Back in again. 75g sps build thread

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DesertReefT4r

DesertReefT4r

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I think you should stop MB7 and Reef roids dosing altogether. Might be fueling your cyano.
Yeah not going to feed Reef Roids for a while, until all cyano is long gone. My thought on MB7 is since its a bacteria supplement then it should help with the cyano by out competing it. So far its not helping I also dont dose it regulary, once a week when I think about it and only half the ULN recommened dose. The cyano started to show up when I was not dosing MB7 at all because I ran out for a few months. But it wont hurt to stop dosing it to see if it helps.
 
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DesertReefT4r

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Uuuh, so kind of getting frustrated and bummed out over my tank. I need some help. Corals are still on the recovery and slowly looking better except a few which are just stalled out right now. So at least thats good. Its this red blown slime all over my sand and slowly spreading to the rock. While I was 99% sure its cyano now Im at 50%. Some info on this slime; odviously is red brown in color and looks like thick cyano, mostly in mats but some stringy filaments, small bubbles devolpe in it, disapears at night and shows up a few hours before lights turn on, started after my salinity drop cause a mini crash. I have done 2 Chemi Clean treatments, last one was 2 days ago and was a stronger dose then last time, manual removeal, both are having no effect. Reef Roids seems to fuel it. Tank has been running with low almost 0.00 no3 since the end of the cycle, Red Sea test does show the lightest hint of pink but I need to put the 2 vials on a white paper to tell, almost clear. I can not get no3 to increase over the last 6 months, even dosing, more feeding, removing my fuge and a few more fish had no efffect on no3 so I gave up and stopped casing it, this was before the out break. Po4 was 0.08 ppm with last weeks tests and stays around 0.03-0.08 ppm. So now I am starting to wonder and dreading that it might be.... on man I dont even want to say it...dinos! I am going to do the h2o2 test on it and I will get a few pics of the it to show.
 
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DesertReefT4r

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Just did the h2o2 test and saw a little bubbling but not a ton, not sure how much its supposed to bubble, first pic is the bubbling.Here are the pics. Need some help, either its the tuffest cyano ever or dinos. #reefsquad

20190809_192512_resized.jpg 20190809_191711_resized.jpg 20190809_191032_resized.jpg 20190809_191029_resized.jpg 20190809_191013_resized.jpg
 

najer

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I have never had dinos, hope you get it sorted ok.
Zero to low is not good for nitrates, that won't be helping.
 
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I had a type of cyano after using an algae killer that Chemi-clean never phased a bit. Turns out there are lots of strains of cyano. I used RedCyanoRX from Melev's Reef and it killed it in 3 days! Different drug for different strains. I had no ill effects on fish or inverts. Follow directions , aerate well. Might work for you, I hope so. Cyano sucks, not as bad as dino's, but it sucks, kills your enthusiasm for reefing.
 
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I had a type of cyano after using an algae killer that Chemi-clean never phased a bit. Turns out there are lots of strains of cyano. I used RedCyanoRX from Melev's Reef and it killed it in 3 days! Different drug for different strains. I had no ill effects on fish or inverts. Follow directions , aerate well. Might work for you, I hope so. Cyano sucks, not as bad as dino's, but it sucks, kills your enthusiasm for reefing.
I will give it a try if all else fails. Melevsreef/Marc is awesome. Wish he would give me some of his high nitrates lol.
 
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Water test day.
Alk 7.6
Cal 400
Salinity 1.025
No3 4-5 ppm
Po4 0.04
Yes finally no3 again. I dosed Neo Nitro the last couple of days and pulled out the filter sock. See how long the no3 lasts this time, hope it stays. Cal and alk demand is still on the increase, up to 2.5 ml of 2 part daily and still need to increase it a little. Which is good because that means my corals are growing and recovering. Hoping this black out wont set things back too much.
 
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saltyhog

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A microscopic picture would be very valuable in trying to help. Even if it is cyano there are different strains. Chemiclean only really seems to help with spirulina, while plain old regular cyano does respond to H2O2. I would not treat with H202 if it's dinos. Peroxide is indiscriminate and actually has sometimes made dino problems worse (presumably by taking out competition).
 

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Sorry brother, the hashtags have not been working reliably. I will alert RS. I have no dino experience at all.
Thanks for the heads up! It will be much better when the hashtag issues get resolved.

I find a few things helpful for combating both dino's and cyano. I feel you are on the right track by getting your NO3 and PO4 at good levels.

I've found dosing live phytoplankton to be very helpful to out compete the problematic bacteria/dino's. The other thing I find very effective is good mechanical breakup of the problematic stuff by using a small pump. I use a Cobalt MJ1200 and blast as much crud off of the rock as possible. This not only breaks up the bad stuff but it also removes whatever is dying on the rock that is feeding the bad stuff. Combine this with stirring the sand every few days and I've had success.

I would caution against using the red slime remover products. No doubt they work but they are antibiotic based. It likely won't hurt most of the life in your tank immediately. Unfortunately, almost everyone I know that uses these products finds that it always comes back within 3 to 4 months. It never gives the tank a chance to gain the bio-diversity it needs imo.
 

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FWIW I’ve had good experience with H2O2 with both dinos and cyano. The key is to keep dosing and it does take a while to work ~2 weeks+.

For dinos that will detach when blasted with a powerhead a UV can really make a difference. Consider a cheap jebao pond UV.
 
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DesertReefT4r

DesertReefT4r

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A microscopic picture would be very valuable in trying to help. Even if it is cyano there are different strains. Chemiclean only really seems to help with spirulina, while plain old regular cyano does respond to H2O2. I would not treat with H202 if it's dinos. Peroxide is indiscriminate and actually has sometimes made dino problems worse (presumably by taking out competition).
Not doing the H2O2, was just a thought if all else fails. I will get a microscope if needed but not wanting to by something I will use once or twice.
@Brew12. I have been blowing off the rock with a baster and a power head as well as stirring up the sand bed t o break up the nasties. I also kick the flow up to 100% daily for 20-30 minutes to move waste to the sump and skimmer. I have never been a fan of adding any chemicals or treatments to the main display but chemi clean has work well for me in the past with no issues after. I will report back after the 3 day black out, also dosing Live Rock Enhance which shoule help clean the rock, sand and break down the dieing cyano and algaes for the black out. We will see what happens, I feel this is more natural and less harsh than another chemi clean dose.
 
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Brew12

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FWIW I’ve had good experience with H2O2 with both dinos and cyano. The key is to keep dosing and it does take a while to work ~2 weeks+.
I'll agree with this. I've used it at 1ml per 10g with some success. Now I use a söchting oxydator for continuous H2O2 addition.
 

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Not doing the H2O2, was just a thought if all else fails. I will get a microscope if needed but not wanting to by something I will use once or twice.

I certainly understand that. There is a $12 microscope made by Amscope on Amazon that some people have used to identify their dinos/cyano. I know @dwest has used it, if I can't find it I'm sure he can give us a link.
 

EmdeReef

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I'll agree with this. I've used it at 1ml per 10g with some success. Now I use a söchting oxydator for continuous H2O2 addition.
I run oxydators too, but my understanding was that the catalysts break down peroxide. I’m sure some h2o2 escapes but do you think it’s a significant amount?
 

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