BRS RODI with Drinking Water tank Issues

[BlueWorldJeff]

I'm having issues with my 5 stage RODI system with drinking water add-on. As of right now, I do not have the DI caniser plumbed in, but just the sediment, 2 x carbon block and 2 x 75gpd RODI membranes and the 2 gallon pressurized tank going to a RO faucet (non-airgap)

What I have noticed is that when the tank gets full, the back pressure will make the unit start to make a wierd whining noise. It will kind of go on and off, then the unit pressure will kick back on, like I turned the supply line back on. I had to keep the supply line off to make it not make that noise.

I was told it was the auto-shutoff valve, so I got another one. When I hooked the new one up and turned it on, there was a different sound and water was pouring out of the drain line.

This video is with the new auto shut off valve and the water on, drinking tank full. The sound at the end, when I turn off the red supply line valve, is what it would do before the new auto shut off was installed.

I am hoping I can leave the supply line on all the time and it wont make any noise or have waste water pouring out when the drinking tank is full. I also bought a new check valve elbow for before he auto shutoff valve, like in the instructions, but havent installed it yet

Video:

 

[motortrendz]

I'm having issues with my 5 stage RODI system with drinking water add-on. As of right now, I do not have the DI caniser plumbed in, but just the sediment, 2 x carbon block and 2 x 75gpd RODI membranes and the 2 gallon pressurized tank going to a RO faucet (non-airgap)

What I have noticed is that when the tank gets full, the back pressure will make the unit start to make a wierd whining noise. It will kind of go on and off, then the unit pressure will kick back on, like I turned the supply line back on. I had to keep the supply line off to make it not make that noise.

I was told it was the auto-shutoff valve, so I got another one. When I hooked the new one up and turned it on, there was a different sound and water was pouring out of the drain line.

This video is with the new auto shut off valve and the water on, drinking tank full. The sound at the end, when I turn off the red supply line valve, is what it would do before the new auto shut off was installed.

I am hoping I can leave the supply line on all the time and it wont make any noise or have waste water pouring out when the drinking tank is full. I also bought a new check valve elbow for before he auto shutoff valve, like in the instructions, but havent installed it yet

Video:

Did you replace the 4 way block that the blue and red lines go Into

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Did you replace the 4 way block that the blue and red lines go Into

yes, that is a brand new auto shutoff valve

 

[KStatefan]

Is there a check valve on the line going to the pressure tank?

 

[SeaDweller]

I have this too! lol!!! I thought i was the only one. I followed the instructions to the T on the BRS site or their video I forgot. Mine had issues when there wasn't pressure going into the DI line (depleted all my prefilters, caused a crash); once there's enough pressure it'll stop all water going in and it makes that noise from time to time. Is the ASO closing with sufficient pressure?

If your DI isn't online, try plumbing it in and then shutting off the product/effluent after the DI; it should work.

 

[CheckeredPants]

Not sure if I had the same issue as you, but I had noise and leakage too. My issue was that I had a big sag in the drain like from the drinking facet to the drain. I ended up shortening the line so there wasn’t a way for it to back up.

Now the only time I have a slight hissing sound from the water facet part is when the tank is filling.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Here is the inline check valve to the pressurized tank

 

[KStatefan]

I have a permeate pump on my system. You will get a little bit better membrane performance with that since it creates more pressure drop across the membrane.

 

[SeaDweller]

So have you tried putting the DI canisters on yet and closing off the product line?

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

So have you tried putting the DI canisters on yet and closing off the product line?

I'm not sure what you mean. The DI canister goes in after the second RO and is T'ed off before to go to the drinking tank. I would just have it plumbed in then the valve off right? Isn't that the same as not having it?

 

[SeaDweller]

I'm not sure what you mean. The DI canister goes in after the second RO and is T'ed off before to go to the drinking tank. I would just have it plumbed in then the valve off right? Isn't that the same as not having it?

That’s what I thought too. I had a ball valve to shut off water to the DI canisters, the ASO wasn’t shutting off the system. Once I opened that up and provided enough water pressure into the system by opening up the cold water valve full bore (which gets me 80 psi into the system), the ASO valve closes as it should. Your system was like mine when the ASO wasn’t working: user error. When I ran 50-60 psi into the system, i remember it wasn’t working properly. So in my case, the pressure built up by closing the product line after the DI and the increased incoming pressure allowed it to work, otherwise I was producing water non stop.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

I suppose I can plumb in the DI canister and shut it off after the canister. Does it need Resin in it or just the canister. i dont have a tank right now, so no need for RODI. I'll also replace the elbow check valve circled here:

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

one other note. when I would create ATO water, i used a float switch, which would stop the entire flow of water, so a valve after the Di makes sense

 

[SeaDweller]

one other note. when I would create ATO water, i used a float switch, which would stop the entire flow of water, so a valve after the Di makes sense

Bingo. I have your same set up; RO for drinking and RODI for reef. I have a ball valve before my DI (not needed, and the problem as to why ASO wasn't working) and at the end of my DI product line to allow RODI when I need it. When I shut OFF the water supply to only the DI canisters, I had issues. With water and pressure throughout the whole system, it works as should.

good luck, you already solved it without realizing it.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Bingo. I have your same set up; RO for drinking and RODI for reef. I have a ball valve before my DI (not needed, and the problem as to why ASO wasn't working) and at the end of my DI product line to allow RODI when I need it. When I shut OFF the water supply to only the DI canisters, I had issues. With water and pressure throughout the whole system, it works as should.

good luck, you already solved it without realizing it.

So I shouldnt put a ball valve between the T to the pressurized tank and the DI canister, I should let the water run to the DI canister, but valve it off after the DI canister, right? if I was using DI , i would want the valve before the DI canister so I could turn it off for just RO water

 

[SeaDweller]

So I shouldnt put a ball valve between the T to the pressurized tank and the DI canister, I should let the water run to the DI canister, but valve it off after the DI canister, right? if I was using DI , i would want the valve before the DI canister so I could turn it off for just RO water

correct, that's what worked for me to eliminate the constant water production. That valve is what caused the issue: the whirring noise, flux in pressure (when the unit is supposed to be off but isn't), and the constant water running thru the system.

I haven't used that ball valve before the DI canister ever again and my filters aren't depleted.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Just so I get this straight. Right now on my system, the tank gets full, but ASO valve does not shut off the flow of supply (red) water, which forces all the good and bad water out of the waste water line? The ASO just has red and blue lines and if the tank is full, the good/Blue water has to go somewhere so it gets forced out the black line?

 

[SeaDweller]

I have no clue, maybe sounds partially right? I'm just giving you an idea with what worked for me, seeing how my situation was probably the same as yours. Once I ran water into my DI (aka opening the ball valve to the DI), the correct pressure must have been maintained in the system to allow the ASO to do it's job, shutting off the whole entire unit. Otherwise I was having your issue when I thought "I needed" to prevent water from going into the DI canisters.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Adding the DI seems to have worked so far. i I'm nitpicking, when the water shuts off, I still get the pulsing noise in the video below. I'd have to look to see exactly where it is coming from, but at least when the water stops, it stops until i use more. Any ideas on the noise during shutoff? You have to turn the volume up to hear the noise in the video, but its loud when standing there

 

[SeaDweller]

Is the noise like a low pitch creak or whir? If so it happens on mine periodically still. Nothing happens when I click on the pic above.