Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[Manose]

I finally got a chance to get my algae under a microscope:

I need help with an id please

My tank is looking way better after:
adding a 55w uv
stopping constant water changes
feeding a little more
adding some GAC
I am wonder if I should remove my chaetomorpha and start it later?

 

[dantimdad]

I would remove it at this point.

 

[Manose]

I would remove it at this point.

I agree as it is just sucking my nutrients out.

 

[taricha]

probably doesn't matter, but I'd keep the chaeto personally - even if I scaled the amount down. Chaeto is a good guy. You want it, and the sorts of micro-communities that it supports to be well established in the system.
We're not upping nutrients just for nutrient's sake. We're trying to establish good guys.

 

[OpenOcean33]

So ramped up my silicates today to 1gtt/gallon. 65 drops = .20ppm my goal is 1ish right now. Will maintain this for one week and see if i see increases, if not will increase maybe according to what silicates i can read. Keeping you guys updated no diatoms yet with the slow increasing ramping of two week worth of low dosing also no detectable readings per sailfurt test (i know less reliable maybe but didn't have the cash for hannah).

 

[Manose]

probably doesn't matter, but I'd keep the chaeto personally - even if I scaled the amount down. Chaeto is a good guy. You want it, and the sorts of micro-communities that it supports to be well established in the system.
We're not upping nutrients just for nutrient's sake. We're trying to establish good guys.

I would love to keep it cause it is going to be a nightmare to take it all out

 

[Pacmann84]

Need some advice. I’ve been battling procterum for months and months now. I almost can’t do it anymore. I’ve raised nutrients, bought the UV sterilizer, done everything. Right when I think I have the Dino’s at bay, they come right back. I struggle with keeping phosphate up. But I try and stay on top of it as much as I can. I’m not enjoying my tank as I once was. Can anyone help me address my specific case before I throw in the towel for good?

 

[taricha]

Need some advice. I’ve been battling procterum for months and months now. I almost can’t do it anymore. I’ve raised nutrients, bought the UV sterilizer, done everything. Right when I think I have the Dino’s at bay, they come right back. I struggle with keeping phosphate up. But I try and stay on top of it as much as I can. I’m not enjoying my tank as I once was. Can anyone help me address my specific case before I throw in the towel for good?

If you have microscope, smartphone camera, UV, good test kits, and a little patience - then send me a PM if you'd like - so as not to clutter the thread with a bunch of minute details.
We'll give it a go.

 

[SteveO83]

You are pulling tank in multiple opposing directions simultaneously, and I'm not sure you've got a correct ID on your pest.
You say amphidinium, but that it's covering your corals. That's pretty atypical. Got microscope pics, or at least tank pics of what's on corals?
If your corals are getting covered, it's probably a type that goes into the water, so UV is going to be a powerful short- term weapon.
Elevating N & P (and reverse that order P then N) is to grow algae competitors. It should be done by dosing inorganic forms - not by heavy feeding. This is the thesis of this thread. Grow other things, replace and outcompete the dinos.
Your N P ratio is so heavy towards N and so low on P, that in itself may stress corals - separate from any dino effects.
Algaecides h2o2, dinox, bleach, ozone, vibrant and on and on etc... are the opposite path. One this thread doesn't recommend because it's never fully effective and often doesn't allow competition to establish, so the dinos have no obstacle to take over again.

If you must go that route, vibrant seems the most effective and sane option in that direction. That thread is quite informative.

When we "throw everything" at a problem, we're just chasing our own tails.

Heres the photos of it on the corals

 

[Kaleb W Bellamy]

Hey guys help me out here tell me what this is so I can start taking care of it.

 

[Pennywise the Clown]

Three months after my outbreak and for the first time I cannot see any trace of dinos in my display. A combination of raising nutrients, a powerful UV, 5 micron filter socks and reducing my lighting duration has done the trick.

 

[nim6us]

Just wanted to throw out a quadruple thumbs up to Dino X for treatment. I had been fighting dinos for 3-4 months, it was really disheartening. With 5 treatments of Dino X I have a lovely white sandbed again. The only thing I noticed was around the 4th-5th treatment my softies receded and were general unhappy, also 1 trochus snail died, don't know if it was a coincidence but all things considered happy to have my gorgeous tank back! Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

[OpenOcean33]

Just wanted to throw out a quadruple thumbs up to Dino X for treatment. I had been fighting dinos for 3-4 months, it was really disheartening. With 5 treatments of Dino X I have a lovely white sandbed again. The only thing I noticed was around the 4th-5th treatment my softies receded and were general unhappy, also 1 trochus snail died, don't know if it was a coincidence but all things considered happy to have my gorgeous tank back! Thanks for all the help everyone!

I have to say mine did the same but lost a monti, stopped and 2 weeks later it re appeared, come back with an update please and let us know, also what kind of dinos donyou have ?

 

[Jonreefer]

i tried DinoX and not sure if it helped but the 2 times I tried it I lost a mushroom each time the same way. it just grew a split to the mouth and then melted away

 

[._Z_.]

Does amphidinium grow on hair algae? After installing UV and seeing ostreopsis recede, my tank just got taken over again by other strains.

I can’t tell if I have amphidinium, prorocentrum or coolio at this point.

This sample was pulled from hair algae on rocks

The sample below is off of the sand

Have videos too. Just don’t know the best way to upload

 

[saltyhog]

Not sure what the small round one is but it looks like you still have some ostreopsis on the hair algae. I bet the guys here can ID the other one.

 

[Dj City]

20 long frag tank.
Just set this up today.
The light you see is coming from the bare bottom 40 breeder qt tank above it.
I have a GalaxyHydro 156w led on the way to light the frag tank up. I have an Aqueon Quietflow hob rated for 50 gallons.
I have a mp10 on the top right and a Tunze 6105 on the bottom left under the eggcrate.
I'm using 2 little fishes Stax rocks for live rock and it doubles as a stand to raise the eggcrate off the bottom of the tank. I added a bunch of bio spira and microbacter7 to start the cycle.
I think I will get some miracle mud or fiji mud for this frag tank. I have Dinos in my 110 gallon DT and I have some nice corals. I'm setting up a brand new 180 gallon to replace the 110 gal. the corals from the 110 will go into the frag tank after a good dip and new frag plugs where appropriate.
Maybe if I can get enough biodiversity in the frag tank, the dinos will be starved out and I can add them to the new build.

Anyone have any ideas, comments, suggestions or warnings for me?

 

[Jonreefer]

hopefully the UV puts the nail in the coffin. I have them to where they are just a little bit of strands on the rocks here and there. I got a 24w green machine for my 40B. So hopefully thats enough to put them down for good.

 

[SteveO83]

You are pulling tank in multiple opposing directions simultaneously, and I'm not sure you've got a correct ID on your pest.
You say amphidinium, but that it's covering your corals. That's pretty atypical. Got microscope pics, or at least tank pics of what's on corals?
If your corals are getting covered, it's probably a type that goes into the water, so UV is going to be a powerful short- term weapon.
Elevating N & P (and reverse that order P then N) is to grow algae competitors. It should be done by dosing inorganic forms - not by heavy feeding. This is the thesis of this thread. Grow other things, replace and outcompete the dinos.
Your N P ratio is so heavy towards N and so low on P, that in itself may stress corals - separate from any dino effects.
Algaecides h2o2, dinox, bleach, ozone, vibrant and on and on etc... are the opposite path. One this thread doesn't recommend because it's never fully effective and often doesn't allow competition to establish, so the dinos have no obstacle to take over again.

If you must go that route, vibrant seems the most effective and sane option in that direction. That thread is quite informative.

When we "throw everything" at a problem, we're just chasing our own tails.

So 2 days with the lights cut to half the schedule and still blowing things off multiple times after I get home. This is right after getting home and just fed the fish. Nothing else

 

[Dj City]

So 2 days with the lights cut to half the schedule and still blowing things off multiple times after I get home. This is right after getting home and just fed the fish. Nothing else

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but...
Lights cut to half schedule, lights cut to half intensity or lights cut completely off will not help at all. Not one little bit.
It might look nicer for a day or two but nothing about lights is going to help.
It's not even a band-aid.