Acclimating Acros with different Alk levels

[jtichenor]

I've been learning a ton about water chemistry and how to maintain an SPS dominant tank. I've been struggling with keeping acros alive for very long after adding to my tank even though existing coral do fine and my levels should be ok for acros (9.0 dkh, 475 Ca, 1300 Mg, P04 .08, N03 7). ICP test shows nothing significant. Then it hit me after reading about how sensitive some sps are to rapid changes in Alk. It turns out, my local fish stores all run their Alk at different levels (8.0 & 9.8). I was only dripping the acros for about an hr before running them in a dip and placing in my tank.

So how could I possibly acclimate an Acro with a 1.0 difference in Alk so that it doesn't get shocked and RTN?

 

[minus9]

There's no need for acclimation. In fact, prolonged acclimation may cause more issues than good. I've only ever dipped acropora (for pests) then simply put in display or QT. The process takes less than 15 minutes (depending on dip(s) used). Don't over think it. How old is the tank? Did you start off with dry rock?

 

[jtichenor]

There's no need for acclimation. In fact, prolonged acclimation may cause more issues than good. I've only ever dipped acropora (for pests) then simply put in display or QT. The process takes less than 15 minutes (depending on dip(s) used). Don't over think it. How old is the tank? Did you start off with dry rock?

I did start out with dry rock - about 5 yrs ago. It's been mostly a FOWLR & softies tank until I got proper lights about 8 months ago - a pair of Reefi Unos on this 48 x 18 x 24 tank.

 

[minus9]

I did start out with dry rock - about 5 yrs ago. It's been mostly a FOWLR & softies tank until I got proper lights about 8 months ago - a pair of Reefi Unos on this 48 x 18 x 24 tank.

What do you have for flow and what are the par levels where you have sps? 24” deep can be a challenge getting adequate par.

 

[homer1475]

Never acclimated SPS regardless of incoming water parameters.

Float bag for 10 minutes to equalize temps, dip in favorite dip, place in tank. Never have had an issue.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

What intensity are the unos set at?

 

[jtichenor]

That photo was taken at dusk.. I get 350 par @ 6" under and 200 in the center sand with lights at 70%.

 

[minus9]

What are you using for flow? Also, how long is your peak intensity? Are those par numbers where sps are mounted?

 

[adsf430]

I'm also curious since everything in my tank is fine except acros. I acclimate mine for 30min, then dip for 10...is that the issue?

 

[minus9]

I'm also curious since everything in my tank is fine except acros. I acclimate mine for 30min, then dip for 10...is that the issue?

So here's the easiest way to introduce sps to a tank. You'll need some fresh saltwater on hand to replace what's used for dipping. When you get home, place the bag(s) in the sump or display while you make the dip. I use 3 small tubs/containers and usually use 1 liter of tank water per container. 1st container will have your dip of choice as measured for 1 liter of water (or whatever amount you choose), frags go in the 1st dip for the suggested amount of time (use a timer), use a turkey baster to keep pushing water over the frags to blow away pests and keep water moving over the frags, when the time is up, move to the second container which has a second dip solution (if desired) or iodine, same procedure as the 1st dip, then the final rinse (in 3rd container) in tank water for 5 minutes, then put it in your tank and enjoy. I have never lost a frag to dipping. Check out Adam's dipping regime from @Battlecorals for the scorched earth dipping solution.

 

[jtichenor]

All good questions and suggestions. However, my main question and concern is how to deal with differences in Alk between the source water and tank. Does anyone even test the source water parameters upon arrival?

The more I learn about how sensitive Acros are to changes to parameters, especially Alk (even momentary), the more concerned I am about where I am getting the coral from and how to deal/manage with acros sourced from tanks with different parameters than mine. Seeing/hearing stories of how some mature acro colonies show tissue loss many days or weeks after a momentary variance in Alk in a mature tank leads me to strongly believe I will have a much greater chance of success with sourcing acros from tanks that have very similar parameters as mine.... unless someone can advise me how to acclimate to reduce chances of tissue necrosis or bleaching due to parameter changes.

 

[minus9]

All good questions and suggestions. However, my main question and concern is how to deal with differences in Alk between the source water and tank. Does anyone even test the source water parameters upon arrival?

The more I learn about how sensitive Acros are to changes to parameters, especially Alk (even momentary), the more concerned I am about where I am getting the coral from and how to deal/manage with acros sourced from tanks with different parameters than mine. Seeing/hearing stories of how some mature acro colonies show tissue loss many days or weeks after a momentary variance in Alk in a mature tank leads me to strongly believe I will have a much greater chance of success with sourcing acros from tanks that have very similar parameters as mine.... unless someone can advise me how to acclimate to reduce chances of tissue necrosis or bleaching due to parameter changes.

If the animal is stressed, either from shipping or coming from poor conditions, there could be issues, but if your tank's parameters are good, then you should be fine. Most issues come from wild or mari pieces and it's usually not alk that causes the problems, it's light, flow and nutrients. If a coral is captive raised and propagated, then it should be fully acclimated to life in our tanks, but some sps (and others) are sensitive no matter what we do. The sooner the animals are in optimal conditions, the better their chances are of thriving. Take gonis for instance. in the 90's and later, no one could keep these long term. Then we started to think about trace elements (mainly iron and manganese) and now these things go crazy (without supplemental feeding). We never really tested nutrients before and now we know better, plus bacteria is another factor.

 

[jtichenor]

If the animal is stressed, either from shipping or coming from poor conditions, there could be issues, but if your tank's parameters are good, then you should be fine. Most issues come from wild or mari pieces and it's usually not alk that causes the problems, it's light, flow and nutrients. If a coral is captive raised and propagated, then it should be fully acclimated to life in our tanks, but some sps (and others) are sensitive no matter what we do. The sooner the animals are in optimal conditions, the better their chances are of thriving. Take gonis for instance. in the 90's and later, no one could keep these long term. Then we started to think about trace elements (mainly iron and manganese) and now these things go crazy (without supplemental feeding). We never really tested nutrients before and now we know better, plus bacteria is another factor.

"Good" parameters are certainly not the only key to success with acros. I'm not the most experienced reefer out there but almost every source of education on sps (and more so with acros) says that in addition to good parameters, stability of parameters also plays a major part in keeping your corals happy.

I can almost guarantee that you put 10 successful reefers in a room and ask them where they keep their 'good' parameters at - you'll get 10 different answers. But they'll all say they keep those parameters very stable.

 

[homer1475]

I've bought corals from people who run at 10dkh, and 7 dkh, and everywhere in between. I do the above as posted, and have never had an issue when placed in my tank at 7.5dkh. If a coral is in relatively good health, and your tank is stable it will adapt.

 

[minus9]

"Good" parameters are certainly not the only key to success with acros. I'm not the most experienced reefer out there but almost every source of education on sps (and more so with acros) says that in addition to good parameters, stability of parameters also plays a major part in keeping your corals happy.

I can almost guarantee that you put 10 successful reefers in a room and ask them where they keep their 'good' parameters at - you'll get 10 different answers. But they'll all say they keep those parameters very stable.

I was assuming stability was part of the “good parameters” criteria, but thanks for clarifying for others. For those that have never uttered or seen the phrase, SPS; Stability Promotes Success.

 

[PNWReefer21]

I never alk acclimate acro or any corals. Just temp acclimate, dip and straight in. You could use the water in bag to dip as well.

 

[CaptPatrick]

I did start out with dry rock - about 5 yrs ago. It's been mostly a FOWLR & softies tank until I got proper lights about 8 months ago - a pair of Reefi Unos on this 48 x 18 x 24 tank.

What schedule are you running on your Unos?

 

[jtichenor]

What schedule are you running on your Unos?

Per light:
7:30 16w 15min ramp (7:45 will be 16w)
8:00 80w 60min ramp blues
9:00 121w 120min ramp peak w/ 30% whites
5:30pm 77w 60min ramp down
7:00pm 19w sunset 30min ramp down

 

[jda]

I have always found alk changes and swings to be the thing that gets blamed for unknown stuff when it matters very little... the SPS version of "I had lotion on my hands" or "the neighbor sprayed for weeds or bugs."

Healthy corals can handle this, no problem.

 

[Fourstars]

You are right to be concerned but SPS seem to be able to adapt well the higher alkalinity, it‘s the swing that will cause issues. So just monitor closely after new introduction to make sure you perimeters stay stable.