLA-Plus, -Pro filaments out there are usually blended with varying degrees of PETG or ABS

Can you send me some brands of PLA you are using and PETG I have Ender 3 pro printer I tried print PETG but no luck thx

 

[dantimdad]

OK - I'll go against the grain here - make a slight design change to the cup. Make the bottom more like a dome , flip the part over and print it with NO supports
it will be faster and you wont have to clean much up.

I bet that would work. Except I might try a cone on the bottom instead.

 

[dantimdad]

Can you send me some brands of PLA you are using and PETG I have Ender 3 pro printer I tried print PETG but no luck thx

I can tell you from using over a dozen rolls of it that HQA PETG is very easy to print on my three enders. Plus, the colors are just amazing.

If you buy two rolls at once on their site, shipping is free.

The also have partial rolls so you can test.

 

[Palluk33]

I can tell you from using over a dozen rolls of it that HQA PETG is very easy to print on my three enders. Plus, the colors are just amazing.

If you buy two rolls at once on their site, shipping is free.

The also have partial rolls so you can test.

Nice [emoji106] what brand of PLA ( reef save)

 

[dantimdad]

I use HQA PLA+ and Currently have a couple things in my sump that are 3D Solutech PLA.

 

[dantimdad]

Made these for a friend of mine, very simplistic but get's the job done.

Shelves for the litermeter iii master and slave

Master:

Slave (also can be used for the ATO UPLC II)

Thingiverse Master

Thingiverse Slave

Simple tends to be best! Nice job!

 

[biecacka]

Anyone built something to hang lights. I am in need of hanging 2 orpheks and looking for ideas....


Corey

 

[dantimdad]

I would be careful with that. Most filaments are not structural enough for it. Now, if you just built brackets and made the main structures out of aluminum, that would work.

I printed little corner brackets to hold aluminum channel in my floating canopy. I then screwed the lights to the channel.

 

[Palluk33]

I use HQA PLA+ and Currently have a couple things in my sump that are 3D Solutech PLA.

Can you share your Ender 3 PETG settings ?

 

[biecacka]

Good insight. I have no idea what I’m going to do so I’m just throwing ideas around. Thank you for that info though.
I’ll likely hang them from the ceiling in some fashion.

Corey

 

[dantimdad]

it would probably be similar to a colander - you know, the thing you drain your noodles with - LOL
I'll draw something up

I prefer to

Can you share your Ender 3 PETG settings ?

For the HQA it's

Standard bed 65/230
Glass bed 70/230

I use mainly .3mm layers on a .4mm nozzle
Speed is 70mm/sec most of the time but I have a ludicrous speed setup I use once in a while for terrible draft quality.

Hope this helps.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

I bet that would work. Except I might try a cone on the bottom instead.

here's rough idea. I think it would work, but the bottom of the cup may need just bit less round for it to print cleanly with no supports

 

[TheHarold]

here's rough idea. I think it would work, but the bottom of the cup may need just bit less round for it to print cleanly with no supports

Nice design- similar to how I print COR20 guards. Though I do put a single circle of support in the middle, just to keep it flat.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

Can you send me some brands of PLA you are using and PETG I have Ender 3 pro printer I tried print PETG but no luck thx

we pretty much exclusive us eSun filament. When we are printing in PLA, it's usually the PLA+ version

 

[Entz]

I have good luck with Amazons filament both PLA and black PETG but the only advantage to it is cheap shipping.

Regarding the cup. Just watch the dimensions if you do the tall version. I am not completely familiar with that 3D model but Red Seas original in a Red Sea sump doesn't leave a massive amount of room between it and the bottom of the sump. A couple of inches at most, so the "colander" would need to be fairly shallow. The short one would be fine though.

Regarding print settings, don't be afraid to fail and tweak. What works for someone might not work for you because of modifications. Mine isn't an Ender 3 (remixed Ender 3 Pro basically) but I found I need to print PETG slow. Max 40 and need 80/75 bed and 240 on the extruder.