Another attempt at fixing Apex EB832

_AV · Apr 14, 2021

((FORDTECH)) said:
Thank you very much I will check that out. Desoldering and resoldering relay will be no big deal but I have no clue how to restore a burnt pad. Any info on doing this ?

Once you remove the relay and clean the solder, you'll be able to see what the other side looks like. From what you've posted above I'm guessing that the pad in the picture is completely gone. If that's the case, perhaps running a thick copper wire from the other side, through the hole and soldering it to the trace and then to the relay pin will provide a reasonable repair. The key is to pick a wire that has the conductivity equal or greater to that of the trace.
Oh, and the wire on the other side where it connects to the trace will have to be insulated with some conformal coating to avoid any shorts when it gets in contact with the bottom of the relay.

Kershaw · Apr 17, 2021

looking inside mine, one of the capacitors on the 12v power supply is swollen.
could that cause this flickering. is this what you meant by Click of death?

_AV · Apr 17, 2021

Kershaw said:
looking inside mine, one of the capacitors on the 12v power supply is swollen.
could that cause this flickering. is this what you meant by Click of death?

I can hear a very rapid clicking in your video. Assuming that the noise is coming from the EB832 and you see a bulged capacitor, chances are very excellent that the problem is indeed with the 12v PSU.

Kershaw · Apr 17, 2021

_AV said:
I can hear a very rapid clicking in your video. Assuming that the noise is coming from the EB832 and you see a bulged capacitor, chances are very excellent that the problem is indeed with the 12v PSU.

Yes the rapid clicking is the EB832.
thanks for your input. I will post my results once I locate the proper caps and replace them

Kershaw · Apr 19, 2021

@_AV i am having a hard time finding a site that has all capacitors in stock. shipping is pretty high on these items. the few sites that have them all have a min Order of 75 or more.
i am looking at attempting to replace the PSU with the meanwell version. it appears as though the old PSU is 5v and the new is 12V. if that's the case then i would need a IRM-5-5? i am aware it may not fit but looking at the old one VS IRM pin placement i may be willing to take the chance. could you please provide your Opinion on this mater?
thank you

_AV · Apr 19, 2021

Kershaw said:
@_AV i am having a hard time finding a site that has all capacitors in stock. shipping is pretty high on these items. the few sites that have them all have a min Order of 75 or more.
i am looking at attempting to replace the PSU with the meanwell version. it appears as though the old PSU is 5v and the new is 12V. if that's the case then i would need a IRM-5-5? i am aware it may not fit but looking at the old one VS IRM pin placement i may be willing to take the chance. could you please provide your Opinion on this mater?
thank you

It's actually a 12V PSU, not 5V. I corrected myself in a later post, but I can't edit the original unfortunately. So you can't use IRM-5-5 and need an IRM-5-12 instead. But those are out of stock everywhere. You can try the MPM-05-12 version of it instead, but (1) I don't know if it fits in original holes and (2) if it fits in the available space. You'd have to do your own measurements to confirm. Also, I do believe that replacing the entire PSU is not necessary as the new caps will make the original PSU strong enough to last for a very long time. But only the time will tell if. Meanwell PSUs are not without faults either.

Kershaw · Apr 19, 2021

_AV said:
It's actually a 12V PSU, not 5V. I corrected myself in a later post, but I can't edit the original unfortunately. So you can't use IRM-5-5 and need an IRM-5-12 instead. But those are out of stock everywhere. You can try the MPM-05-12 version of it instead, but (1) I don't know if it fits in original holes and (2) if it fits in the available space. You'd have to do your own measurements to confirm. Also, I do believe that replacing the entire PSU is not necessary as the new caps will make the original PSU strong enough to last for a very long time. But only the time will tell if. Meanwell PSUs are not without faults either.

thank you for Reply i want to replace caps but i cant find any with out paying 30+ for shipping between two sites. ill keep looking and intend to buy a few extra to help local reefers out they may need it

Kershaw · Apr 19, 2021

May not have been gentle enough.... hope it’s savable.

Kershaw · Apr 19, 2021

Confirmed the 470uf25v is well below it’s rated uF. I removed all 3 and 2 of 3 check out as good. And the swollen cap is the one in picture.

_AV · Apr 20, 2021

Looks like you are on the right track. The lifted trace is on the AC side, make sure you repair it safely.

_AV · Apr 20, 2021

The FixReef Youtube channel is now officially live!

Here's the video of the EB832 12v PSU repair, enjoy.
Please like and subscribe to help motivate me to work on other videos

Reefer Reboot · Apr 20, 2021

Thanks, very handy reference video!

laverda · Apr 20, 2021

Great how to. What do you use to clean the PCB?

_AV · Apr 20, 2021

Reefer Reboot said:
Thanks, very handy reference video!

Thank you. It would be great if the mods could add the video link to the first post in this thread.

laverda said:
Great how to. What do you use to clean the PCB?

Thanks, guys!
I always use 99% isopropyl alcohol for manual cleaning and rinsing. Thankfully, the prices started to come down this year as it's becoming more available.

((FORDTECH)) · Apr 20, 2021

_AV said:
Thank you. It would be great if the mods could add the video link to the first post in this thread.

Cant you do this yourself by just clicking the edit post button?

Reefer Reboot · Apr 20, 2021

Unfortunately, OP is not a Partner/Supporter with unlimited editing. I vote that for something as useful as his fixit inputs he should get an honorary membership.

If that can't happen then hey #MODS, can we get this added to the first post please?

((FORDTECH)) · Apr 20, 2021

Reefer Reboot said:
Unfortunately, OP is not a Partner/Supporter with unlimited editing. I vote that for something as useful as his fixit inputs he should get an honorary membership. If that can't happen then hey #MODS, can we get this added to the first post please?

Didn’t realize that was one of the perks

((FORDTECH)) · Apr 20, 2021

_AV said:
Once you remove the relay and clean the solder, you'll be able to see what the other side looks like. From what you've posted above I'm guessing that the pad in the picture is completely gone. If that's the case, perhaps running a thick copper wire from the other side, through the hole and soldering it to the trace and then to the relay pin will provide a reasonable repair. The key is to pick a wire that has the conductivity equal or greater to that of the trace.
Oh, and the wire on the other side where it connects to the trace will have to be insulated with some conformal coating to avoid any shorts when it gets in contact with the bottom of the relay.

Finally got around to doing the repair. Was little confused at first about what you meant but I think I got it. pads were totally burnt. Had to run a jumper At least I hope I got what you meant

either way thank you very much for your help. well wish me luck hope it’s fixed lol