Anyone good with pool pumps?

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I’m trying to save $500. Will the pump in the Facebook ad replace the one that is keeping my neighbors awake at night?

 

[Fish Fan]

I have a modest above ground pool, and though I'm not expert, I've never seen a pool filter driven by a motor like that. Mine is just a giant water pump, and so is my neighbor's pump who has an unground pool.

What are the specs of the current motor (I'm assuming the one in the video)? How does that spindle connect to an impeller to drive the water?

Sorry I'm not more help, maybe someone else has seen those motor pumps before

 

[exnisstech]

I can't say that pump will work but I replaced the motor on our hayward sand filter once. I just compared specs and shaft size. The pump / motor is pretty much like my reeflo pumps.

 

[UncommonSense]

as stated above, you will need to compare motor flange bolt pattern/thread pitch, shaft diameter/length, keyway dimensions, and motor RPM to determine if this is a direct replacement, of if an adapter plate and/or drive adapter would be required!

 

[BeanAnimal]

RPM and shaft size must match, as well as frame style, or the volute will not fit or bolt on. Power should be similar or larger.

Please show nameplate from existing motor

 

[BeanAnimal]

Also that is outdoor, so motor type matters also. Type CX is typical of spa and pool motors (drip proof)

 

[BoonieMoe]

I’m trying to save $500. Will the pump in the Facebook ad replace the one that is keeping my neighbors awake at night?

Not familiar with pool pumps but man that looks just like most AC unit blower motors. I’d shop that data tag around your local hvac parts houses

 

[BoonieMoe]

I’m trying to save $500. Will the pump in the Facebook ad replace the one that is keeping my neighbors awake at night?

Not familiar with pool pumps but man that looks just like most AC unit blower motors. I’d shop that data tag around your local hvac parts houses

If you have a grainger in your area id start there

 

[jsmkmavity]

What about the current pump is keeping your neighbors up? Are the bearings noisy or something else? Are you sure the wet side isnt the noisy part? If the current motor has a capacitor i would test it before replacing the motor. It will need a test meter with a setting for "mfd" or "capacitor" or some have a setting like "uf" but with a long tail on the u. If doing it yourself make sure to shut the power off at the breaker AND then test to make sure at the motor. Do not touch the capacitor wire connections until it has been discharged, or better yet not at all if you have insulated pliers to remove the connectors before testing the capacitor. The capacitor will have a label stating how many mfd it is. The label is often covered by the bracket that holds it in place.
If you arent familiar with electrical testing and safety please find someone who is.

 

[Privateye]

As mentioned, you'll want to match the electrical specs (voltage, phase, amps, frequency should be 60 Hz, etc.) and the mounting dimensions.

Take a photo of the label on the current pump and see if you can order the exact same model number. That's often the easiest way to ensure a good match. The company that makes the wet end of the pump isn't the company that makes the motors, so they may be available from multiple sources.

A local motor repair shop could be an option too. Sounds like it needs new bearings.

Replacing the whole pump would be the simplest route, but the most expensive. If you don't feel comfortable replacing a motor I'd replace the pump, or go with a motor repair shop. The new motor won't come with a power cord so you'll need to add your existing one or a new one.

I worked for Pentair for years, and the pool pumps are basically the same as the aquaculture pumps. The pool ones are just NSF rated for pool use, and the aquaculture models have stainless steel wetted metal parts instead of brass. Other brands that service both industries do the same thing with their pumps.

It's not worth looking at the capacitor IMO. If that's going bad your motor won't start reliably (maybe if you hit it though). Typically you'll hear a "hum" when that happens. If the motor starts fine then I wouldn't go in that direction.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I run my pool 365 days a year. We are about to enter some extreme cold temps for a while. I’m sure it’s the pump, this is my 4th one, they all seem to do this, the bearings or the piece of round metal (name escapes me) that the rod runs through mucks up. I kicked it and it silenced some, the noise you hear is after I kicked it. I figure kicking is an appropriate testing technique. Normally, I wouldn’t care, the neighbor it faces I don’t get along with. However, you can hear it 3 houses away. For obvious reason I don’t want to shut it off. I pushed the plate of mine and the other one into Chst GPT:

 

[Privateye]

The easiest place to start would be to contact the manufacturer of your pump and ask for a quote/model/etc. for the replacement motor. The manufacturer will be able to tell you if it's obsolete, but usually if they can't replace the exact same model of motor, they offer a suitable alternative. You can let them do the work to ID it at least. I'm guessing it's a Hayward? Pentair doesn't use square strainer baskets. Either way, the information you're looking for will be on the wet end of the pump. The motor specs won't tell the pump manufacturer anything (they could even use the same motor for multiple pumps).

Including the information for your pump in your search could help a lot.

If it's a Hayward and you're getting noise like that every couple of years, I'd look into the pump/system sizing. Pentair has them beat on sand filters, but Hayward makes some good pumps. We use them with saltwater here and they run for years without issues. Regarding sizing, if the pump doesn't have enough pressure to push against on the discharge side, the bearings can wear prematurely. Pumps need to push against some pressure (NOT PULL) in order to keep the motors happy long-term. Don't restrict a water pump on the intake though. That can cause cavitation, which can also damage the bearings, impeller, and diffuser.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I’ll get a clear pic before I leave for work in the AM. Lots of great information. I’m reply more in the AM also. Thanks guys!

 

[jsmkmavity]

If it were a bushing instead of a bearing it should have a lubrication port to add oil every 6 months.

 

[jsmkmavity]

Typically a properly sized and correct type of motor wouldn't need replaced every 2 years. I am not a pool pump expert by any means but have general knowledge and experience with smaller horsepower motors. Sounds like @Privateye has some good advise.

 

[underwood]

Unfortunately, I have way too much experience with this particular issue. The bearings in your pool pump's motor are on their way out. You have two options: pull the motor and replace the bearings or simply replace the motor.

Replacing the bearings is a more labor-intensive and messy job. Their are videos on YouTube that will walk you through step-by-step.

Replacing the motor is less work but you'll spend a couple hundred on the new motor. There are also videos on YT walking through this process.

For either option, you'll want to replace the various seals after you take the pump apart. There are kits for the various pool pumps typically sold as a "pump seal kit".

If you email or call an online retailer like Inyo Pools with your pool pump make/model, they can direct you on the replacement parts to order.

 

[Privateye]

Just make sure they're giving you the super secret stainless steel seal! Pool pumps typically have brass seals, which will leach copper into your tank. Unfortunately I witnessed one of those brass seals kill all of the invertebrates in a large LFS. It was high enough to turn a polyfilter blue.