Dino - Time to go to war

[rockstarta78]

Are you planning on dosing NO3 as well since you NO3 is 0?

 

[brandon429]

I started this merely to bring on Dino wars. I hope someone throws us a mess. It’s Dino fishing, asking for it though not directly in my tank particularly. Just to keep approaches separate for analysis, I’m on team murder your sandbed with hot tap water.

The challenge is fun and we fear no submitted challenge.

https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/to...nt-dino-invasions-not-seen-by-and-large-here/

for tanks say about 30 gallons and below manual war is all we need in nano reefs / claimed hypothesis null void soon see.

In the end even if I’m wrong what harm is there in earnestly helping someone battle whether we do nutrient dosing, nutrient restriction or in my case tap water war. At least peeps have stepped up. The sole win collected in there so far was by T’s nutrient dosing technique, good. We want the most after pics possible to check trending.

Taricha knowing what you know about veracity of species, is there in your view a species risk so gnarly it can resist:

Medical pathogen isolation-

Take out rocks blast rinse sep bucket
Treat rocks then externally with calculated peroxide mist; let sit power rinse again (surgically around corals if needed) reinstall only into an aquarium that has modeled actions from the sand rinse thread which is tap rinsing. Add a peroxide step...all this is skip cycle work. It’s blasting cells.

-prepare for repeat a few times. Nobody’s selling a one off, price of common hesitation. So let’s say up to 5 x repeat

Which species survives that

*though I have not studied speciation in dinos, going solely off wrecked tanked threads I don’t recall one beating us. Whichever species it is, we can claim rare.

As of 2017 I’m heavily into separating Dino actions by tank volume and increasing the physical attacks even above chemical considerations in tanks less than 30 gallons. We can rip clean a thirty pretty easy, much past that is big cost for the 5x hesitation price. Rocket blaster UV lights overdone is the price for large tank hesitation/claimed.


I’ve seen that some phase of all tank invasions involves the reefer watching it grow through a series of self imposed constraints. I simply do opposite so the pico reefs stay uninvaded. No pico reefs by and large are invaded and nano reef boards don’t have the same Dino issues large tank forums have, though we all shop same lfs.

 

[filbie70]

Are you planning on dosing NO3 as well since you NO3 is 0?

I am planning to dose NO3. I’m still waiting for my shipment of NaNO3. Should be here tomorrow or Friday. I have been adding frozen meaty food in the meantime to try to spike my Nitrates.

Just as an aside. I had an interesting reaction when I was killing aphasia with Aptasia X. I spread some on the rock that had the rust color. The rock turned white in that location when I turned the pump back on. Maybe just because the light was filtered but I’m up to trying anything right now as before the tank went dark I had rust color at the base of my Walt Disney. So, the war it on.

 

[rockstarta78]

@brandon429 I am REALLY REALLY tempted to try

murder your sandbed with hot tap water.

For me the manual removal along with more flow seem to be working. But the issue I am running into is, if I don't siphon the sand on religious basis, dino seem to come back. But I am trying to do my best with manual removal. Let's see where it lands me. My zoas are still very unhappy and so are my duncan and frogspawn. I think for me it started from the sandbed, but I couldn't be sure. The odd thing is, for last 4-5 weeks I have not seen dino on any rocks. All on the sand, which baffles me. I don't know why it is not spreading. Or is it that all dino on the sandbed are dead and just can't siphon out? I really don't get why it's only on the sand.

 

[rockstarta78]

I am planning to dose NO3. I’m still waiting for my shipment of NaNO3. Should be here tomorrow or Friday. I have been adding frozen meaty food in the meantime to try to spike my Nitrates.

Just as an aside. I had an interesting reaction when I was killing aphasia with Aptasia X. I spread some on the rock that had the rust color. The rock turned white in that location when I turned the pump back on. Maybe just because the light was filtered but I’m up to trying anything right now as before the tank went dark I had rust color at the base of my Walt Disney. So, the war it on.

Post a picture of your tank. I have noticed some of my rocks turned completely white as well when I was doing N-P dosing. There are no dino left on those white spots and when the GHA came, they didn't cover those white spots either. @taricha can tell you better then me, but if you continue with the dosing regiment you will never have dino again once it leaves your tank. I don't remember exactly who it was, but someone purposely reintroduced dino in their tank after dino was eradicate through N&P dosing, however, the newly introduced dino did not survive in the tank. Honestly speaking, I am done with ULNS. I don't think any good can come out of running ULNS. Even if you don't have Dino, ULNS requires lot of additional dosing (which in essence adds N&P) of other chemical to achieve good color and growth. Just my 0.2 cents

 

[brandon429]

heck I say you pull the whole bed out and go BB for the entire battle. Beat the dinos without that refuge in place, forego all the rinsing, and only input blast cleaned sand back in when the battle's done. Can easily rinse, dry and reuse your existing. vinegar and peroxide it a bit if concerned about vectoring but true drying would fix that too, they're not going to withstand true desiccation.

 

[rockstarta78]

If I pull all the sand out, I have no Dino left in the tank. LOL. Only thing to battle is some leftover GHA. So what do I do once the sand is pulled out? Wash it under tap water, let it dry out for couple of weeks, and put the sand back in? Wouldn't that cause a mini-cycle though?

 

[brandon429]

i want to link a huge thread only to show other's work in the matter before you do the cleaning. we meticulously collected deep bed dive events here, the point was to allow full fipping of tanks and no recycle sorry so long that's how we roll heh

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/


simple isolation of detritus is all we need to avoid recycling. When a rebuild had a recycle, they left detritus in somewhere though we detailed it there beforehand.

Feel free to change out with all new rinsed live sand if you want, Fiji pink contains no dinos. The sole point of that thread is making a sandbed neutral to our commands, we're never reacting to a sandbed or planning around one. We command them. can you repost a full tank shot lemme see how much overall surface area we have

 

[filbie70]

Post a picture of your tank. I have noticed some of my rocks turned completely white as well when I was doing N-P dosing. There are no dino left on those white spots and when the GHA came, they didn't cover those white spots either. @taricha can tell you better then me, but if you continue with the dosing regiment you will never have dino again once it leaves your tank. I don't remember exactly who it was, but someone purposely reintroduced dino in their tank after dino was eradicate through N&P dosing, however, the newly introduced dino did not survive in the tank. Honestly speaking, I am done with ULNS. I don't think any good can come out of running ULNS. Even if you don't have Dino, ULNS requires lot of additional dosing (which in essence adds N&P) of other chemical to achieve good color and growth. Just my 0.2 cents

I was under the impression that they don’t leave. I assumed the theory was they just settle down and stop blooming which creates the toxicity. My theory was this stops when they have phosphates and nitrates to feed vs being purely photosynthetic. I was reading about red tide events that occur in the ocean and that it isn’t completely understood but light changes, temp changes, phosphate spikes that later deplete after being consumed, etc can trigger a bloom. I honestly don’t know. I’m doing the black out assuming they won’t reproduce without the lighting. But the theory is they are now consuming the bacteria in my tank because they don’t have light. I’m going to limit my lighting to my blues and UVs only based on the theory that every LFS I have been in operated under blues as they are no looking to stimulate growth only hold until sold. I’ll turn my T5s back on once I get through this and have my NO3 to 3-5 and PO4 in the .01-.03 range. My plan is to buy Chaeto once I get to 5 ppm NO3.

 

[filbie70]

Post a picture of your tank. I have noticed some of my rocks turned completely white as well when I was doing N-P dosing. There are no dino left on those white spots and when the GHA came, they didn't cover those white spots either. @taricha can tell you better then me, but if you continue with the dosing regiment you will never have dino again once it leaves your tank. I don't remember exactly who it was, but someone purposely reintroduced dino in their tank after dino was eradicate through N&P dosing, however, the newly introduced dino did not survive in the tank. Honestly speaking, I am done with ULNS. I don't think any good can come out of running ULNS. Even if you don't have Dino, ULNS requires lot of additional dosing (which in essence adds N&P) of other chemical to achieve good color and growth. Just my 0.2 cents

I just took the plastic off. Lights out knocked them back fairly well. It is amazing how the stand out in this picture. Within the first 2 mins of turning the lights on I could see them turning from a dull grey to rust color. The grayish color on the rock with the chalice are the Dino’s. I’m going to throttle the lights until I see that I’m over stressing the corals. I can’t get my NO3 to move. PO4 is at .03 now.

 

[filbie70]

Day 1 with lights on after 3 day black-out. Rust color return but it was definitely knocked back. Hanna reads PO4 at .04. NO3 dosed to 5ppm.

 

[rockstarta78]

Day 1 with lights on after 3 day black-out. Rust color return but it was definitely knocked back. Hanna reads PO4 at .04. NO3 dosed to 5ppm.

I think you are on the right track. Siphon some out . Use a net so you ate only catching the dino and drain the water in the sump. No need to do WC.

 

[filbie70]

I’m starting to believe the theories on spectrum. I ran my T5s yesterday and the blooms were rust colored. I went back to my original plan and I’m only running blue and UV on my Radions. They have been on for 3 hrs now. I flipped the T5s on and the Dino’s are still grey. My Radion setting is in the pic.

My coral is in full polyp extension now too.

 

[filbie70]

I had a scare today. I saw what I thought was white precipitate on my live rock. Test Ca, 400 ppm. Tested Mg, 3600 ppm. I turned my dosing pump off immediately. I had switched from Red Sea to BRS Mg and didn’t change my dose. I was sure that was the problem.. We left to take our daughter shopping. I was sweating it. I didn’t see burnt tips on anything. When we came home 4 hrs later, I retested. As soon as I drew the sample, I knew what I did. Red Sea is 2ml, I put in 5ml. The precipitate is my coralline dying off. 3 days dark, 3 days under blue and uv only. My sand is white now. I’m going to increase my spectrum tomorrow to see if I get rust coming back.

 

[rockstarta78]

So I noticed something odd yesterday. Now it seems like my sand is getting covered in GHA. It's like I am getting a nice GHA carpet growing on my sand. Which is very weird. I think I am going to eventually take my sand out and wash it like @brandon429 suggested.

 

[brandon429]

agreed that's possible, we're dosing plant feed in many of these tanks versus rinsing. Not that its bad, clearly when in good balance adding fertilizers can work if someone is choosing to boost competition vs attack the target. two ways to skin a cat lol

nutrient boosting still works if we still do a rip cleaning/mass removal event. Plenty of pods and animals hide up in the live rocks before they're lifted out, and they repopulate sand. I have pics and vid of my pods before and after rinsings, not a huge impact.

 

[rockstarta78]

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO here's what I have been noticing lately. I don't see any dino in my tank. The rocks are all turning white or green. There is NO visible sign on dino on the sand either. Now if there's Dino hidden under the sand, I haven't seen that either. My sand is covered in GHA. I am going to start manually remove the GHA from the sand bed by siphoning. I think, now either @mcarroll or @brandon429 can correct me if I am wrong, the GHA started growing on the sand because it overtook the Dino which basically killed the dino strand, unless the dino is hidden somewhere. I am leaning towards Dino is probably gone from my system.

Now here's something odd that I just realized last night. I user SBReefLight 32" ProTimer. For some reason, when I used the attached leg mount the leg was under the waterline by about half an inch. I recently replaced that leg mount with a DIY leg mount which does not have any contact with the water. The old leg seem rusty when I removed it and something tells me the rust was messing with the water chemistry. Ever since I removed the old mount the dino seem to be dying. this could be very coincidental since around the same time I started dosing H2O2, Vibrant (twice a week), and MB7. I can't say for sure that the rusty leg mounts had anything to do with the water chemistry, but ever since I removed it, things are not looking as bad. Could just be coincident.

 

[mcarroll]

It's hard to say – it's stinks to have confounding things happen like that.

 

[rockstarta78]

It's hard to say – it's stinks to have confounding things happen like that.

I don't believe for a second my dino is gone. Just because I don't see them does not mean those @@#^^%s are gone. I am willing to bet that they are hiding somewhere. But for now I will take the GHA covered sand bed.

 

[mcarroll]

I would recommend a Poly-Filter™ if you really suspect contamination....could tell something....won't hurt in any event.