Cyanobacteria

TK_KW

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#Reefsquadleaders #reefsquad

So final was able to get some photos with microscope. Just confirming this is cyano. Reason I ask is weeks ago I dosed chemclean, which had 50% effect. I also tried redslim remover, did nothing.

**first two photos were prior to firat chemclean trtreatment used them for the visual in tank. Its currently only half as bad as those photos. Seems to have slowed, but still persists**

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TK_KW

TK_KW

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Your nutrients levels?

Sincerely Lasse

Cyano started after i was using Vibrant for Bryopsis. Pulled Chateo and treated. Stupid move, as my Nitrates hit zero for a period of time, and I didn't catch it. Through system out of whack.

Since initial Cyano outbreak. I have been feeding more, and dosing Nitrates as needed. And had some tangs and others added to system. As they were done their QT time.

Currently for last 2-3 weeks,

Nitrate- .5 to 1ppm (redsea)
Phosphate- .1 (redsea)

Mag-1400
Cal- 450
Alk- 8.6

And my Chateo has started growing again.
 

Lasse

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IMO - you have using 3 different drugs against different organisms. This types of drugs is not target missiles -they are more or less shotguns in their actions. You have probably a very disturbed microorganism ecosystem.

For me it looks like that it is only time, disent NO3 levels and manual interference that will solve your problem.

Time - it will take more than one months to get back in track again
Disent NO3 levels. Keep dosing - breakpoint 3 - 5 ppm. Be sure that you do not have nitrite in the water that disturb your NO3 measurements.
Manual interference Disturb the mats every evening when they are as worst

Sincerely Lasse
 

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I agree with @Lasse it will take some time to get back into balance. Dosing NO3 after a depletion will also tend to lower PO4 so keep an eye on that nutrient as well. Depleting PO4 will do a number on your corals and likely lead you to dinoflagellates. This is an extremely common pattern.

For bryopsis, I prefer fluconazole. Treatment comes with different risks (to SPS in particular) but does not have the same indiscriminate, system-wide impact that come with dosing antibiotics like erythromycin or algaecides/bacteria (Chemiclean/Red Slime and Vibrant).
 

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Excuse the my horrible attempt to point out where the dino are. I arrowed where I see dino

dino_LI.jpg
Oh darn. I think @Miller535 is correct. Darn darn darn.

IMO you need to overcorrect on nutrient now. If those start multiplying they can quickly strip your water & rock of PO4 and NO3.

I cannot make out which species they are from those pics. If you can try a few more shots that get clearer images of the tan colored round things Miller points out, we should be able to rule in/out the efficacy of hitting them with UV.

PO4 >= .1
NO3 >= 10
 

Miller535

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Oh darn. I think @Miller535 is correct. Darn darn darn.

IMO you need to overcorrect on nutrient now. If those start multiplying they can quickly strip your water & rock of PO4 and NO3.

I cannot make out which species they are from those pics. If you can try a few more shots that get clearer images of the tan colored round things Miller points out, we should be able to rule in/out the efficacy of hitting them with UV.

PO4 >= .1
NO3 >= 10

Yeah, that is why I did not even attempt to ID which kind of Dino.
 

Lasse

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Are you sure that it is Dino´s. At least I can´t judge that. The pictures is too dizzy for met to see if there is flagels. There is a lot of microorganism that looks like this guys. These on the pictures seems to be much larger than the cyanobacteria cells.

Sincerely Lasse
 

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Are you sure that it is Dino´s. At least I can´t judge that. The pictures is too dizzy for met to see if there is flagels. There is a lot of microorganism that looks like this guys. These on the pictures seems to be much larger than the cyanobacteria cells.

Sincerely Lasse

Yes, I am very positive. One of the ones in the center you can even see the "beak" like feature that most dinos seem to have.

I actually think two different kinds. If I had to guess based off of the bleurry image I would say ostreopsis, and large cell amphidinium.
 
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Yes, I am very positive. One of the ones in the center you can even see the "beak" like feature that most dinos seem to have.

I actually think two different kinds. If I had to guess based off of the bleurry image I would say ostreopsis, and large cell amphidinium.
If dino's, what is action plan.
 
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I agree with @Lasse it will take some time to get back into balance. Dosing NO3 after a depletion will also tend to lower PO4 so keep an eye on that nutrient as well. Depleting PO4 will do a number on your corals and likely lead you to dinoflagellates. This is an extremely common pattern.

For bryopsis, I prefer fluconazole. Treatment comes with different risks (to SPS in particular) but does not have the same indiscriminate, system-wide impact that come with dosing antibiotics like erythromycin or algaecides/bacteria (Chemiclean/Red Slime and Vibrant).
I have gotten rid of bryopsis with using fluconazole. Worked great
 
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Oh darn. I think @Miller535 is correct. Darn darn darn.

IMO you need to overcorrect on nutrient now. If those start multiplying they can quickly strip your water & rock of PO4 and NO3.

I cannot make out which species they are from those pics. If you can try a few more shots that get clearer images of the tan colored round things Miller points out, we should be able to rule in/out the efficacy of hitting them with UV.

PO4 >= .1
NO3 >= 10
I run UV 24/7

350gph (300g system volume)

What do you mean over corrent nutrient? Just keep making sure I have measurable levels?

Phosphate is always .1
Nitrate bounces from .25 to 1 ppm (I'm currently testing every second day)
 

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I run UV 24/7

350gph (300g system volume)

What do you mean over corrent nutrient? Just keep making sure I have measurable levels?

Phosphate is always .1
Nitrate bounces from .25 to 1 ppm (I'm currently testing every second day)

UV is only affective on certain kinds of Dino, and the recomendation for those is to have a oversized UV.

Generally for dinos it is recommended to be anywhere from 4-10ppm Nitrate.
 

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I run UV 24/7

350gph (300g system volume)

What do you mean over corrent nutrient? Just keep making sure I have measurable levels?

Phosphate is always .1
Nitrate bounces from .25 to 1 ppm (I'm currently testing every second day)

Good to hear you have UV already. For 4 out of 5 species (not large cell amphidinium), UV does a great job keeping dinos in check if sized properly. The general recommendation against dinos is 1 watt per 3 gallons. Your turnover rate is fine. If you confirm they are not amphidinium, it might be worthwhile to temporarily plumb the UV to run to/from the display itself with soft hose. PITA I know; just saying.

Nutrients: unless you have a fair amount of GHA growing in there, I'd bring nitrates to >10 personally.
 
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TK_KW

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Good to hear you have UV already. For 4 out of 5 species (not large cell amphidinium), UV does a great job keeping dinos in check if sized properly. The general recommendation against dinos is 1 watt per 3 gallons. Your turnover rate is fine. If you confirm they are not amphidinium, it might be worthwhile to temporarily plumb the UV to run to/from the display itself with soft hose. PITA I know; just saying.

Nutrients: unless you have a fair amount of GHA growing in there, I'd bring nitrates to >10 personally.
Ok, I'll start dosing more nitrates. My uv is plumbed as follows(cor 20, to UV, to DT)
 
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TK_KW

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You need to get a positive ID of what kind of dino. There are a few kinds, and they have to be treated differently.
I'll try and get a better image tonight once I get home. I'll report back.
 
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Yes, I am very positive. One of the ones in the center you can even see the "beak" like feature that most dinos seem to have.

I actually think two different kinds. If I had to guess based off of the bleurry image I would say ostreopsis, and large cell amphidinium.

Best I could do teying to get photos. Thoughts? And what is my action plan?

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