Another Dinoflagellates Experiment

bvanfish

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Have you dosed silicates? Did you stop water changes for a month or more? Dosing live phyto 1-2x a day? Pods every week or two? Not cleaning of glass or anything?
 
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ggNoRe

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Have you dosed silicates? Did you stop water changes for a month or more? Dosing live phyto 1-2x a day? Pods every week or two? Not cleaning of glass or anything?
I did dose a ridiculous amount of silicates. Haven't done a water change in about a month. I did dose pods and phytoplankton in abundance both algaebarns and jaysreefbugs. I have been cleaning the glass, rocks, and sand constantly.
 

bvanfish

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I’ve heard cleaning things can go the wrong way.

my steps, take it as you will but I’m looking to be turning the corner

temp 78.8
turn off all whites red and greens
Block all outside light from getting into the room your tank is in
Drop photo period to 8 hours
Reduce intensity of lights
Get 10 nitrate .1 phos or 20 and .2 of
Dose silicates (a lot) I was doing smaller bits daily and changed to large amounts 1x week (I mix it with rodi and then I use a long pipette and pipe it right to the sand where there’s any spots no pumps for 30 mins)
Dosing different types of live phyto 1-2x a day
Adding pods 1x every other week about
No water change for 5 weeks
No glass cleaning for 5 weeks
Only changed floss when it stopped running through
Dosing 1 cap of MB7 right at light or sometimes 2 caps

this has gotten me to the point of white sand with just diatom dust a bit and no more bubbles being released up or on rocks. Did a water change a week ago and no real resurgence. Doing another tomorrow. Only have cleaned 1 pane of glass.

I did not blow off anything, use any chemicals, or mess with the sand bed at all!
 

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Sustained day and night?

I think I had some LCA on my sandbed (not scoped, simply image comparison) and I just got rid of it I think (90% gone). I did 3 things differently than normal for effect. Focused on ph (ran skimmer line outside) ph night and day 8.2 on rs kit. Raised the temp to 80 (iffy on this). Finally I simply blocked light on problem areas w cardboard on my top to make shade over the bad spots. It's been about 6 days and they're almost gone. Amphidinium I read can use carbon dioxide so sustained ph up was big I think. Well see how the it plays out still...
 

stoney7713

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I did dose a ridiculous amount of silicates. Haven't done a water change in about a month. I did dose pods and phytoplankton in abundance both algaebarns and jaysreefbugs. I have been cleaning the glass, rocks, and sand constantly.
I did those too but did not add silicates.
May I suggest, if your open to it, trying this?

Thread 'Dinoflagelates. A disruptive treatment' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagelates-a-disruptive-treatment.926454/

I also raised the temp to 81 and dosed almost 1ml/10g MB7 every night. Along with the carbon. I got my nutrients to about 10-20 nitrates and about .1 phosphate before starting. Left my lights low for 2 weeks of the treatment and slowly raised them back to full.

My tank was mostly sterile rock, seeded with about 15% LR.
 
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ggNoRe

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I did those too but did not add silicates.
May I suggest, if your open to it, trying this?

Thread 'Dinoflagelates. A disruptive treatment' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagelates-a-disruptive-treatment.926454/

I also raised the temp to 81 and dosed almost 1ml/10g MB7 every night. Along with the carbon. I got my nutrients to about 10-20 nitrates and about .1 phosphate before starting. Left my lights low for 2 weeks of the treatment and slowly raised them back to full.

My tank was mostly sterile rock, seeded with about 15% LR.
I tried this for 2 weeks before starting this thread.
 
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ggNoRe

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Sustained day and night?

I think I had some LCA on my sandbed (not scoped, simply image comparison) and I just got rid of it I think (90% gone). I did 3 things differently than normal for effect. Focused on ph (ran skimmer line outside) ph night and day 8.2 on rs kit. Raised the temp to 80 (iffy on this). Finally I simply blocked light on problem areas w cardboard on my top to make shade over the bad spots. It's been about 6 days and they're almost gone. Amphidinium I read can use carbon dioxide so sustained ph up was big I think. Well see how the it plays out still...
Ph varies from about 8.25 - 8.4
 

Court_Appointed_Hypeman

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Following along.

More people should do this kind of posting on their day to day struggle with dinos.

Ive been dosing silicate, phyto, bacteria, phos and nitrates every day. Seems to be working. Also stopped dosing traces and doing water changes.

It recently disappeared from the sandbed on its own. It grows much slower everywhere else.

I have been alternating dr tims eco balance and microbacter7, 10mls for the daily dose in my 75g. Dosing about 15mls of neophos and 5ml neo nitro just to maintain .04 and 6ppm.

Uv on when loghts out, filter sock changed daily. Skimmer only off for 4 hours after dosing phyto and bacteria. I kick up my return pump that normally runs at 60% during the day to 80% for a few hours after I scrub, seems to help.

If had to manually brush all of the surfaces, it does not seem to go away on its own. No idea how on earth it suddenly left the sand bed. Mine does not go into the water column on its own, takes some rough brushing to get it there.

My tank is only 5 months old, and my dinos came 6 weeks in.
 
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ggNoRe

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I’ve heard cleaning things can go the wrong way.

my steps, take it as you will but I’m looking to be turning the corner

temp 78.8
turn off all whites red and greens
Block all outside light from getting into the room your tank is in
Drop photo period to 8 hours
Reduce intensity of lights
Get 10 nitrate .1 phos or 20 and .2 of
Dose silicates (a lot) I was doing smaller bits daily and changed to large amounts 1x week (I mix it with rodi and then I use a long pipette and pipe it right to the sand where there’s any spots no pumps for 30 mins)
Dosing different types of live phyto 1-2x a day
Adding pods 1x every other week about
No water change for 5 weeks
No glass cleaning for 5 weeks
Only changed floss when it stopped running through
Dosing 1 cap of MB7 right at light or sometimes 2 caps

this has gotten me to the point of white sand with just diatom dust a bit and no more bubbles being released up or on rocks. Did a water change a week ago and no real resurgence. Doing another tomorrow. Only have cleaned 1 pane of glass.

I did not blow off anything, use any chemicals, or mess with the sand bed at all!
This is essentially what I'm going to try this time around. Stop basting sand and rocked every night, which is something I've been doing for about a month now. I plan to still dose some MB7 in the mornings just not too much to tank my nutrients. Iffy on the glass cleaning not sure if I have the willpower for that lol.
 
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ggNoRe

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Following along.

More people should do this kind of posting on their day to day struggle with dinos.

Ive been dosing silicate, phyto, bacteria, phos and nitrates every day. Seems to be working. Also stopped dosing traces and doing water changes.

It recently disappeared from the sandbed on its own. It grows much slower everywhere else.

I have been alternating dr tims eco balance and microbacter7, 10mls for the daily dose in my 75g. Dosing about 15mls of neophos and 5ml neo nitro just to maintain .04 and 6ppm.

Uv on when loghts out, filter sock changed daily. Skimmer only off for 4 hours after dosing phyto and bacteria. I kick up my return pump that normally runs at 60% during the day to 80% for a few hours after I scrub, seems to help.

If had to manually brush all of the surfaces, it does not seem to go away on its own. No idea how on earth it suddenly left the sand bed. Mine does not go into the water column on its own, takes some rough brushing to get it there.

My tank is only 5 months old, and my dinos came 6 weeks in.
Logically this plan seems ideal but everytime I get my lights back to full power BAM their back. I will mention that even though I did dose nitrates and phosphates periodically I was not consistent with it and they bottomed out a few times. With that being said this time around I'm going to try and let them raise naturally a bit by not dosing any carbon. I have been carbon dosing for several weeks now consistently. My hypothesis is by constantly fluctuating no3 and po4 by unnatural means this may be working against me. Basically I'm trying Julian Spungs ideology of the dinoflagellates are getting out of control due to things getting out of balance and they will eventually solve themselves through stability and patience.
 

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Ph varies from about 8.25 - 8.4
That's good. Often ph dips at night which increases carbon dioxide and perhaps sustains while lights are off. It sounds crazy but little cut up pieces of cardboard that just blocked bad spots (and let corals get full light) I believe weakens them and then the lack of carbon dioxide does so further

I believe this came about after I removed a rock from the sandbed and a void was left...
 

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I failed to mention, i forgot about this. My LFS had some live rock come in that was absolutely covered in a ton of algaes, pods, featherdusters. I was affraid to get it for the last month its been in their tanks because I am sure not everything on it is good, but on impulse, i bought it 6 days ago, 8lb big thing that has tons of networks of holes in it.

I was getting woried thay I did not have enough bio diversity, the liverock I had I think just came from tanks at an lfs curing, and not at all from the ocean.

This thing, def came from the ocean, it was absolutely loaded.

I think, it might be why, my sand bed is cleaned up.
 

Court_Appointed_Hypeman

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Logically this plan seems ideal but everytime I get my lights back to full power BAM their back. I will mention that even though I did dose nitrates and phosphates periodically I was not consistent with it and they bottomed out a few times. With that being said this time around I'm going to try and let them raise naturally a bit by not dosing any carbon. I have been carbon dosing for several weeks now consistently. My hypothesis is by constantly fluctuating no3 and po4 by unnatural means this may be working against me.
I haven't cut my lights because I have a 4bulb t5 ficture, i cut the photo period to 6 from 12 for a few days, then back up to 8 because I need some algae to grow. I've been back up to 10 hours for a few weeks now after it stopped coming back so aggressively.

I've been seriously thinking of getting an oxydator. One of those h2o2 reactors. Too scared to straight dose h2o2 directly to the tank.

I was really considering carbon dosing, but i have nutrient problems as it is because I refuse to do the smart thing and reduce my chaeto light or harvest any.
 
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ggNoRe

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That's good. Often ph dips at night which increases carbon dioxide and perhaps sustains while lights are off. It sounds crazy but little cut up pieces of cardboard that just blocked bad spots (and let corals get full light) I believe weakens them and then the lack of carbon dioxide does so further

I believe this came about after I removed a rock from the sandbed and a void was left...
This makes sense. My wife threw a big fit last time I closed our curtains over the windows for a couple weeks so not going there again. And honestly too lazy to run an airline tube outside. I did this my first bout with dinos doing Elegant Corals Dinoflagellates Regimen. Those steps may come next if this doesn't work. Lol
 

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I just want to add that maybe my bloom would have burned itself out naturally by itself as well. Each bloom should have an end life as long as efforts are made to counter and not promote imo; just trying to add some info.
 
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ggNoRe

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I haven't cut my lights because I have a 4bulb t5 ficture, i cut the photo period to 6 from 12 for a few days, then back up to 8 because I need some algae to grow. I've been back up to 10 hours for a few weeks now after it stopped coming back so aggressively.

I've been seriously thinking of getting an oxydator. One of those h2o2 reactors. Too scared to straight dose h2o2 directly to the tank.

I was really considering carbon dosing, but i have nutrient problems as it is because I refuse to do the smart thing and reduce my chaeto light or harvest any.
I also find the oxydators very intriguing. I felt the same way about peroxide but this time around I said screw it and gave it a shot. I have not seen any negative effects. In fact just dosing that at night and bacteria in the morning seemed to be working really well in my nano tank for a while.

If I see the opportunity to score some good media from an established tank I definitely will. I keep my refugium light on for a good 16hrs but all it grows is massive amounts of GHA. The chaeto that's in there never seems to die or grow.
 

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This makes sense. My wife threw a big fit last time I closed our curtains over the windows for a couple weeks so not going there again. And honestly too lazy to run an airline tube outside. I did this my first bout with dinos doing Elegant Corals Dinoflagellates Regimen. Those steps may come next if this doesn't work. Lol
I hear that. Maybe try some kalkwasser as it should have the same effect. Just an idea. Ph would benefit the rest of the reef as well. I'm drawn to those types of solutions first at least

But if your 8.2-8.4 without dipping idk that this is your issue. Focus on light perhaps. My issue with lowering photo periods/spectrum is that your corals suffer as well. Not to sound like a broken record but strategically placed items to block light can let corals thrive so there's no slowdown on thier growth firther tilting the scales toward them. This is just in my mind tho
 
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ggNoRe

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I just want to add that maybe my bloom would have burned itself out naturally by itself as well. Each bloom should have an end life as long as efforts are made to counter and not promote imo; just trying to add some info.
I really appreciate all the feedback from everyone. Dinos has been plaguing the hobby for years. It would be great if we could make advances in combatting them.
 

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