Cycling Tank, But High Nitrates

[Kuhn]

Hi! I'm new here and I'm also new to the hobby! I just received a used 30 gallon tank as of last week.
During the past week I have been cycling my tank as one should do when starting a new saltwater tank. Thing is, my Nitrates are through the roof!
I just got my Nitrates Hanna checker a couple of days ago so I only have about 3 days worth of Nitrate testing.

First Nitrate test: 15ppm
2nd test (yesterday) 20th of July: 23ppm
Today 21st of July: 39 ppm

I have 2 clowns currently (I know cycling with fish isn't good but they were given to me with the tank and it's all I have it was donated to me )
I may be over feeding them. So I started being more mindful of feeding.

My question is... because my tank is being cycled still... I shouldn't be doing any water changes right?
I was looking around on the other high Nitrate threads and noticed a lot of people suggesting a water change to resolve the issue. But I was also told to not do a water change if I'm cycling. So I'm not sure what to do.

I did just install a small HOB refugium with some chaeto and ceramic media. I heard the refugium can help remove Nitrates but I'm wondering if it's just going to be slow and if I should just stick it out.

What do you all think?
(Please keep in mind I'm super new so be easy on me thanks in advance)

 

[tankstudy]

I'd run an ammonia and nitrite test to see where they are at.

-If both are zero, at that point, I'd recommend a water change to bring your nitrates down to about 10-15 ppm.

-If they aren't zero, I'd let the bacteria continue to grow more to deal with the two until they zero out and then proceed with appropriate size water change.

I've kept clowns in 100 ppm nitrates before so it's not too big of concern, just don't do it for a long long time. I'd be more concerned about ammonia. Elevated levels of that will cause a lot of damage and headaches.

 

[ScubaFish802]

Since your tank is producing Nitrates it is 'cycled'
Since it is producing Nitrates now which is step 3/3 in the most basic explanation of the cycle the nitrate level will continue to rise without any export (in this case water changes).

You should be 100% good to go on beginning water changes

 

[Kuhn]

I'd run an ammonia and nitrite test to see where they are at.

-If both are zero, at that point, I'd recommend a water change to bring your nitrates down to about 10-15 ppm.

-If they aren't zero, I'd let the bacteria continue to grow more to deal with the two until they zero out and then proceed with appropriate size water change.

I've kept clowns in 100 ppm nitrates before so it's not too big of concern, just don't do it for a long long time. I'd be more concerned about ammonia. Elevated levels of that will cause a lot of damage and headaches.

Good to know! I'll test for Ammonia and Nitrite and go from there.

Thanks!!

 

[Kuhn]

Since your tank is producing Nitrates it is 'cycled'
Since it is producing Nitrates now which is step 3/3 in the most basic explanation of the cycle the nitrate level will continue to rise without any export (in this case water changes).

You should be 100% good to go on beginning water changes

Sounds great! So glad to hear that. Thank you so much!

 

[ScubaFish802]

Sounds great! So glad to hear that. Thank you so much!

If you're worried about any bacteria not yet attached to a surface in the water column, you could always pick up a bacteria additive at just about any fish store or online such as Microbacter 7, Seachem Stability, Dr Tims One & Only, etc.. and after the water change add the recommended amount to assist/replenish

 

[melbournedan]

Since your tank is producing Nitrates it is 'cycled'
Since it is producing Nitrates now which is step 3/3 in the most basic explanation of the cycle the nitrate level will continue to rise without any export (in this case water changes).

You should be 100% good to go on beginning water changes

how do you know if your test kit is picking up nitrates in form of nitrite or nitrite?

taken from google -

“The nitrate reduction test is based on the detection of nitrite and its ability to form a red compound when it reacts with sulfanilic acid to form a complex (nitrite-sulfanilic acid) which then reacts with a α-naphthylamine to give a red precipitate (prontosil), which is a water-soluble azo dye.”

 

[Reef.]

No point testing nitrates until your nitrites have peaked then dropped to zero, any nitrites in the water will register as very high nitrates, once nitrites and ammonia are zero, your nitrates will be lower, and then can be reduced with a water change.

 

[PeterEde]

Ammonia is the only concern.
My nitrates are at 44 as of today.
Nitrite and Nitrate many don't bother even testing.

 

[melbournedan]

No point testing nitrates until your nitrites have peaked then dropped to zero, any nitrites in the water will register as very high nitrates, once nitrites and ammonia are zero, your nitrates will be lower, and then can be reduced with a water change.

i’ve also read in more recent posts that nitrite kits are a waste of time and money and we shouldn’t even worry about testing them during a cycle, as soon as ammonia is zero and nitrates as showing go ahead and add something small.

so many different opinions. no idea what to follow.

 

[PeterEde]

Using live rock my tank cycled in 3 weeks or less.
High nitrates has been a problem since I started.

 

[melbournedan]

Ammonia is the only concern.

My nitrates are at 44 as of today.
Nitrite and Nitrate many don't bother even testing.

now this is the other side of the conversation.

i’ve tested zero ammonia with seneye, api and ammonia alert badges, so according to this way. i’d be fine to add 2 small clowns.

 

[PeterEde]

Ammonia is the only concern.

now this is the other side of the conversation.

i’ve tested zero ammonia with seneye, api and ammonia alert badges, so according to this way. i’d be fine to add 2 small clowns.

I added 3 chromis first. Cheaper crash test Dummies. All doing great still since week 3. Now 9 months down

 

[melbournedan]

Using live rock my tank cycled in 3 weeks or less.
High nitrates has been a problem since I started.

check out my build thread if you want any more info on this build, but in short i started it with a bottle of dr tim’s and ammonia at 2ppm, then another bottle of dr tim’s 1 week later. i’m using nano tech bio spheres and caribsea belize dryrock.

most recently (1week today) i added copepods and have been dosing 5ml phyto daily, seems to be quite the population building.

 

[melbournedan]

I added 3 chromis first. Cheaper crash test Dummies. All doing great still since week 3. Now 9 months down

yep this would be my ideal way to go about it, but it’s only a 15gal and the clowns will be my only live stock, not including cuc

 

[Reef.]

i’ve also read in more recent posts that nitrite kits are a waste of time and money and we shouldn’t even worry about testing them during a cycle, as soon as ammonia is zero and nitrates as showing go ahead and add something small.

so many different opinions. no idea what to follow.

Trouble is tho, you may think you have nitrates but not have any, the test could be recording the nitrites as nitrates.

 

[PeterEde]

Trouble is tho, you may think you have nitrates but not have any, the test could be recording the nitrites as nitrates.

and when the nitrite tests shows little to no nitrites as my tank does but No3 at 40+
I have been struggling with No3 for months. Dosing carbon has done very little.

 

[Reef.]

and when the nitrite tests shows little to no nitrites as my tank does but No3 at 40+
I have been struggling with No3 for months. Dosing carbon has done very little.

40 nitrates is not high, and carbon is not designed to remove nitrates, water changes are about the best way to reduce nitrates.