Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

There are MSDS sheets online that give you the information about the chemicals. Yes they can cause cancer. The vapors are heavier than air so the tend to collect at floor level and dissipate over time. The chemicals pass the skin barrier easily so keep it off your hands if possible. No problem using your basement....I would avoide the food prep areas myself.
 
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Thank you so much! The information in this thread was crucial for me to experiment with my first ever solvent welds, or proper plastic fabrication of any kind!

My experimentation has culminated to a 30g acrylic hexagon with a 6” diameter acrylic pipe welded into the center from top to bottom.

My local plastics shop laser cut a saw tooth weir pattern of my own design, plus six plumbing return holes (3DP hexagonal return manifold) .350 from the top of the pipe (top rim of pipe flush with top of tank, radius welded to top plate of tank).

Plus, a CNC routed .500 thick “ring” of 1/2” acrylic, I then sanded to a precise fit around the bottom of the 6” pipe. This “ring” turned out to be a fantastic “cheat code” to get a very solid water seal between base of pipe and base of tank.

They were not, however, confident in their ability to make a watertight weld between the base of my pipe, and bottom of my tank… that led me to this extremely useful forum!


I’ve installed 2X 3/4” bulkheads, 2X 1” bulkheads through the bottom of the tank, inside the 6” pipe, employing a herbie overflow, return, and accommodation to run lighting power through plumbing “conduit”, or to switch to a bean animal overflow.

All internal plumbing is clear sch.40 PVC, less SLA printed 6-port hexagonal return manifold, and ABS bulkheads (sch.80 bulkheads simply wouldn’t fit)…

The tank is built into a hexagonal coffee table of my own construction with a combination of load bearing lumber and steel. 20L sump inside table I slapped some glass baffles in, simple glass box ATO reservoir built into bottom of tabletop…


Just started cycling an hour ago… wish me luck!
 
Thank you so much! The information in this thread was crucial for me to experiment with my first ever solvent welds, or proper plastic fabrication of any kind!

My experimentation has culminated to a 30g acrylic hexagon with a 6” diameter acrylic pipe welded into the center from top to bottom.

My local plastics shop laser cut a saw tooth weir pattern of my own design, plus six plumbing return holes (3DP hexagonal return manifold) .350 from the top of the pipe (top rim of pipe flush with top of tank, radius welded to top plate of tank).

Plus, a CNC routed .500 thick “ring” of 1/2” acrylic, I then sanded to a precise fit around the bottom of the 6” pipe. This “ring” turned out to be a fantastic “cheat code” to get a very solid water seal between base of pipe and base of tank.

They were not, however, confident in their ability to make a watertight weld between the base of my pipe, and bottom of my tank… that led me to this extremely useful forum!


I’ve installed 2X 3/4” bulkheads, 2X 1” bulkheads through the bottom of the tank, inside the 6” pipe, employing a herbie overflow, return, and accommodation to run lighting power through plumbing “conduit”, or to switch to a bean animal overflow.

All internal plumbing is clear sch.40 PVC, less SLA printed 6-port hexagonal return manifold, and ABS bulkheads (sch.80 bulkheads simply wouldn’t fit)…

The tank is built into a hexagonal coffee table of my own construction with a combination of load bearing lumber and steel. 20L sump inside table I slapped some glass baffles in, simple glass box ATO reservoir built into bottom of tabletop…


Just started cycling an hour ago… wish me luck!
How about a picture of your handy work?
 

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How about a picture of your handy work?
I realized that I forgot to actually share proof that baby’s first watertight solvent weld was as claimed!
 

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Is "Solvent Welding (Capillary action)" good for 96x24x24 tank with 1 inch front and back and 3/4 inch the left/right panels?
If you have help sure! If not get some Weldon 40 or 42… I’ve done tanks that size by myself but it’s a real hassle and I’ve been doing it for years! If you’re new to this I wouldn’t reccomend it.
 
Just use pins method. The capillary action without pins is not good for pressure vessels. James with Envision Acrylics does solvent welds with pin/shim method up to 2" thick material. 40/42 is not necessary for 1"
 
@Troylee what kind of help?

Why weldon 40 or 42? With capillary method?
Gluing the joints and lifting and supporting the tank after you fill the joints with solvents.. 20ft of glue joint is very tricky by yourself. It’s all fine and dandy till you do the top and bottom..
 
Just use pins method. The capillary action without pins is not good for pressure vessels. James with Envision Acrylics does solvent welds with pin/shim method up to 2" thick material. 40/42 is not necessary for 1"
Just easier for a beginner! Like I said it can be done I’ve done it over and over but 20ft of glue joint for someone who doesn’t do it every day is a really big task to get it clean and perfect… if they get a dry joint it’s gonna be blocks and fillet welds and just unsightly to save the material.
 
What is the best cast acrylic brands? Do I need UV protection?

For 96x24x24 or 96x30x24 can bottom be 0.5 inch, frond and back 1 inch and the sides 0.75? Eurobrace also 0.5 inch.
 
What is the best cast acrylic brands? Do I need UV protection?

For 96x24x24 or 96x30x24 can bottom be 0.5 inch, frond and back 1 inch and the sides 0.75? Eurobrace also 0.5 inch.
I would recommend 3/4" for all surfaces minimum. I recommend a full top with routed out access openings. 1" all around is even better!

I am assuming the 30" is front to back measurements.

20241113_093503.jpg
 
For 1 inch acryl what is the max height with eurobrace?
 
For 1 inch acryl what is the max height with eurobrace?
Length and width all play into that! Including cross bracing on a euro or just a standard euro “ring” typically it’s around 30” but there’s variables mentioned above.
 
Length and width all play into that! Including cross bracing on a euro or just a standard euro “ring” typically it’s around 30” but there’s variables mentioned above.
36 wide, 29 deep and maximum height with eurobrace?

It can be less wide for more height.
 
What is everyone using for matts today. I have always used camper shell foam to decent results, but I built some new torsion style boxes that will stay completely flat. I put the foam on them like normal and am having a heck of a time with it. Hard to shim under, keep getting bubbles, etc. I think it is too soft, which makes it hard to push shims in.
 

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