3D Printing thread

[Palluk33]

You may simply be able to depress the quick connect an then pull the tube out. This does not always work though. If this is the case, the use a small wrench to unscrew the quick connect (like you did for the extruder). One of the wrenches they included in the spare parts bag should fit it.

then of course, it's "Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty". I always have to say that to myself in my head otherwise i try and turn it the wrong way - LOL

Ok I check everything this morning and no blocks
Start printing and 5 hours later this happened , same as always why is this happening?

 

[ss30]

Ok I check everything this morning and no blocks
Start printing and 5 hours later this happened , same as always why is this happening?

What material are you printing? And what brand of filament?

 

[Palluk33]

.

 

[Palluk33]

Enotepad PLA Filament from Amazon

 

[Palluk33]

Finally got my settings right

 

[Larry L]

Finally got my settings right

That looks really good! Where did you get the model for the calibration block?

 

[Ranjib]

Finally got my settings right

Superb

 

[Ranjib]

That looks really good! Where did you get the model for the calibration block?

*MICRO* All In One 3D printer test by majda107

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www.thingiverse.com

I found it while watching this:

 

[Entz]

Yup those are awesome I use the "mini" sized one (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295) all the time. He has a larger one as well https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594

 

[happysalt]

Hey Everyone,

IS something like this reef safe:



Looking to start getting into 3d printing for frag racks and other parts.. Don't want to spend a fortune on a printer though. How would this printer be for a beginner who would use it rarely:





Also, does anyone on here print their own frag plugs. I wonder if it would be more cost effective if you could pull it off. All comments and criticisms welcome!

 

[happysalt]

For some reason It wouldn't let me post the links apparently. Here are photos:

Wondering if that filament would be reef safe and if that printer would get the job done.

 

[dantimdad]

I would say yes to both although going with the pro 3 is not necessary for the cost difference. Get the standard 3.

 

[happysalt]

I would say yes to both although going with the pro 3 is not necessary for the cost difference. Get the standard 3.

Perfect. Yea so just the 3x right?

 

[dantimdad]

I use three of the standard ender 3 printers and love them. Yes, there are better printers out there but you have to triple the price IMO to do much better.

Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender DIY KITS

Buy the official Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer and enjoy a 1-year warranty and 14-day return.

creality3d.shop

 

[happysalt]

I use three of the standard ender 3 printers and love them. Yes, there are better printers out there but you have to triple the price IMO to do much better.

Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender DIY KITS

Buy the official Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer and enjoy a 1-year warranty and 14-day return.

creality3d.shop

Ok just the man I need to talk to. So how much desk space do you really need for this printer and how long would it take you to print something like a frag rack with it? I want to get into printing stuff like that for around my tank.

 

[dantimdad]

It all depends on print speed, resolution, size, infill, etc. You can print some in a couple hours. Some will take days.

Minimum 14*16 desk space but I use the side mount spool holders and let them hang off the side of the shelf unit.

I have found the filament doesn't tangle as bad and extrudes more accurately with the spools mounted as such.

 

[happysalt]

Ok, And when you are using magnets. Would you use magnets like this one or go stronger:

 

[dantimdad]

N52 get the coated ones.

 

[laverda]

That totally depends on what your using them for an the thickness of acrylic or glass. I would use much stronger ones myself.

 

[sfgabe]

For some reason It wouldn't let me post the links apparently. Here are photos:

Wondering if that filament would be reef safe and if that printer would get the job done.

I only use transparent PETG for anything that will be submerged. I've read that there's not a lot of info available on the substances used for coloring filament, so it can be a bit of a gamble. I was using a white ABS when I first started printing sump parts and had some die off, that was enough to scare me into switching. Since then I've had float brackets and some structural bits in both salt and freshwater tanks with the clear PETG for about 2 years now and they are holding up well.