Diamondback CP

Humblefish

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Would like to hear from anyone who has used Diamondback's Chloroquine phosphate to treat for: Ich, velvet, brook or uronema. Positive or negative experiences. Please describe your QT setup in detail, how much CP you dosed, what you were treating for and how long, etc.

I personally tested their product for over 6 months on 22 fish with active infections of ich, velvet, brook & uronema before endorsing it. 100% success rate. I dosed @ 60mg/gal and treated in bare bottom/rockless QTs that I sterilized beforehand. CP will not work in a DT or any tank with rock/sand due to bacteria/biofilm degrading the medication.

What has me concerned is these confusing dosing instructions from them (awaiting feedback from them):
The typical treatment involves adding five to ten milligrams of Chloroquine per liter of water every five days for a minimum of four treatments. However, your veterinarian or aquarium specialist will provide more detailed instructions for treating your unique case.

Source: http://www.diamondbackdrugs.com/chloroquine/

CP is a "one and done treatment" with a dosage range of 10-15mg/L (40-60 mg/gal). The only reason to dose more than that is if the medication were being degraded and needed to be replenished, would could only be confirmed by using a spectrophotometer.
 

prsnlty

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Would like to hear from anyone who has used Diamondback's Chloroquine phosphate to treat for: Ich, velvet, brook or uronema. Positive or negative experiences. Please describe your QT setup in detail, how much CP you dosed, what you were treating for and how long, etc.

I personally tested their product for over 6 months on 22 fish with active infections of ich, velvet, brook & uronema before endorsing it. 100% success rate. I dosed @ 60mg/gal and treated in bare bottom/rockless QTs that I sterilized beforehand. CP will not work in a DT or any tank with rock/sand due to bacteria/biofilm degrading the medication.

What has me concerned is these confusing dosing instructions from them (awaiting feedback from them):


Source: http://www.diamondbackdrugs.com/chloroquine/

CP is a "one and done treatment" with a dosage range of 10-15mg/L (40-60 mg/gal). The only reason to dose more than that is if the medication were being degraded and needed to be replenished, would could only be confirmed by using a spectrophotometer.
That is interesting. Maybe they are thinking that people are going to dose it into a DT and not QT?

I asked my vet's office about them giving a script for anything having to do with the tank and I used this particular medication as a for instance and they said no. I might be looking for a new vet....
 

aykwm

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I also noticed that many run their QT 24/7/365 without breaking it down and disinfecting, maybe thats why. Also due to degradation from light.

Also further in the page there is this.
The water’s salinity level should be maintained under 14ppt, and the tank light should be left off during treatment.
Never heard of hypo with CP, it might effect how fast CP degrade?
 
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Humblefish

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Never heard of hypo with CP, it might effect how fast CP degrade?

Their write-up is full of inaccuracies. For example: "What Is Cryptocaryon? Cryptocaryon is a ciliated protozoan parasite of fresh water fish." :confused:

Freshwater ich is Ichthyophthirius, not Cryptocaryon. I think they just copy & pasted this info from someplace. Obviously, not R2R. ;)
 

prsnlty

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Their write-up is full of inaccuracies. For example: "What Is Cryptocaryon? Cryptocaryon is a ciliated protozoan parasite of fresh water fish." :confused:

Freshwater ich is Ichthyophthirius, not Cryptocaryon. I think they just copy & pasted this info from someplace. Obviously, not R2R. ;)
That's not good so how are we to hold any weight with their instructions on use and dosages? I guess people need to understand that their information is not correct and go buy whatever has worked here on the forum for those treating with it.
 

clsanchez77

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I asked my vet's office about them giving a script for anything having to do with the tank and I used this particular medication as a for instance and they said no. I might be looking for a new vet....

I know my vet can't help you but what convinced her to write me a script was when I showed her a photo of 7 dead fish all lined up. I was freezing them as they died until I had time to inspect them. They were all blue chromis. I now have 60 grams but it cost a fortune.
 
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Humblefish

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That's not good so how are we to hold any weight with their instructions on use and dosages? I guess people need to understand that their information is not correct and go buy whatever has worked here on the forum for those treating with it.

Their primary job is to ensure the CP they are selling is 99% pure or better via chemical analysis. I have every confidence in their chemists/pharmacists to do that.

But leave the dosage/treatment instructions to people like me (not saying I'm the only one) who have years of anecdotal experience (plus research) using the drug to eradicate external parasites.
 

prsnlty

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Their primary job is to ensure the CP they are selling is 99% pure or better via chemical analysis. I have every confidence in their chemists/pharmacists to do that.

But leave the dosage/treatment instructions to people like me (not saying I'm the only one) who have years of anecdotal experience (plus research) using the drug to eradicate external parasites.
I absolutely agree!
 

blkhwkz

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I have used Diamondback CP a few times now.
  • 29 gallon Marineland QT broken down and everything disinfected between uses, sponges thrown out.
  • Use 2 seeded sponges from my sump and a bottle of Biospira for every batch of fish I run through.
  • Filter is an AquaClear 50 gallon.
  • Only PVC in the QT and a clip for feeding nori if needed.
  • Marineland LED's for lighting.
  • Salinity kept at 35ppt (has crept up to 36ppt on occasion if I didn't keep up with top off.)
  • 2 Seachem ammonia badges
  • 150w Eheim Jager heater
  • Dosing has been 40mg/gal prophylactic, 60mg/gal for active infections. Hemdal, in his book, recommends 8mg/l prophylactic and 15mg/l for active infection for 14-30 days. I used your slightly higher prophylactic dosing.
  • Prophylactic treatment has been 30 days, one time was 10 days with purple tang and then it was moved to a sterile QT in another room due to lack eating. That PT ended up breaking out with ich in the DT after moving him due to lack of eating. I have bad luck with tangs..
  • DT is fallow for a few more weeks, all fish were put into QT with CP for 30 days, only loss was the PT since it would never eat. This PT is my only loss so far while using CP and was not CP related. Only the PT showed signs of ich, the other 5 fish are doing great and go back to the DT in 16 days.
  • Jar of CP is stored in a drawer down in the basement near the QT so it is not exposed to light.
Then again @Humblefish knew most of this since I was getting all my info from him and asking a ton of questions :)
 

MCooper

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I have used Diamondback CP a few times now.
  • 29 gallon Marineland QT broken down and everything disinfected between uses, sponges thrown out.
  • Use 2 seeded sponges from my sump and a bottle of Biospira for every batch of fish I run through.
  • Filter is an AquaClear 50 gallon.
  • Only PVC in the QT and a clip for feeding nori if needed.
  • Marineland LED's for lighting.
  • Salinity kept at 35ppt (has crept up to 36ppt on occasion if I didn't keep up with top off.)
  • 2 Seachem ammonia badges
  • 150w Eheim Jager heater
  • Dosing has been 40mg/gal prophylactic, 60mg/gal for active infections. Hemdal, in his book, recommends 8mg/l prophylactic and 15mg/l for active infection for 14-30 days. I used your slightly higher prophylactic dosing.
  • Prophylactic treatment has been 30 days, one time was 10 days with purple tang and then it was moved to a sterile QT in another room due to lack eating. That PT ended up breaking out with ich in the DT after moving him due to lack of eating. I have bad luck with tangs..
  • DT is fallow for a few more weeks, all fish were put into QT with CP for 30 days, only loss was the PT since it would never eat. This PT is my only loss so far while using CP and was not CP related. Only the PT showed signs of ich, the other 5 fish are doing great and go back to the DT in 16 days.
  • Jar of CP is stored in a drawer down in the basement near the QT so it is not exposed to light.
Then again @Humblefish knew most of this since I was getting all my info from him and asking a ton of questions :)

This is exactly how I did my qt
I have been using diamondback for years, not on the CP and they have never disappointed.
 

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Humblefish am I correct in thinking that rock in a quarantine tank will only degrade the CP if it has a biofilm on it? Asking since I have a jawfish in CP right now that is really stressed. I have some old rock and sand that has been dried for over a year. Would adding a little be OK?

Shelley
 
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Humblefish

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Humblefish am I correct in thinking that rock in a quarantine tank will only degrade the CP if it has a biofilm on it? Asking since I have a jawfish in CP right now that is really stressed. I have some old rock and sand that has been dried for over a year. Would adding a little be OK?

It's uncertain whether or not CP gets absorbed by rock the same way copper does. However, if we're talking just one small dry rock and you overdose CP slightly (60mg/gal) then I think you'll be OK.
 

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You have to get Diamondback CP from a vet right, are there other "brands" or generics? Which fish SHOULD NOT be treated with CP?

Thanks!
 

code4

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It's uncertain whether or not CP gets absorbed by rock the same way copper does. However, if we're talking just one small dry rock and you overdose CP slightly (60mg/gal) then I think you'll be OK.

Thanks, I had not thought about absorption.

Shelley
 

code4

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Also know these species are currently considered intolerant of CP: Wrasses, anthias and Hippo Tangs.
[/QUOTE]

Big Johnny, I copied this from another post. It is a quote from Humblefish. Not sure about the rest of your question.

Shelley
 

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@Humblefish, in your experience treating Uronema with CP, did the scars on the fish heal after treatment? I have had a green chromis with Uronema for almost 4 months. I do not believe he has an active infection any longer but wanted to put him thru the cp treatment. I did a freshwater dip, followed by about 40 minutes in accraflavin, followed by 19 days of 60mg/gallon of CP from Diamondback in a qt and have seen no change in his scars. He seems the same to me. During the 19 days I did 2 water changes and re-dosed the CP @60mg/gallon. I guess I'm asking if what I see is just scars that will heal?
 

boozeman27

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FYI, He is now out of CP and in a clean qt for observation. I can post some pictures when I get home in a bit. you have helped me with this fish in a previous post, it just took me awhile to get CP. I actually had to take him to my vet to get the script. That was an adventure lol
 
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Humblefish

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@boozeman27 It depends how soon you begin treatment after symptoms first show up. I've had chromis with early signs of uronema clear right up after 30 days in CP. However, some advanced cases I've treated the lesions got infected, required antibiotic treatment, etc. And even then the fish always had scars.

When treating uronema, you also want to food soak metronidazole because the disease can spread internally. In theory, using CP laced food should work as well but Chloroquine is bitter tasting. ;Vomit
 

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