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It typically spikes my pH, not decreasesWouldn’t it also be reasonable that if one doses a solution at half the potency, it wouldn’t drop the pH as much, if at all?
I don’t think the percentage is the relevant thing to look at here.Also if you look at percentage of amount seen vs dosed it looks a little different. Fauna = 50% of dose seen and bicarb = roughly 75%
Then the instruction have changed. It used to say to fill to 5 liters. But back then they also were rather vague….The 5ltr is interesting. Fauna instructions for balling light suggest filling the containers to the top of the cap neck which is 5.5ltrs when using their cans (I do).
Surely it has to be if we are saying I dosed less dkh than I thought I was? Seems to be the only way to compare like for like based on that data set?I don’t think the percentage is the relevant thing to look at here
Yeah I dont get why it has so much attention unless new to hobby.I don’t think anybody in here is questioning the method. That was proven decades ago. FM certainly isn’t progressing the hobby in any way especially with their claims. It’s the claims that can’t be substantiated in any way
hmm.. not really. pH and alkalinity are not linear and same.Wouldn’t it also be reasonable that if one doses a solution at half the potency, it wouldn’t drop the pH as much, if at all?
Except for the fact Fauna recommend a weekly 10% water change, as is the norm.Then you buy more trace elements instead of water changes OH now I get it. :rolleyes:
I am sure it is not. Every form of dosing has its benefits and draw backs. Kalk you can only dose so much before you are out of room (Evap) or possible ph issues. Kalk is great just not always stand alone.No way it is cheaper than kalk
You don't get any intentional trace materials with kalk however, which I believe was his point. The trace from FM is very cheap, if it does anything beneficial.No way it is cheaper than kalk
What is not mentioned is that there are 3 trace bottles. Trace 1 and Trace 2 go into calcium and Trace3 into alk. This is the base system.You don't get any intentional trace materials with kalk however, which I believe was his point. The trace from FM is very cheap, if it does anything beneficial.
What is not mentioned is that there are 3 trace bottles. Trace 1 and Trace 2 go into calcium and Trace3 into alk. This is the base system.
After that you send in your ICP and they recommend number of separate element bottles and water changes etc…
For example I always ended up with list of deficient elements:
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From my experience when you add it all up it is premium priced system.
There is no evidence that this ingredient is real. By Faunas admission, it's just bicarb.I don´t understand the intension behind the polymers in the FM KH Mix.
I was told that bicarb is the inorganic ingredient, but that there is an organic ingredient (polymer and more?) in the Mix.There is no evidence that this ingredient is real. By Faunas admission, it's just bicarb.
Yes you can adjust the traces as per their calculator:Yes indeed, you will receive multiple single element dosing recommendations with your ICP result, especially for trace metals. But I guess ATI and Triton handle it the same way in their analysis? In all cases pretty misleading for a lot of people.
From my understanding and the way many other people operate Balling Light (or other comparable supply systems) single element dosing is not necessary and adjusting the three trace solutions in case of Balling Light is fully enough (+maybe a few major elements if they are completely off). Actually Fauna Marin is communicating it the same way. In my case I just use the basic system without any single element dosage.
ICP-OES is anyway not sensitive enough in the ultra low concentration regime at which many trace metals occur. If I just take the basic system and compare it to other popular and comparable supply systems on the german market Balling Light is definitely a cost-effective system.
With respect to the FM KH Mix it would be interesting to know which polymers are inside and what the function is. Because that is a definitely a difference to "standard" NaHCO3. I don´t understand the intension behind the polymers in the FM KH Mix.
On your web site you claim that your Balling Light product
". To further aid in restoring and maintaining chemical balance, we’ve developed and added an Organic Peptide Polymer to our Balling salts. This key ingredient helps remove excess elements from the water column."
https://www.faunamarin.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/FM_HTU_Balling_Light_System_EN.pdf
Can you clarify which "excess elements" you believe are being exported, and why you believe they are present in excess in aquariums that use your product?
Being an expert professional polymer chemist who works everyday with peptides, I do not need an explanation of what the material is and I'm not asking for the identity, just clarification of what this purported benefit is.
Thank you.
You've also completely overlooked the fact I used an example for KH as that's what's being discussed. At no point did I state it was all you needed for a 3 part dosing system.What is not mentioned is that there are 3 trace bottles. Trace 1 and Trace 2 go into calcium and Trace3 into alk. This is the base system.
After that you send in your ICP and they recommend number of separate element bottles and water changes etc…
For example I always ended up with list of deficient elements:
![]()
From my experience when you add it all up it is premium priced system.
That's firmly under the DIY dosing category I mentioned.No way it is cheaper than kalk