Another JBJ 45 build!

[Maacc]

It's about time to upgrade my return pumps. Asking for suggestions.

Syncra silent 2 would work. I have a a jebao DCT 6000 but it is super overkill, never run it above 30%.

 

[Reef man 89]

i have the reef keeper light plus. It has been up and running for about 2 weeks now i have the tunze9004 skimmer not sure if i like it or not still waiting for it to finish breaking in so i can't really comment on how well it works just yet. I already have fish and coral in mine but i used cycled rock sand and water from my old setup so that facilitated things

I have the 9004 skimmer and love it

 

[Bob Escher]

Also, I noticed 3, ~ 1/4" holes in the acrylic back that divides the display from back of the tank, a couple inches up from the bottom. I've found little info on these, aside from their purpose being to avoid running the pumps dry. Seems to me, however, that these would cause an equal water height between the display and all columns of the back, back the chambers and baffles pointless. I don't see how water would flow correctly, or at all, with these holes there. I'll have the ATO, so I'll probably be plugging then somehow. What did you do?

They also equalize the water level when you do a water change so occasionaly you will need to clean the back area out

 

[Bob Escher]

dont plug them they do not effect the water level in the rear. your build is basically my build exactly except i have an aquarium controller

They do affect the water level. I've had mine for over a year and if you do any type of water change the level in the back will be the same.
I converted my tank to have a sump inside the stand. I use a curve5 Skimmer and a waveline D.C. Pump controlled by my APEX

See my videos on how I did it

I'm also thinking of removing my back false wall completely

 

[Doob]

Syncra silent 2 would work. I have a a jebao DCT 6000 but it is super overkill, never run it above 30%.

Thanks, I was leaning towards that one. The original plan from last year was the tunze 1073 from marine depots video, but that's an expensive pump and probably over kill as well.

 

[Bob Escher]

I would not think of the 2.0
1. If you ever upgrade anything or if you convert your tank to have a sump it won't be enough
2. Although I believe the 2.0 is rated at about 600 your going to want to run it less than max, quieter and less wear and tear

 

[Tahoe61]

Thanks, I was leaning towards that one. The original plan from last year was the tunze 1073 from marine depots video, but that's an expensive pump and probably over kill as well.

I have two cobolt 1200 in the back. I WILL be upgrading to the Tunze 1073 in the future. The one issue I have with this tank is the turn over from sump to display. You can control gph and adjust directional flow.

What ATO are you using?

The tank is looking great. :-)

 

[Bob Escher]

I have two cobolt 1200 in the back. I WILL be upgrading to the Tunze 1073 in the future. The one issue I have with this tank is the turn over from sump to display. You can control gph and adjust directional flow.

What ATO are you using?

The tank is looking great. :)

Are you talking to me Tahoe? With my sump in the stand I lowered my GOH on my Waveline from roughly 600 to about 300 GPH and everything seems to like it a lot. A lot of people said you really do t need the ten times per hour turnover with wavemakers ( I have two vortech MP10's on the JBJ
I'm thinking of removing the back panel completely to free up that back room as it not really doing anything except holding matrix and purigen which I can replace with more live rock and put the purigen down in the sump

 

[Tahoe61]

Are you talking to me Tahoe? With my sump in the stand I lowered my GOH on my Waveline from roughly 600 to about 300 GPH and everything seems to like it a lot. A lot of people said you really do t need the ten times per hour turnover with wavemakers ( I have two vortech MP10's on the JBJ
I'm thinking of removing the back panel completely to free up that back room as it not really doing anything except holding matrix and purigen which I can replace with more live rock and put the purigen down in the sump

Actually anyone with the same system.

I have one MP10QD and the Tunze Nanostream 6040, it took me awhile to position them for the right directional flow (ahhh the pleasures of a smaller tank).

I feel conflicted about removing the back panel, the problems with this tank is that the water level in the back is too high for optimal gas exchange over the baffles, and lower the water level lends to decreased water volume and more tank noise.

I recently treated for cyanobacteria and added a simple pump and large air stone to the back compartment and the corals responded favorably. A skimmer probably provides the same type of oxygenation as the air stone. I am down two skimmers in a year, a Tunze and IM Ghost.

And down one ATO the Tunze, so I just added the SmartATO, so I am curious what everyone is using in the ATO department.

 

[Bob Escher]

Actually anyone with the same system.

I have one MP10QD and the Tunze Nanostream 6040, it took me awhile to position them for the right directional flow (ahhh the pleasures of a smaller tank).

I feel conflicted about removing the back panel, the problems with this tank is that the water level in the back is too high for optimal gas exchange over the baffles, and lower the water level lends to decreased water volume and more tank noise.

I recently treated for cyanobacteria and added a simple pump and large air stone to the back compartment and the corals responded favorably. A skimmer probably provides the same type of oxygenation as the air stone. I am down two skimmers in a year, a Tunze and IM Ghost.

And down one ATO the Tunze, so I just added the SmartATO, so I am curious what everyone is using in the ATO department.

The water level in the back is at the same level as it is in front it's equalized unless you glued up the two bottom holes in the false back. I'm going to remove the baffles and everything that's in the back area.
As this moment I do have a Tunze pump moving water back there but since I have the sump why not.
I'm running a bubble magus curve 5 for my skimmer. It's a little oversized for the tank and sump but has been working great.

 

[Doob]

I have two cobolt 1200 in the back. I WILL be upgrading to the Tunze 1073 in the future. The one issue I have with this tank is the turn over from sump to display. You can control gph and adjust directional flow.

What ATO are you using?

The tank is looking great. :-)

Thanks!

I'm using the smart ATO micro by auto aqua. I highly recommend it.

Do you mean you're unhappy with the turnover from sump to display? I feel the same, I have the aqua max hob-1 and a gfo reactor in the back, but I don't feel they're working as efficiently as they could be because of the low turnover rate.

 

[Doob]

I would not think of the 2.0
1. If you ever upgrade anything or if you convert your tank to have a sump it won't be enough
2. Although I believe the 2.0 is rated at about 600 your going to want to run it less than max, quieter and less wear and tear

I'm never going to convert this tank. If I want to upgrade one day I'll do the tanks and all.

It's rated for almost 600gph, but considering a foot of head pressure + 2 elbows, I'll probably get around 400. As I stated to Tahoe, i think my tank would benefit by more than a 10x turnover. I don't plan on blasting corals or anything with the flow, of course.

 

[Doob]

Ordered the sicce 2.0.

How does everyone clean new pumps?

I plan on using one of the old return pumps on a gfo reactor that recently had a pump go out. Ordered a 2 little fishies ball valve to regulate flow, shouldn't hurt the pump to restrict output, right?

 

[Doob]

Happy 1st birthday!!

Sicce pump installed, display water level is about 1/4" higher. Gfo reactor is back up and running.

 

[Jon Gracey]

Things look great and awesome job dealing with the GHA. I enjoyed reading about your progress and I am very impressed with where things go from here. Just for my own knowledge, what’s your stocking and what was your reasoning for it? I’m working on my “final” list and trying to get others to chime in. I can’t wait to build my stand and get thins dang thing running.

 

[Doob]

Things look great and awesome job dealing with the GHA. I enjoyed reading about your progress and I am very impressed with where things go from here. Just for my own knowledge, what’s your stocking and what was your reasoning for it? I’m working on my “final” list and trying to get others to chime in. I can’t wait to build my stand and get thins dang thing running.

Thanks! My stock list is:
Pair of mocha clownfish
Yellow watchman goby and tiger pistol shrimp pair
Six line wrasse
Red fire shrimp.

I didn't plan my stock really. I had the fire shrimp from my 1st tank, a 10 gallon. I got a clownfish pair after visiting a hatchery, and I've always appreciated 6 lines. I have always planned to keep it light, I don't plan on adding any more fish.

 

[Doob]

Giving this a shot.

After getting a salifert phosphate test and learning my phosphates are .015ppm, decided chaeto would be a better use.

Unfortunately the LFS only had caulerpa. Within an hour my tank was cloudy from spores. So that's in the trash. Someone send me some chaeto!

In other news, I've started using kalkwasser to maintain levels.

 

[NY_Caveman]

@Doob nice build thread. Love your setup and aquascape. I was curious, how many pounds of rock is in there? Anything else like Marine Pure or Siporax? I may have missed it reading through the thread. I am planning a build with the same tank at the moment. Thanks!

 

[Bob Escher]

Also, I noticed 3, ~ 1/4" holes in the acrylic back that divides the display from back of the tank, a couple inches up from the bottom. I've found little info on these, aside from their purpose being to avoid running the pumps dry. Seems to me, however, that these would cause an equal water height between the display and all columns of the back, back the chambers and baffles pointless. I don't see how water would flow correctly, or at all, with these holes there. I'll have the ATO, so I'll probably be plugging then somehow. What did you do?

They are supposedly to equalize the pressure between the dividers

 

[Bob Escher]

The RMS mount for the radion does not hold the light level with the tank. I've considered shimming it, but the more I think about it the more it bothers me. This is not some cheap mount for some cheap light, this is a $90 mount for a top of the line light. Research shows that this is a common problem, Ecotech's care level seems to be minimum though, it's very disappointing.

I think mine dies a good job