Nice.
Calling all DIY Wizards!!!
- Thread starter Daniel@R2R
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That's cool. You have a link to see some of you LED fixtures.
Sure. This is the build I made for my BioCube, but I've had many different tanks in the past and have always built my own LED lights.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/32-gallon-biocube.345535/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/32-gallon-biocube.345535/
This is too funny. I honestly have never seen a toilet float used in this fashion.
Do you mind sharing how you hook up the RODI to the float valve? The ones in my house all hook up from underneath with a 1/2" or 3/4" hose. Just curious.
Do you mind sharing how you hook up the RODI to the float valve? The ones in my house all hook up from underneath with a 1/2" or 3/4" hose. Just curious.
My ATO $12 @ Home depot. Hooked it up directly to the ro/di and it sits in my sump. Been running with no issues for the last 4 - 5yrs. Even put one in my mix tank.
redfishbluefish
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My Tank Thread
My ATO $12 @ Home depot. Hooked it up directly to the ro/di and it sits in my sump. Been running with no issues for the last 4 - 5yrs. Even put one in my mix tank.
This is brilliant!
SALT WIFE
New Member
Lol - yup MY redneck set up. Best part is your float is adjustable so you can set the perfect water hieght in the sump. Simple to hook up, you only need a plastic compression fitting for the size hose coming off your rodi which will screw onto the bottom of the float. Sold at HD for a couple of bucks. Egg crate was used to mount it
This is AMAZING....... I'm speechless. Simple ingenuity that grabs my DIY-budget-building-soul, shakes it vigorously and asks "Why didn't you think of that!!!!?"My ATO $12 @ Home depot. Hooked it up directly to the ro/di and it sits in my sump. Been running with no issues for the last 4 - 5yrs. Even put one in my mix tank.
Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
I like it, I like it alot
Scrubber_steve
2500 Club Member
My ATO $12 @ Home depot. Hooked it up directly to the ro/di and it sits in my sump. Been running with no issues for the last 4 - 5yrs. Even put one in my mix tank.
Simple. Effective.
Two traits all GOOD solutions should have.
Mikey Mane The Flare
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Hope your well ventilated or using a sealed battery. Some batteries give off a flammable gas while charging. If your unsure I’d be carful unplugging anything or plugging anything in lol
My DIY battery back up
OREGONIC
Well-Known Member
Love DIY as well. My Crazy refuge/sump build for a 54 gal. corner bow stand. Let me tell you, it don't come out without cutting it up or removing the tank. LOL
This, as U can see drove me nuts but, turned out to be a super sweet set-up.
Can I see a tank shot of that build. I have the same tank and have been thinking about switching it from a planted tank to a reef and curious where u put the overflow and return.
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
Oh, for sure I'm a cheap reefer and always have been. Slowly updating my build thread and that will have a lot of DIY with explanations in the next couple of weeks along with what has already been done. There is a certain satisfaction in DIY that I can't explain. I don't always save all that much money but it is more about making it mine.
Reboot Standard 125. Nothing special here.
Reboot Standard 125. Nothing special here.
bdmach1
Community Member
My ATO $12 @ Home depot. Hooked it up directly to the ro/di and it sits in my sump. Been running with no issues for the last 4 - 5yrs. Even put one in my mix tank.
WOW...That's Fantastic! Way to think outside the box @SALT WIFE !
Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
NiceMy algae turf scrubber build...
Having had success yesterday with the ATS, I decided to make a holder for the float valve I received today. For any do DIY'ers out there interested in working with acrylic, there are some tips below...
1. Make sure you have a smooth, flat surface to work on that won't cling to the acrylic. An old solid board will work. Avoid particle board, as the smaller pieces will stick.
2. Keep some smaller pieces of wood (2x4/2x6/2x8's etc) close by, that you can use as a brace. Clamps are your friend.
3. Use Weld-on 3. It starts to set in a minute or less. So you need to be prepared to get it glued right, the first time. Dry fit everything first, to see and eliminate any gaps. Weld-on 4 takes longer to set, but I honestly would have liked a faster set than the #3 in most cases.
4. The Weld-on is a water thin liquid. So when using an applicator syringe (hobby stores have them), it will just pour right out when you turn the applicator upside down. SQUEEZE the bottle right side up, then- when applying- SLOWLY tilt the needle towards the seam. As the liquid comes out, it will bleed in between the seams on it's own. Squeezing the air out before hand, will allow you to now have suction so a ton doesn't come spilling out. But it will still try, so be wary. Hold it tight for two minutes, then look for air pockets and apply some more Weld-on in those spots.
5. You can cut the acrylic really easy with wood saws. A table saw, miter saw, and band saw- all work- really well. Use a fine tooth blade if possible on the table and miter saws. Drilling holes are easy, but be careful once you punch through. The drill bit can catch and turn the piece you're drilling (especially if it's small) into a airplane propeller that can smash a finger. So have it well braced when you start drilling.
6. Don't put any pressure on the seams for at least an hour after melting them together.
7. Don't bother looking for Weld-on in the store. Just save yourself the time and gas, and order it online.
8. When you open the Weld-on (with pliers most likely), it will have a piece of metal in the opening that says "Cut this out". Punch a hole in it with a screw driver, and pry the piece out. Be careful! Again, this is water thin liquid. If you jostle too much, trying to pry this piece out, you'll lose half the product on the floor.
Hope that helps. Message me if you have questions.
1. Make sure you have a smooth, flat surface to work on that won't cling to the acrylic. An old solid board will work. Avoid particle board, as the smaller pieces will stick.
2. Keep some smaller pieces of wood (2x4/2x6/2x8's etc) close by, that you can use as a brace. Clamps are your friend.
3. Use Weld-on 3. It starts to set in a minute or less. So you need to be prepared to get it glued right, the first time. Dry fit everything first, to see and eliminate any gaps. Weld-on 4 takes longer to set, but I honestly would have liked a faster set than the #3 in most cases.
4. The Weld-on is a water thin liquid. So when using an applicator syringe (hobby stores have them), it will just pour right out when you turn the applicator upside down. SQUEEZE the bottle right side up, then- when applying- SLOWLY tilt the needle towards the seam. As the liquid comes out, it will bleed in between the seams on it's own. Squeezing the air out before hand, will allow you to now have suction so a ton doesn't come spilling out. But it will still try, so be wary. Hold it tight for two minutes, then look for air pockets and apply some more Weld-on in those spots.
5. You can cut the acrylic really easy with wood saws. A table saw, miter saw, and band saw- all work- really well. Use a fine tooth blade if possible on the table and miter saws. Drilling holes are easy, but be careful once you punch through. The drill bit can catch and turn the piece you're drilling (especially if it's small) into a airplane propeller that can smash a finger. So have it well braced when you start drilling.
6. Don't put any pressure on the seams for at least an hour after melting them together.
7. Don't bother looking for Weld-on in the store. Just save yourself the time and gas, and order it online.
8. When you open the Weld-on (with pliers most likely), it will have a piece of metal in the opening that says "Cut this out". Punch a hole in it with a screw driver, and pry the piece out. Be careful! Again, this is water thin liquid. If you jostle too much, trying to pry this piece out, you'll lose half the product on the floor.
Hope that helps. Message me if you have questions.
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