BRS160 Update 4: Triton Method, here we come! | BRStv
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No need for it. Simple as that really.
We want to keep things as simple and efficient as possible the algae refugium is more than capable of taking care of the systems nutrient control so there is no need to further complicate things by adding an additional method to the sump.
OP
OP
No change to the lighting other than adding a third Kessil AP700 near the end of the 52Weeks FAQ. We did change the refugium lighting to the H1200 instead of the H350, because Ryan needed a new toy on the tank!
-Randy
No change to the lighting other than adding a third Kessil AP700 near the end of the 52Weeks FAQ. We did change the refugium lighting to the H1200 instead of the H350, because Ryan needed a new toy on the tank!
-Randy
Was that about a month prior to switching over to the Triton method? Was intensity lowered on the original fixtures when you added the third?
OP
OP
Hmmm... I can't remember the exact date, but I remember it was around the same time we were filming some 52FAQs which we ended that series in April this year. Yeah, we had to turn down the intensity on all three to accommodate additional PAR from the third fixture. I think the max intensity for them is around 30%-35%.
-Randy
I'm going triton and thinking about adding MarinePure to the sump to help with what will be a high bioload (cycle finished last night). I'm pretty sure that it has been debunked already, but out of curiosity what are the Aluminum numbers like in the 160 with all that MarinePure. It never hurts to be sure
Scott.h
Valuable Member
Shameless quoted from national lampoons vegas vacation.I'm going triton and thinking about adding MarinePure to the sump to help with what will be a high bioload (cycle finished last night). I'm pretty sure that it has been debunked already, but out of curiosity what are the Aluminum numbers like in the 160 with all that MarinePure. It never hurts to be sure
Sorry, not a National Lampoon fan....
Scott.h
Valuable Member
They didn't do triton a triton test before removing the blocks, or won't admit it, either way, but depending on your water volume your aluminum can definitely reach 100 μg/L in the first 6 months. Triton recommends 2 μg/L. Some corals won't care. Some will die. Al starts to taper off after 6 months, but will still be quite elevated after a year, even doing 10% weekly water changes. Long term MP doesn't have that much of an advantage over cured live rock anyway. If you must have MP in your sump it would be best to at a minimum to cure it in a container for several months first. If you are going to have one block in 200 gallons it might not be that bad. If you have a 55 gallon tank with soft corals many will probably suffer. Rinsing the blocks well won't eliminate this result either. Lithium will also be quite elevated - less of a concern.
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Thank you! More rock in the sump it is. Running out of room...
OP
OP
I'm going triton and thinking about adding MarinePure to the sump to help with what will be a high bioload (cycle finished last night). I'm pretty sure that it has been debunked already, but out of curiosity what are the Aluminum numbers like in the 160 with all that MarinePure. It never hurts to be sure
Here's a snapshot look into our test for October, however the Marine Pure in the BRS160 was removed shortly after that episode was shot. Unfortunately at that time a couple years ago, ICP-OES analysis wasn't as popular as it is now, so we don't have any detailed data from back then.
Thanks! After what Scott said I think I’ll steer clear for now. I don’t have the cash to pee on the electric fence for myself.Here's a snapshot look into our test for October, however the Marine Pure in the BRS160 was removed shortly after that episode was shot. Unfortunately at that time a couple years ago, ICP-OES analysis wasn't as popular as it is now, so we don't have any detailed data from back then.
Darn, it really took a while to draw that thing up. Anyhow, since you guys are already discussing this method and the possible setups, i may join in as well.
First of all my guy here in Estonia, who sets up the tanks planned the whole thing so that i wouldn't have to do the water changes. As you may have guessed, i'm a new to the hobby (1 year sharp) and originally inherited a 235g tank which looked like hiroshima at the time. Had 11 fish in it and a bunch of immortal leather corals, decent amount of liverock and just about enough of sand.
Long story short, the system had nothing, no skimmers, no fuges, lousy old pumps that barely woke up after a cleaning procedure etc etc. So the guy who maintains these things in here came to the rescue. He added a sump, chaeto and an additional 20g tank for water changes. Also the bio balls and the overflow sock in front of it, that i still clean up on weekly basis.
Needless to say that i'm still bothered with slightly elevated nitrates and cyano (no clue where it came from, prolly way before i inherited the tank).
What i've been doing all this time is replacing the stuff that does not work with a proper equipment. Got 2x Tunze stream 3 pumps, Tunze 9410DC skimmer and about to add a new DC overflow pump for 6 tons/h. The light up in the tank are 2x ViparSpectra 165w LEDs (considering adding a third one as this is a 50-50 case coverage wise).
So looking at the drawing, my questions are:
1) is this an okay setup for the Triton method or should i still physically change the locations and the equipment?
2) should i move my skimmer to the chaeto fuge tank?
3) My chaeto won't grow (probably because of the poor lightning in the fuge), should i hence build an additional glass wall right after the fuge overflow pipe's location and remove the pump with the sock that is there now? I have a feeling that in addition to poor light the pump creates too much water tention for chaeto to swallow.
4) Perhaps a good idea to add chaeto to the water change tank if i'm good to go with the triton method?
5) That nasty cyano should be gone if the fuge's working well they say. Well i'm pretty sure my main tank flow is good enough with 2x stream 3's, but i'm guessing that i need a few gobi's for the sandbed cleaning and perhaps something else? any tips would be awesome.
Please keep in mind that i still only have soft corals and 12 fish in the tank, 2 red bubbletips and some inverts, feeding them 4 cubes of brine daily and half a tea spoon of nutrient rich mariperls (JBL). Therefore i've got a lot of time to set this thing in order before really taking a jab at it.
First of all my guy here in Estonia, who sets up the tanks planned the whole thing so that i wouldn't have to do the water changes. As you may have guessed, i'm a new to the hobby (1 year sharp) and originally inherited a 235g tank which looked like hiroshima at the time. Had 11 fish in it and a bunch of immortal leather corals, decent amount of liverock and just about enough of sand.
Long story short, the system had nothing, no skimmers, no fuges, lousy old pumps that barely woke up after a cleaning procedure etc etc. So the guy who maintains these things in here came to the rescue. He added a sump, chaeto and an additional 20g tank for water changes. Also the bio balls and the overflow sock in front of it, that i still clean up on weekly basis.
Needless to say that i'm still bothered with slightly elevated nitrates and cyano (no clue where it came from, prolly way before i inherited the tank).
What i've been doing all this time is replacing the stuff that does not work with a proper equipment. Got 2x Tunze stream 3 pumps, Tunze 9410DC skimmer and about to add a new DC overflow pump for 6 tons/h. The light up in the tank are 2x ViparSpectra 165w LEDs (considering adding a third one as this is a 50-50 case coverage wise).
So looking at the drawing, my questions are:
1) is this an okay setup for the Triton method or should i still physically change the locations and the equipment?
2) should i move my skimmer to the chaeto fuge tank?
3) My chaeto won't grow (probably because of the poor lightning in the fuge), should i hence build an additional glass wall right after the fuge overflow pipe's location and remove the pump with the sock that is there now? I have a feeling that in addition to poor light the pump creates too much water tention for chaeto to swallow.
4) Perhaps a good idea to add chaeto to the water change tank if i'm good to go with the triton method?
5) That nasty cyano should be gone if the fuge's working well they say. Well i'm pretty sure my main tank flow is good enough with 2x stream 3's, but i'm guessing that i need a few gobi's for the sandbed cleaning and perhaps something else? any tips would be awesome.
Please keep in mind that i still only have soft corals and 12 fish in the tank, 2 red bubbletips and some inverts, feeding them 4 cubes of brine daily and half a tea spoon of nutrient rich mariperls (JBL). Therefore i've got a lot of time to set this thing in order before really taking a jab at it.
OP
OP
The Triton Core7 doesn't have amino acids or coral foods, just major/minor/trace elements. We are using a few of the Zeovit products that are coral foods and amino acids for extra nutrition for the corals.
-Randy
bubbaque
Follow me on Instagram @ Bubbaquecorals
For people who want to try the triton method and follow their directions. Triton doesn't say anything about using those types are products. Will people have an issue with not enough nutrients unless they dose aminos because of the algae bed being so efficient?
The Triton Core7 doesn't have amino acids or coral foods, just major/minor/trace elements. We are using a few of the Zeovit products that are coral foods and amino acids for extra nutrition for the corals.
-Randy
OP
OP
1) is this an okay setup for the Triton method or should i still physically change the locations and the equipment?
Triton recommends that the primary drains enter the refugium first, then flow into the skimmer chamber then finally into the return pump chamber. This way 100% of the water gets exposed to the refugium at a 10x turnover rate.
2) should i move my skimmer to the chaeto fuge tank?
The concern with having them in the same chamber is that you would possibly be battling with the skimmer pump getting clogged fairly regularly. The Chaeto can get broken into several pieces pretty easily.
3) My chaeto won't grow (probably because of the poor lightning in the fuge), should i hence build an additional glass wall right after the fuge overflow pipe's location and remove the pump with the sock that is there now? I have a feeling that in addition to poor light the pump creates too much water tention for chaeto to swallow.
I think the two biggest issues with stalled Chaeto is that 1) Poor refugium lighting, and 2) Too little algae to begin with. If you haven't already, check out our Chaeto and refugium testing series which shares some very compelling evidence on how important proper lighting can be. Along with that, you may want to start with a fairly large amount of algae, so that it has a chance to out-compete the display and hair algae.
4) Perhaps a good idea to add chaeto to the water change tank if i'm good to go with the triton method?
The Triton Method is a simple refugium, skimmer and 10x turnover, (and possibly the occasional GFO if absolutely needed). Outside of that you purposefully dose major, minor and trace elements to match natural seawater as closely as possible. Anything extra is exactly that, extra.
5) That nasty cyano should be gone if the fuge's working well they say. Well i'm pretty sure my main tank flow is good enough with 2x stream 3's, but i'm guessing that i need a few gobi's for the sandbed cleaning and perhaps something else? any tips would be awesome.
There has been many reefers who've had success with increased flow or creatures that stir up the sand. In many other cases, some sort of varied approach is necessary.
**Responses in the quoted post.
All in all, the entire method is intended to be very easy and uncomplicated. So far for us on the BRS160 it has been exactly that! We choose to follow the Triton Method recipe exactly (with the addition of coral foods and amino acids) which means a very basic sump setup and dosing setup. I'd also recommend posting your ideas and questions in the Triton Forum here on R2R, as varying opinions can be very helpful!
-Randy
OP
OP
This is exactly what we are testing for in the next evolution of our Chaetomorpha and Refugium testing, currently on the BRS160. Check out our latest update video we posted last week HERE.
bubbaque
Follow me on Instagram @ Bubbaquecorals
This is exactly what we are testing for in the next evolution of our Chaetomorpha and Refugium testing, currently on the BRS160. Check out our latest update video we posted last week HERE.
Thanks I watched the video, that’s where I seen you were using amino acids. It varied from the standard Triton method is why I was wondering if aminos are needed to run the Triton method because of the algae fuge. I look forward to next evolution of chaeto videos.
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