Ball Valve Question

[Humblefish]

So, I’m plumbing a 75 gal with a shadow overflow using Flex PVC (wanted to do something different). I’ve got some of those fancy BioTek Marine True Union Ball Valves to use, but instead of plumbing them over the sump (as I usually would) I was thinking of gluing them directly behind the tank. (I found a photo below of someone else’s build that basically illustrates what I am wanting to do.) I bought the tank used and there is already some Flex PVC glued into each line on the shadow overflow, so at the very least I’d have to use couplings back there anyway. So I figure, why not just put the ball valves back there?

Good idea/bad idea? Reaching the ball valves behind the tank isn’t an issue, because of where I am putting this tank. My concern is what if one of the ball valves starts leaking (onto the floor) instead of dripping harmlessly into the sump. I’ve read ball valves can sometimes be leaky and am also wondering how long do the rubber gaskets last in them?? Thanks for any help/comments.

 

[Big G]

I like having the gate valves up where I can reach them easily and adjust them if necessary without getting down on my hands and knees to reach into the cabinet. Haven't had this up very long, just since last summer. No leaks yet.
~ Gary

 

[Dual40IM]

I am a fan of the gate valves also. Not as cheap but well worth the extra.

 

[Jose Mayo]

My concern is what if one of the ball valves starts leaking (onto the floor) instead of dripping harmlessly into the sump.

If the concern is for leaks, you can wrap them in a transparent plastic bag, fitted to the tube, which can easily be folded back while handling the valve ... if there is dripping, it will be easily seen through the plastic.

Regards

 

[Humblefish]

Thanks @Big G, that’s exactly what I’m wanting to do with this tank. Just looking to see if others have done the same for reassurance.

@Dual40IM I wanted to use a gate valve on my return line, but I have a lot of these BioTek Ball Valves laying around that I need to use up.

@Jose Mayo That’s an excellent suggestion!

 

[Reef Stu]

If your concerned that the O-rings will go bad overtime, you could always put a union on each side of the ball valve. Then you could very easily swap in a new valve at any point.

 

[Dual40IM]

I

Thanks @Big G, that’s exactly what I’m wanting to do with this tank. Just looking to see if others have done the same for reassurance.

@Dual40IM I wanted to use a gate valve on my return line, but I have a lot of these BioTek Ball Valves laying around that I need to use up.

@Jose Mayo That’s an excellent suggestion!

I use the Bio-Tek tru union ball valves also on my returns. They work great and no leaks. In the picture you posted it shows a ball valve on the drain line. I personally prefer a gate valve on the drain line. I feel it is easier to fine tune the drain using a gate valve. This is just my opinion.

 

[Redleg]

The ball valves should be fine. I would recommend that you use some type of pipe support as close to the valve as possible. Ball valves can be difficult to turn especially when they haven't been used in a long time.

 

[CiCikl85]

I like the valves as close to overflow box as I can put them and still reach them, when you are first tuning the siphon it would be a pain to get up and down making sure that its tuned properly. As far as the o'rings in unions going bad I wouldn't worry to much about it, usually those orings go bad from over tightening the nut pinching the oring, they really don't need to be that tight and you really don't need to put a wrench on it. If Valves are used you can remove oring and run to local hardware store and pick up replacement orings pretty cheap...

 

[LJLKRL05]

The ball valves should be fine. I would recommend that you use some type of pipe support as close to the valve as possible. Ball valves can be difficult to turn especially when they haven't been used in a long time.

Agree with this. They get stiff and you don't want to put too much pressure on the bulkhead and glass when you try to turn them.

 

[Jeff_H]

+1

I have my tank setup this way, but with unions on either side and a gate valve, vs the ball valve. I think the gate is easier to fine tune to keep the noise to a minimum from the overflow. It’s been running for about 1 1/2 years so far with no leaks.

Good luck with the new build!

 

[Humblefish]

Thanks for all the great advice everyone!

Once I have the tank all plumbed, I'll post some pics to this thread. I HATE this part of the hobby!!!

 

[Thomashtom]

Thanks @Big G, that’s exactly what I’m wanting to do with this tank. Just looking to see if others have done the same for reassurance.

@Dual40IM I wanted to use a gate valve on my return line, but I have a lot of these BioTek Ball Valves laying around that I need to use up.

@Jose Mayo That’s an excellent suggestion!

Gate valves are also much more accurate. Thanks

 

[Cjud7982]

I have set up a few tanks and always plumb them in using quality parts like sprears true union gate valves and cepex ball valves. Never anything from the generic hardware section. I have yet to ever see a spears gate valve leak or fail or cause any problems whatsoever. Never even a sign of salt creep. as @Thomashtom said, awesome adjust ability and set it and forget it, especially going bean animal. Honestly, I can say the same for any of the cepex ball valves too. However, they are not nearly as easy to dial in. I always found my self fussing with them, so I switch all my drain valves to gates and return lines to ball valves. I would have no concerns plumbing one of these valves away from the sump as long as they get assembled correctly and cant move around.

The bio tek valves you have don't appear to be true union, so I would be absolutely putting one on both sides in case it ever gets stuck, or leaks. This valve looks similar to the ones from the hardware store, just schedule 80. And in my experience using these style is that they get tight, quite hard to turn and if I were mounting it that close to glass, I would be stiffing up that pipe as much as possible and never try adjusting with one hand. And FYI, I haven't seen any of the ones like this that I have ever installed leak on mixing stations, lines to and from the tank, or in household plumbing, not saying it cant happen, but I like the idea of serviceable valves.

 

[Even Further]

I have set up a few tanks and always plumb them in using quality parts like sprears true union gate valves and cepex ball valves.

True union gate valves don't exist. I think you mean just a regular PVC gate valve or true union ball valve. Gate valve are serviceable by popping off the bonnet, so the unions aren't needed.

 

[Cjud7982]

True union gate valves don't exist. I think you mean just a regular PVC gate valve or true union ball valve. Gate valve are serviceable by popping off the bonnet, so the unions aren't needed.

Just testing ya sorry I misspoke and good job catching it unions on both sides of a gate valve to me is useful though if you get the glued ones you can reuse them later on. They're too expensive to just throw away.

 

[OrlandoAIOReef]

I have set up a few tanks and always plumb them in using quality parts like sprears true union gate valves and cepex ball valves. Never anything from the generic hardware section. I have yet to ever see a spears gate valve leak or fail or cause any problems whatsoever. Never even a sign of salt creep. as @Thomashtom said, awesome adjust ability and set it and forget it, especially going bean animal. Honestly, I can say the same for any of the cepex ball valves too. However, they are not nearly as easy to dial in. I always found my self fussing with them, so I switch all my drain valves to gates and return lines to ball valves. I would have no concerns plumbing one of these valves away from the sump as long as they get assembled correctly and cant move around.

The bio tek valves you have don't appear to be true union, so I would be absolutely putting one on both sides in case it ever gets stuck, or leaks. This valve looks similar to the ones from the hardware store, just schedule 80. And in my experience using these style is that they get tight, quite hard to turn and if I were mounting it that close to glass, I would be stiffing up that pipe as much as possible and never try adjusting with one hand. And FYI, I haven't seen any of the ones like this that I have ever installed leak on mixing stations, lines to and from the tank, or in household plumbing, not saying it cant happen, but I like the idea of serviceable valves.

Hey would I need valves on the returns if I have dc pumps ? Also can I do herbie with 2 overflow box/weirs with 1 hole each? 1 as emergency durso & 1 main siphon 1” lower in the other