I only use transparent PETG for anything that will be submerged. I've read that there's not a lot of info available on the substances used for coloring filament, so it can be a bit of a gamble. I was using a white ABS when I first started printing sump parts and had some die off, that was enough to scare me into switching. Since then I've had float brackets and some structural bits in both salt and freshwater tanks with the clear PETG for about 2 years now and they are holding up well.For some reason It wouldn't let me post the links apparently. Here are photos:
Wondering if that filament would be reef safe and if that printer would get the job done.
3D Printing thread
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Lord Nikon
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Hi,could you show the Link for this Part please?Made a reef link mount
I can't find it on thingiverse either. Unfortunately I just sold my reef link or I would design one quickly and post it on thingiverse for you.
If you want to give me dimensions I can make one off of those and hope for the best.
U
User1
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Hope for the best - when you think about it pretty much how Apollo 11 went, right :) That whole lift off / trip home part was a bit of an unknown...
You must've just watched the movie "first man" hehe.
I say that because when I made some prints for friends they would give me "eyeball" measurements and the print would be too sloppy or too tight. I like to have the part in front of me and use my digital caliper to take measurements, that way I know it'll fit.
Lord Nikon
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Lord Nikon
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Great,can you give the STL please?Printed out the MAD Rack on thingiverse and designed some simple legs for it. Pretty happy with the end product. Its also the first thing I've printed for the reef tank.
phasezero
New Member
Ya sure thing. I’ll upload a model to Thingiverse tomorrow and include some different lengths too so people have options. It’s just a hollow cylinder that press fits onto the existing pegs on the frag rack.
dantimdad
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So I got a polypropylene build plate a couple days ago. WOW! I love this thing.
I keeps prints stuck without any additives and prints just pop off once the bed temp drops below 45C.
Smooth as glass bottom of print as well.
I will be buying 2 more of these for my other printers as well.
I keeps prints stuck without any additives and prints just pop off once the bed temp drops below 45C.
Smooth as glass bottom of print as well.
I will be buying 2 more of these for my other printers as well.
ludnix
Valuable Member
Great timing in this advice, I forgot to spray my glass bed last night before printing. When I checked on the part this morning it was loose but had a chunk of my build plate attached to it!
ludnix
Valuable Member
Thanks again @dantimdad , I got the poly plate running and it's a really interesting material for a build plate. The version I ordered is oversized for my printer but I was able to work the material into something usable. I drilled a few recesses for my bed screw heads to hide in and trimmed down on side so I could continue using the clips I have. It feels like glass by the touch and is extremely hard. It is cuttable and drillable if you treat it like acrylic or other plastics and use a router or extremely high tooth count, as it won't allow for aggressive cuts.
Just like you described it has fantastic adhesion while warm and printing but once cooled the parts couldn't be easier to remove. I get a lovely matte finish that feels smooth but isn't so shiny.
Just like you described it has fantastic adhesion while warm and printing but once cooled the parts couldn't be easier to remove. I get a lovely matte finish that feels smooth but isn't so shiny.
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dantimdad
10K Club member
Thanks again @dantimdad , I got the poly plate running and it's a really interesting material for a build plate. The version I ordered is oversized for my printer but I was able to work the material into something usable. I drilled a few recesses for my bed screw heads to hide in and trimmed down on side so I could continue using the clips I have. It feels like glass by the touch and is extremely hard. It is cuttable and drillable if you treat it like acrylic or other plastics and use a router or extremely high tooth count, as it won't allow for aggressive cuts.
Just like you described it has fantastic adhesion while warm and printing but once cooled the parts couldn't be easier to remove. I get a lovely matte finish that feels smooth but isn't so shiny.
Wait until you try a Fulament spring steel bed!
I got mine last week and it's fantastic.
I am torn as to which one I like more.
But not having clips, I think, gives the spring steel the edge.
MaccaPopEye
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I wanted to get one but their shipping to Australia is $65USD on a $30USD item :o
dantimdad
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That really stinks!
ss30
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I bet you could get one on eBay
MaccaPopEye
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Not a Fulament branded one. I did look into some post forwarding services but shipping still ends up being more than the bed cover itself. While I want one, i don't want one that badly.
There is *some* magnetic spring steel beds on ebay, but most aren't designed for heat beds and the ones that claim they are say they can only tolerate a max temp of 80*C (so no ABS which is a deal breaker for me). There is also lots of reviews out there of people getting the ones from ebay that claim to tolerate up to 80*C max and while they do initially work, they de-magnetize fairly quickly due to the repeated exposure to even low level heat.
Fulament claim theirs can maintain its magnet at up to 130*C and I have seen a few good reviews backing it up. Still my glass plate works well, it's just a shame they haven't got reasonable international shipping.
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