Alternatives to Digital Aquatics Probes and Parts.

[DesertReefT4r]

That should work.

I hope so. If not I maybe looking for a used Apex classic.

 

[n2585722]

I hope so. If not I maybe looking for a used Apex classic.

One user had one drift 2 degrees. The only thing I can think of is the epoxy used to seal the thermistor in the stainless cap may have had a leak. I think they are sold in packages of 5. I have had one working for a while now. I have one that I added some tubing over the end with the wires to keep water away from the epoxy. I just have not got around to trying it out yet.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Does anyone know about repairs to a PC4. I remember someone way back posted about replacing the triac. I did a Google search with no luck.

I'm not aware of a thread of a Triac replacement in a ReefKeeper, but @Electrotech did a very nice write-up of Triac replacement in an Apex.

Repairing EB8 blown TRIAC

I did ask if the Reefkeeper would be similar in this thread and was told by Electrotech that he "imagine(s) it's pretty similar though, same general circuit design."

Haven't gotten around to fixing mine, so if you fix yours, please document.

 

[pickupman66]

Here is the insides if it helps. You can see the triacs here.

 

[dieselkeeper]

I looked into the problem some more. I only one outlet not working. After looking at it more closely, it's the outlet not the triac. It sparks when plugging something into that outlet. I guess salt creep got in it.

 

[n2585722]

The outlet can be replaced if a correct replacememt can be found. There should be some type of number on the old part. It would be a little harder to do than a triac though.

 

[dieselkeeper]

The outlet can be replaced if a correct replacememt can be found. There should be some type of number on the old part. It would ve a little harder to do than a triac though.

Yea, haven't figured out how to get at it.

 

[n2585722]

Yea, haven't figured out how to get at it.

I will see what I can come up with but it may require desoldering all the outlet connections on that circuit board to get at the outlet.

 

[pickupman66]

In my 3rd image above you can see the backs of the outlets

 

[Dgrieg02]

This is awesome. I wish I would had found this thread 2 months ago. The temp probe in my RKE crapped out. I tried looking for a replacement, no luck bought an apex. I love the look of the RKE, to me the apex looks like a toy. But it does the job well.

 

[steven87vt]

Ok I received all my parts to make a new Temp Probe. I found that the original NTC 10k that was mentioned in the above posts was no longer available. So I ordered a different type, still waterproof and NTC 10k 3950's. I also picked up the molex parts from digikey. I put it all together and plugged it into my SLX module (temp port) and have been monitoring it and my iTemp probe to see how it compares. So far it is right on track with my iTemp (after calibration of course). I have a feeling that the metal waterproof housing has made the thermistor less jumpy by buffering the fluctuation in temp from the currents. I have them both in the sump.

Probes: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185P4MVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Molex: I ordered black and red with the socket pre-crimped and then the 2 prong connector

• Black wire with socket: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=‎0430300001-12-B2-ND
  
• Red wire with socket: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=0430300001-12-B2-ND
• Connector: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=WM1845-ND

Good Luck

I ended up buying these and would not recommend doing that. The first one lasted maybe a month before it was reading something around 110 degrees in 79.9 degree water. Replaced the connector and made sure the leads were done well and even after recalibrating it's still 20 degrees off after a day or two.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074JBZ63Z?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

 

[n2585722]

I ended up buying these and would not recommend doing that. The first one lasted maybe a month before it was reading something around 110 degrees in 79.9 degree water. Replaced the connector and made sure the leads were done well and even after recalibrating it's still 20 degrees off after a day or two.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074JBZ63Z?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I think the water may be getting into the sensor somehow. I am using a stainless one I added tubing to the wire end to keep water from the epoxy. I have been using it for a few weeks now.

 

[DesertReefT4r]

I got my sensors, ordered 2 of the plastic white ones off amozon. I will wire it up on sunday and report back.

 

[Jason777]

I got my sensors, ordered 2 of the plastic white ones off amozon. I will wire it up on sunday and report back.

I have had good results so far with the plastic waterproof thermistors. The one on my AIO has been working for around 2 months and one on my DT for about 3 weeks.

 

[DesertReefT4r]

Ok so I have been running both my Itemp probe and the white plastic one from Amazon and watching the 2 for a few days. The replacement probe running on the SL1 port will drift -+ 4°f or so, it was worse the first day but seems to be settling down, I had tne same problem with the DA probe but it was way worse. Itemp has been stable and consistent even with the crack in the outer plastic case. I may have an issue with the temp port in the SL1. I wired a phone style plug onto the suspected bad DA probe and tried it in placemof the Itemp probe, does not work at all so there must be something different about the Itemp probe.

 

[n2585722]

Ok so I have been running both my Itemp probe and the white plastic one from Amazon and watching the 2 for a few days. The replacement probe running on the SL1 port will drift -+ 4°f or so, it was worse the first day but seems to be settling down, I had tne same problem with the DA probe but it was way worse. Itemp has been stable and consistent even with the crack in the outer plastic case. I may have an issue with the temp port in the SL1. I wired a phone style plug onto the suspected bad DA probe and tried it in placemof the Itemp probe, does not work at all so there must be something different about the Itemp probe.

The only difference is the connector. I have swapped them after changing the connector without any issues.

 

[DesertReefT4r]

The only difference is the connector. I have swapped them after changing the connector without any issues.

Ok then that probe is bad for sure, it was new, purchase from BRS mid 2018. I plugged it in after soldering on a plug from a donor cable, green internet router cable, and it displayed "error" of Itemp. So I can wire my second white temp sensor to the Itemp style plug and it will work like an Itemp probe? Why is there My Reef updates for the Itemp sensor?

 

[n2585722]

Ok then that probe is bad for sure, it was new, purchase from BRS mid 2018. I plugged it in after soldering on a plug from a donor cable, green internet router cable, and it displayed "error" of Itemp. So I can wire my second white temp sensor to the Itemp style plug and it will work like an Itemp probe? Why is there My Reef updates for the Itemp sensor?

The iTemp probe connects to a port in the RKL head unit via the buss. It uses two unused wires in the 6 wire buss. Make sure you use the correct wires or you can damage either the probe or modules on the buss. Some of the wires cary power.

 

[DesertReefT4r]

The iTemp probe connects to a port in the RKL head unit via the buss. It uses two unused wires in the 6 wire buss. Make sure you use the correct wires or you can damage either the probe or modules on the buss. Some of the wires cary power.

Yep I match up the wires to the Itemp probe I have and wired up the DA temp probe correctly I know that for sure. If I plug in the rewired probe Itemp on the display reads error, when this same probe was plugged into my SL1 the temp reading would jump all over the place.

 

[n2585722]

Yep I match up the wires to the Itemp probe I have and wired up the DA temp probe correctly I know that for sure. If I plug in the rewired probe Itemp on the display reads error, when this same probe was plugged into my SL1 the temp reading would jump all over the place.

If you have a multi meter you can check the probes. They should be close to 10k around 75 degrees if I remember correctly. A lower temp will increase resistance. A higher temp will decrease the resistance. A bad probe will usually be open or way off in resistance. If you need a closer value I can look it up when I get home tonight.