ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...

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Reef-Engineer

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Dont know if that will work?

subtle shimmer id call it

ps take it easy on me, this tank is just getting started ;)


also, I guess for reference, this spectrum is Plakativ SPS, their most white spectrum preset. So it just gets more blue from there
 
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Again, courtesy of Henning Wiese, more PAR data:

1601952675636.png
 

Big E

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Oh hey! @Big E! I think i found some of what you are looking for, also from Oliver at ATI...

Quoted from "Oliver Pritzel"

1. Yes, the clusters are of course exchangeable. However, you would now have to go to service, which takes about 2 days.
2. The power supply is a Meanwell ELG 240 and smaller than you know it from the Hybrid, because we do without an additional housing.
3. A 2 meter cable goes from the lamp to the controller, which is a small black box. Approx. 20cm later the power supply comes from it again a 1.8m long one
Plug lead goes.
4. Yes and no. The development just goes on and on. Especially in efficiency. Maybe an example based on the royal blue LEDs. Just a few years ago these had an efficiency of 55-60% (@ 350ma), which was extremely good. The selection that we are installing today has an efficiency of 68% (@ 350ma) and is therefore approx. 10% more efficient. The same applies to our violet and UV LEDs. We have now reached over 60% efficiency. These are important details, as the lower losses also result in less heat. As a result, it is now possible that with the appropriate construction (large and extremely flat), active cooling can be dispensed with. As far as the spectral light composition is concerned, we are also better positioned today with 7 separately dimmable light colors. We have adopted what has been tried and tested here and added further.
5. At maximum output, which can only be achieved if you let all channels run at 100%, the LED boards reach approx. 55 degrees at normal room temperatures. This is similar to our Sirius or Hybrid. Here, however, we still allow 60 degrees before a protective function takes effect. With the Straton we have set this down to 57 degrees to ensure an even better service life. As with the Hybrid or Sirius, the temperature is constantly monitored. You can even display the temperature profile of the LED boards over the last 48 hours in a graphic.

The special thing about the Straton is actually the extremely flat design of only 12mm around which the entire frame with a circumferential edge length of almost 1.90m can serve as a heat sink.

Many greetings
Oliver


so the boards can be swapped, though it might be a service call...

Thanks,

I talked to Oliver 6 years ago about these while he was still in testing and engineering stages, so I know how much time and care was taken in developing and designing these.

My questions on repair was more in line with how they go out of their way to teach people how to fix and replace parts on their T5 products so I was curious if this was taken into consideration and possibly an option.

My warranty complaints are that of the industry as a whole. They all boast these long life in years of use yet most are paltry one year warranties.
 
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Spectrum looks like it'd be great with all channels 100%. Can you comment on the color?

It has been stated that you wouldnt want to run all at 100 due to a likelihood of getting too much Red and possibly shocking coral.

If you did run all at 100% it is a super crisp, 12K look.

The SPS Plakativ is a great way to go if you like the 12K look, just watch your PAR numbers, it is one strong fixture.
 

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Which preset level is the bluer (20k) looking one? How many preset levels are there? Thanks RE!
 
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Just how I like it. ;) This and the CoralCare are shaping up to be very promising lights. I am a halide holdout, but this new generation of LEDs is looking great.

Both of these are really great designs if I can remove my bias hat. As someone who uses other lighting I can say without a doubt both ATI and Philips did their homework and designed an amazing light.
 

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@ATI North America getting way ahead of things, but any plans to release a smaller version? I’ve got a 36x18” reef maturing and was looking for something more XR15-esque

We are ATI North America, those kinds of decisions come from ATI Aquaristik (Germany). I have not heard of such a project, but since the hard work is done it would be great if they did a single panel option (Straton has 3 sections, seems they could do one with just 1 section)

How many would I need for a 36in long tank and around 21in front to back?

As stated 1 would be sufficient but you'd need to take care with your aquascaping to not make shadows on the ends.

First, amazing review. I'm pretty convinced I need these, lol.

Second, it looks like your old T5 setup is hung with hanging wire from both left and right sides. The stratons are hung from front and back. Is it possible to hang them left and right?? I ask because I have a roller motor above my tank that raises and lowers my current light fixture. I'd like to keep that and hang the lights from the same roller. The roller is parallel to the tank lengthwise, if that makes sense. I'm not sure if you must mount the stratons that way because of the 3 lighting options (front to back)? If I orientate them 90* do I still get that front to back feature or would it then be left to right? Short and sweet, does orientation of the light matter?

The Straton has wires in front and back to counter the weight of the cord. It would be nearly impossible to "balance" each unit with the cord hanging off the back if the cables were traditional left to right. That said you can probably still connect both cables directly above the light if you aren't worried about it twisting, or simply add a cross bar on your contraption to connect each light.

Thank you! I ordered 4 and will be here on Wednesday, hoping to mount them from a hanging 90” ecotech rail.

Please send photos when complete!

Also, I heard from ATI Germany and the LEDs are all Cree and Nichia, however they are not sharing the model/versions as it is proprietary.
 

Biff0rz

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The Straton has wires in front and back to counter the weight of the cord. It would be nearly impossible to "balance" each unit with the cord hanging off the back if the cables were traditional left to right. That said you can probably still connect both cables directly above the light if you aren't worried about it twisting, or simply add a cross bar on your contraption to connect each light.
Forgive my poor ms paint job, but I think this is what you're saying I could try and make?

dfghfdg.png
 
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Looks great. So odd question - again not that I'm ordering the lights but more out of curiosity - what does the top of the unit look like especially around the cable management? How is the cable attached and if a screw does anyone know the size? I personally am not a fan cables so just talking out loud if one could use a t-slot bolt and slide it in a 80/20 rail. Or use a riser and a sliding drawer type mechanism.

Really thin profile, right? They pack the light without any light spill judging by it. Great job.
 

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@saf1 do you mean the flat top of the fixture itself? it has 4 tiny holes in which live one-way cable pinch connections. So cable goes in and wont come out unless you depress the little barb sticking up. Very slick.

1602041048537.png


Honestly, if I was going to attach these directly to 80/20 I would 3D print a bracket or otherwise fabricate one.

@xabo min height above water is 6" and you just get more spread (but less par and more light spill) the higher you go above that. I think mine are at 10" now.
 

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I'm not even 1 year into my orphek yet but if it for some reason would go out im looking at 2 of these over a 36 inch tank, or their 8x39W dimmable sunpower. Keep us updated how you like it as time goes on!
 
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@saf1 do you mean the flat top of the fixture itself? it has 4 tiny holes in which live one-way cable pinch connections. So cable goes in and wont come out unless you depress the little barb sticking up. Very slick.

1602041048537.png


Honestly, if I was going to attach these directly to 80/20 I would 3D print a bracket or otherwise fabricate one.

@xabo min height above water is 6" and you just get more spread (but less par and more light spill) the higher you go above that. I think mine are at 10" now.

Thanks. That is exactly what I was looking for. I didn't know it was installed like that and incorrectly assumed it was a screw hole eye bolt type combo. If this was mentioned I apologize as I wasn't thinking it was like this :D A 3d printed tray would be easy and a good idea as you pointed out. Also still allow cable use for additional security such that we need here in Cali :)

Neat. Not what I was envisioning. Thank you for taking that and sharing.
 

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