Changing nutrient export method

[CoralClasher]

Tank is 11 months old. 130 gallons total. Rocks have been wet for 6 years. About 20 fish. Currently using mixed macros and GFO for nutrient control. Reading about algae and DOC I’ve decided to remove the Macroalgae. Will it be ok to pull all the macros at one time during a large water change or should this done slowly?
Current parameters
Salinity 1.026
Temp 80
ALK 8.4
No3 9.7
Phosphate 0.22
Full ICP on my build thread
Pictures are using no filters and just white lights except FTS.

 

[Saltyreef]

I would do it slowly over the course of a week or 2. Small, slow changes are best in this hobby from experience.

 

[CoralClasher]

 

[Saltyreef]

And thats A LOT of macro!

I'm wondering what you read that makes you want to change?

Your tank looks amazing and clearly...its working

 

[CoralClasher]

Next question is what nutrient control method should I use?

 

[CoralClasher]

And thats A LOT of macro!

And im wondering what you read that makes you want to change?

Your tank looks amazing and clearly...its working

Yeah I just pulled it all out last night to give the refugium a good cleaning and it filled a five gallon bucket full.

 

[CoralClasher]

And thats A LOT of macro!

I'm wondering what you read that makes you want to change?

Your tank looks amazing and clearly...its working

@Timfish on my other thread.
Thread 'Feeding microbes'
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/feeding-microbes.829696/

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Nopox worked well for me in bringing down excess nutrients. I had an algae scrubber for 1year (tank is almost 2years old, rock is 3-4years wet) and I never liked the color of algae or consistency of it. My tank did go threw a small crash when I took that scrubber offline. My nutrients skyrocketed till the protein skimmer and nopox could grab hold.
for chaeto I recommend pulling 80-90 percent out then lowering its light schedule for about 1-2 weeks to give your other nutrient export a chance to take the reins

 

[Quietman]

Ummm... based solely on appearance and what works for you, I'd recommend using macroalgae. I'm hestitant to implement changes based on statements like "research shows we should do x in our tanks". I don't think that ever overrides - "my tank looks great this way". Having a good looking tank isn't easy and you have one.

If you want to change to something, do so slowly and have a plan and goal in mind. Macro and micro algae have been shown to be very effective in nutrient management. There's also remote sand beds, mud for natural and skimmers/media for mechanical.

 

[CoralClasher]

Nopox worked well for me in bringing down excess nutrients. I had an algae scrubber for 1year (tank is almost 2years old, rock is 3-4years wet) and I never liked the color of algae or consistency of it. My tank did go threw a small crash when I took that scrubber offline. My nutrients skyrocketed till the protein skimmer and nopox could grab hold.
for chaeto I recommend pulling 80-90 percent out then lowering your light aches for about 1-2 weeks to give your other nutrient export a chance to take the reins

I’ve had bad experiences with vinegar and vodka. No skimmer but I’m willing to add one if needed. I do have a bio pellet reactor from years ago.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

I’ve had bad experiences with vinegar and vodka. No skimmer but I’m willing to add one if needed. I do have a bio pellet reactor from years ago.

The bio pellets are what I’m about to try out next, not sure why I’m going to when the nopox is working but I bought a new reactor for gfo and no longer need gfo, then marine depot had a huge sale and here we are 2500ml of bio pellets later.
the thing is you will need a skimmer for bio pellets. From my understanding the bio pellets create the home for bacteria and then that bacteria gets exported via skimmer

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Without the macro or a skimmer your scratching at the door of frequent water changes for nutrient export

 

[CoralClasher]

Ummm... based solely on appearance and what works for you, I'd recommend using macroalgae. I'm hestitant to implement changes based on statements like "research shows we should do x in our tanks". I don't think that ever overrides - "my tank looks great this way". Having a good looking tank isn't easy and you have one.

If you want to change to something, do so slowly and have a plan and goal in mind. Macro and micro algae have been shown to be very effective in nutrient management. There's also remote sand beds, mud for natural and skimmers/media for mechanical.

I would say my tank is surviving not thriving. And the macros are not looking that good to me. I’ve been changing 30 gallons a week and the macros are always full of junk. From using ChaetoGro my last ICP says dangerous levels of cobalt.

 

[Quietman]

I would say my tank is surviving not thriving. And the macros are not looking that good to me. I’ve been changing 30 gallons a week and the macros are always full of junk. From using ChaetoGro my last ICP says dangerous levels of cobalt.

Ah...I see. Assuming the macroalgae isn't breaking down (more light or flow needed) then the macros aren't generating the "junk" and removing them is still going to require "junk" removal. Could be easy as filter sponge/sock on the inlet to your macro algae section. If you have a lot of excess detritus build up, usually from food (only input really), a mechanical filter (sock/sponge) is going to be required no matter what methodology you decide on.

That said...without some natural alternative (don't know your preference on tech vs natural) with a lot of detritus - a big 'ol skimmer and sock/sponge setup is tried and true.

 

[CoralClasher]

Ah...I see. Assuming the macroalgae isn't breaking down (more light or flow needed) then the macros aren't generating the "junk" and removing them is still going to require "junk" removal. Could be easy as filter sponge/sock on the inlet to your macro algae section. If you have a lot of excess detritus build up, usually from food (only input really), a mechanical filter (sock/sponge) is going to be required no matter what methodology you decide on.

That said...without some natural alternative (don't know your preference on tech vs natural) with a lot of detritus - a big 'ol skimmer and sock/sponge setup is tried and true.

I’m a big fan of natural methods. I used to run filters but they made no difference in the detritus. With dosing No3 and only running refugium light 8 hours I can keep No3 around 10ppm. If I run the lights 24/7 I can get below 1ppm. I’ve done that twice this year trying to lower nutrients for Acropora but they never live in my tank.

 

[Quietman]

A mixed tank that covers softies/mushrooms all the way up to high end, difficult SPS is one of the harder things to do. You can try some easier SPS - Birdsnest or maybe pavona - I had some success in my mixed with them as they're a bit more forgiving.

Have you looked at where all the detritus/nitrates are coming from? Fish keepers generally have a hard time accepting how little food fish really need (guilty here - especially my fw tanks). If you don't want to look into feeding habits or food quality - (lots of info on what's best here) - then you're going to be looking at what I mentioned previously with some serious mechanical filtration - perhaps even a roller mat.

 

[CoralClasher]

A mixed tank that covers softies/mushrooms all the way up to high end, difficult SPS is one of the harder things to do. You can try some easier SPS - Birdsnest or maybe pavona - I had some success in my mixed with them as they're a bit more forgiving.

Have you looked at where all the detritus/nitrates are coming from? Fish keepers generally have a hard time accepting how little food fish really need (guilty here - especially my fw tanks). If you don't want to look into feeding habits or food quality - (lots of info on what's best here) - then you're going to be looking at what I mentioned previously with some serious mechanical filtration - perhaps even a roller mat.

I’m pretty sure the detritus is from bugs and bristle worms. I definitely like to feed the fish healthy food: fresh clams, live black worms, Spirulina mysis, TDO pellets and LRS frozen.

 

[Timfish]

. . . I'm hestitant to implement changes based on statements like "research shows we should do x in our tanks". I don't think that ever overrides - "my tank looks great this way". . .

Seems to me that same line of reasoning could be used to justify keeping smoking, afterall 9 out of 10 lifetime smokers never get ling cancer so clearly the research is lacking.

It doesn't matter where you look, whether it's sustaining our own physical and mental health, sustainable farming or keeping corals healthy and alive for at least their normal life expectancies having the healthy microbial processes is essential. It doesn't strike me as reasonable to continue practices and methodologies that disrupt and even promote pathogenic microbial shifts in coral microbiomes.

 

[PeterC99]

Great video - beautiful aquarium!

 

[Jon_W79]

Tank is 11 months old. 130 gallons total. Rocks have been wet for 6 years. About 20 fish. Currently using mixed macros and GFO for nutrient control. Reading about algae and DOC I’ve decided to remove the Macroalgae. Will it be ok to pull all the macros at one time during a large water change or should this done slowly?
Current parameters
Salinity 1.026
Temp 80
ALK 8.4
No3 9.7
Phosphate 0.22
Full ICP on my build thread
Pictures are using no filters and just white lights except FTS.

I don't think you should remove the algae. I think you may be able to get denitrifying bacteria to consume the DOC if you dose certain vitamins. If you want to try it, I would recommend dosing 0.1gram of bulk supplements thiamine powder once a day for 3 days(I think this may make the water significantly more clear). You may want to watch nitrate and phosphate levels. I dosed about 0.4 ppm of thiamine in my reef tank, and I believe it made the water significantly more clear, and I saw bacteria growth.

Here is a paper that has information about dosing vitamins for denitrifying bacteria.