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I have the 55 watt version. It is external also, but you should install such that the flow in and out are pointing up so that the unit stays flooded with water if flow is lost (power outage, pump malfunction, etc).@dwest, Which model jebao do you have, and what do you mean by making sure the tube is always covered with water? Meaning - Are you saying it is designed to run submerged? The other brands are all external from what I can tell.
@reeferfoxx,
He is a picture of a new sample. Sorry for the bad images and video, my phone mount has not arrived yet, so I'm attempting to hand-hold the phone. I do agree there are different types after looking longer at the new sample. Is the best course of action to treat for the main variety?
Also, I'm starting to look for a UV sterilizer, I don't plan to leave it permanently set up so I'm wondering if there is a 'go-to' manufacturer that has had good success?
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These are prorocentrum.Any help in identifying type of Dino? Cant seem to find any pics that match mine.
These are prorocentrum.
Yeah it does. You'll want to run gac for a month.Thank you. Looks like reading everything that UV light and increasing nitrates and phos are the cure? My system has been ULN for months now. Along with manual removal? Also I quit running my carbon a few weeks ago (I use the high quality carbon from BRS) does prorocentrum release toxins? I have not lost any corals or fish as of yet.
Yeah it does. You'll want to run gac for a month.
Fell for the BRS hype and bought the UV they sell. Two of the corals I lost cost just as much as the UV unit so the money spent is OK as long as the dinos in the microscope picture I posted are free swimming (does everybody agree that these are prorocentrum?) this should do it. If it does work I'll have to buy new fish & coral to restock my 67 gallon tank. Maybe it will help to prevent future problems. If I do get a bigger tank (Red Sea Reefer 525 XL or ELOS 120) this will be piped in permanent. I so hope this works out and finality ends this issue with dinos.
I be never had a negative response raising nitrates by 5 ppm and phosphate by 0.1 ppm in a single dose. I used to dose much slower on a daily basis, but have had a doser failure. Now I add as needed directly to desired level.What is the most NO3 or PO4 should be increased at a time, or in a day?
Im still running GAC heavy almost a year after my initial outbreak...Thank you!
Thanks again, I decided to go with the Aqua UV 57 Watt. It was on sale yesterday, so I saved a few dollars, plus I remembered we will be building a pond in the backyard in a few months so I can repurpose it there once the dinos are gone. No I just need to figure out how I'm going to plum this thin in the DT.I have the 55 watt version. It is external also, but you should install such that the flow in and out are pointing up so that the unit stays flooded with water if flow is lost (power outage, pump malfunction, etc).
I didn't see ostreopsis in these so, scratch that. I do think your other one is amphidinium. Not very active, imo. I think the coolia is some what suppressing it's ability to flourish. However, i'm no expert. I would start with UV and the regular method of getting nutrients in line.
I have one of those too. You’ll be happy.Thanks again, I decided to go with the Aqua UV 57 Watt. It was on sale yesterday, so I saved a few dollars, plus I remembered we will be building a pond in the backyard in a few months so I can repurpose it there once the dinos are gone. No I just need to figure out how I'm going to plum this thin in the DT.
I start it today and If i got good results then I am going to share it and let the other do the sameYou are more than welcome to experiment on your own accord. I will say many here didn't see success with vibrant other than the owner of this forum. He had a rare strain of dino called gambridiscus and vibrant was the only thing that worked for him. It wasn't a quick fix but a 4-6 month process of dosing.
If hair algae and cyano are growing, let the tank be. I would leave it alone and not do anything until the hair algae starts falling off the rocks. At that point you'll want to manually remove it but dont perform a water change. Limited to no water changes will allow the tank to correct its environment. Try that and see what happens. Just feed the fishSoo alage is back againnnnn After being gone for one and 1/2 weeks, I added phytoplankton daily, 6k copepods, raised nutrients, and added cheap uv sterlizer and stirred sand at night. Any suggestions I have what is believe coolia sticking to sand only. I have alot of green hair alage and some cyano growing in spots. Should u upgrade Uv sterlizer I bought the green killing machine for 69 gallon tank.
Yeah sure! Good luck!I start it today and If i got good results then I am going to share it and let the other do the same
You know what I did a water change because when I tested no3 20 po4 .12 I thought the nitrates were a little high so I did 5 gallons. I may have screwed my self. But I have green hair alage growing all over the glass at this poi t I feel it cant be much longer lolIf hair algae and cyano are growing, let the tank be. I would leave it alone and not do anything until the hair algae starts falling off the rocks. At that point you'll want to manually remove it but dont perform a water change. Limited to no water changes will allow the tank to correct its environment. Try that and see what happens. Just feed the fish