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My Tank Thread
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I've looked really closely at those pictures and can't tell a definite type if dino, or if dinos are even there. A couple pics look like there might be something, but as @Lasse said, there can be other things that look like dinos when blurred in a picture.
IMO - both matbuilding cyanobacteria and matbuilding dinoflagellates always exist as individuals in a healthy aquarium. However - certain environmental triggers seems to make them to coming together and form this mats and something happens with their reproduction rate - it explode. The mats - as I understand - is mainly originates from various carbohydrates, hence both protective and can serve as energy storage. There is rather many observations indicate tha low nutrient concentrations (in aquarium) can be one of these environmental triggers. Some may say - not in my case - 0.1 ppm in PO4 and 1-2 ppm in NO3. Many of us see the measurements in this low nutrient concentrations as rock solid and of proven accuracy, I do not - I see it more like rocket science in order to get as reliable readings as possible in this low concentrations because we use this reading in order to adapt our tactic in fighting this matbuilding behavior among those organisms.
PO4 - Hannas ULR P and PO4 checkers is considered industry standard but we often forget that the accuracy is ±0,02 ppm. This means - if we read 0.03 ppm - the real result can be between 0.01 - 0.05 ppm (if everything else is spot on) And only this can send us to hell or heaven. 0.01 is too low and 0.05 for many the perfect level. Besides this one must also take into account systematic errors. As an example - I discovered that my newly purchased Hi-774 show + 0,08 ppm above my Triton results. I read 0.1 ppm on my reader - use a lot of GFO - did not get lower. My corals did not look as they should and I got Cyanobacteria/dinoflagellates in some place for the first time during 3.5 years. all indicate - nutrient starvation but i relay on my Hanna. After the triton test -I change tactic and withdraw 0.08 from my HI-774 readings and thing turn back to be good. Now I alter between 0.06 - 0.1 (Triton adapted values - 0.14 - 0.18 ppm my HI-774) This is probably not valid for all HI-774 checkers but I think it is a very good illustration that you should be critical to your own readings if you have signs showing something else than your actual reading. Must also say - that I had run very low in PO4 for nearly three months (probably around 0.01 - 0.00) and my reserves in sand, stone and other places of P was probably emptied.
NO3 - Unlike PO4 - is not the only N source for photosynthesis and growth of photosynthetic organism. NH3/NH4, NOx and amino acids are probably more energy efficient N sources than NO3. In spite of this - there is many strong indications and experiences that NO3 (or the lack of NO3) has a critical role in cyanobacteria/dinoflagellates mat forming. I use to say - a level around 2 ppm is sufficient but I think that I have to reconsider that to only be valid if you in a steady way dose NO3. In that case - you have a steady flux of NO3 through the system. If you do not dose - maybe 5 - 10 ppm is the level to hit.
To this, one must also speculate that at the same time there are disturbances in the ecosystem among the microorganisms - maybe causing inefficient nitrification. If so - the NO2 level can rise and affect your readings of NO3. Even low levels as 0.02 too 0.05 ppm NO2 will alrise the NO3 readings between 1 to 2 ppm - 2.5 to 5 ppm. (depending on test brand) If you read 2 ppm NO3 it could easily be 0 if you have traces of NO2 in the water. Therefore - 5 - 10 ppm (if you do not dose) can be a safe level - you know that it probably is NO3 present. However - the exact role for NO3 (if it is not as a nutrient) in this mat forming process is not known for me - but my experiences strongly indicate such a role.
It could be as bad as that a NO3 reading is not useful if you do not know if you have NO2 in the water or not
Sincerely Lasse
IMO - it is not so important what´s the primary agent - because IMO - the treatment tactic is more or less the same. I more and more address cyanobacteria/dinoflagellates infections instead of cyanobacteria or dinoflagellates infection.I still stand by saying dinos. I would post your pics on the dino thread, or @taricha could possibly give you an id.
I personally feel like in those pics i see cyano, diatoms, and dinos.
IMO - it is not so important what´s the primary agent - because IMO - the treatment tactic is more or less the same. I more and more address cyanobacteria/dinoflagellates infections instead of cyanobacteria or dinoflagellates infection.
Sincerely Lasse
I see procentrum almost certain. The circular pyrenoid in the middle is the tell I am seeing. But here is the ID guide.
What about blacking my tank out for three days?
that tell is not definitive. My amphidinium have strong pyrenoid also...The circular pyrenoid in the middle is the tell I am seeing. But here is the ID guide.
If it is the types you presume it to be. What actions do you recommend?that tell is not definitive. My amphidinium have strong pyrenoid also...
And I think the OPs dinos are a closer match to this. The 1 second video is the most persuasive to my eye.
What type of bacteria/product would you recommend, if I were to dose bacteria?In those situations - maybe adding bacteria can help but if so doo - it should only be bacteria - not any else compound as organic carbon. I would prefer to take "mulm" from another well working aquaria and mix in my not so well working aquaria - but stay away (man 1000 of miles) from other "excellent" solutions of unknown content
Sincerely Lasse
that tell is not definitive. My amphidinium have strong pyrenoid also...
And I think the OPs dinos are a closer match to this. The 1 second video is the most persuasive to my eye.
As living in Sweden - I´m not so familiar with which brands you have in the USWhat type of bacteria/product would you recommend, if I were to dose bacteria?
Well I'm in Canada......so it seems we are both lostAs living in Sweden - I´m not so familiar with which brands you have in the US
Sincerely Lasse