I too took all my sand out and went barebottom...no more dinos since then.
Did you remove it all at once?
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I too took all my sand out and went barebottom...no more dinos since then.
I focused on removing all sand based dinos regardless of how much sand went with them (well not nesicarilly regardless, i didnt revove enough sand to cause nitrogen cycle issues) at least weekly, sometimes twice a week while ramping up silicate doseing and maintaining no3 and po4 slightly elevated, I also switched back to kalk in my top off to maintain alk and ph. I didnt return the sand right away. I waited at least a monthor so b4 slowly adding it back.Im considering removing my sand to battle sand-based amphidinium. I have a leopard wrasse so i cant really remove it all so i was thinking of doing half and replacing it with new sand and then doing the other half a couple days or so later and replacing it. Does this approach make sense or does it half to all be removed at once and stay gone
yep. All good interventions. (got a separate thread on Dr Tim's Waste Away vs dinos too, as it's more speculative. Also, The more I dig into W.A. the more I think it's a complex mix to do with elevating nutrients. Bottled bacteria products are a bit hard to unravel.)Next, every tool (aside from Dr Tims) you describe above sounds like standard protocol that this thread (in my reading) advocates.
Can someone identify these jerks for me, please? I’m having difficulty doing so.
I'm pretty sure I am going to remove at least some of my sand this weekend. My mind is starting to lean in that direction, I am just so tired of dealing with this stuff (two years+) and I just cannot keep phosphate in the water column.
My only real concern is I never flattened the bottom of my rocks. Should I put some egg crate or something under the few points that touch the glass to spread the load a bit? I can place rubble around to hide most of it I think.
Oddly, they didn’t move at all. I did take videos of them, but it was as if I was looking at a photo because there was no movement at all.For your next round, videos (showing movement) can really help with ID. Did these swim around as if they were tethered by a string on the pointy end? Still, the picture is fairly conclusive.
I will increase my dosage of nitrate and begin dosing phosphate. I have been keeping them at ~8ppm (nitrate) and ~0.01-0.05ppm (phosphate).a) Dose nitrates and phosphates up to at least 10 and .1 and feel free to go higher.
I guess I will be placing an order for a UV sterilizer. I should never have sold mine. Ugh.b) UV run to/from affected DISPLAY tank. (Not sump, ostreos don't like to be there) 1 watt per 3 gallons. Slow rate flow.
I have been dosing a half-dose of both AcroPower and CoralAmino, so I will discontinue that..
c) No amino dosing at all. For a long time.
I scrape the glass daily, which I hate doing because the strands get wrapped around the corals in my SPS-only grow-out tank. I lost a Hawkin's Acropora echinata today.d) Manual removal so they reach the UV or get exported out of tank
I have spare media reactors, so I guess I will hook one up to run carbon.e) Run GAC. They are toxic and this helps remove.
I discontinued GFO a couple of months ago, and I do not dose anything other than ESV three-part. I do have a carbon dioxide scrubber connected to my skimmer, so I will lower the water level in the skimmer to a point where it skims dry or not at all.f) Remove reduce anything you use to reduce nutrient in tank. NO GFO, NO CARBON DOSING, dry skim, short refugium light schedule etc.
These are ostreopsis as already mentioned.Can someone identify these jerks for me, please? I’m having difficulty doing so.
Pretty happy! Dinos all gone from the display! Took months of work, put a dent in my wallet, wiped out nearly all my corals in the process and borderline traumatized me (dino PTSD). But I beat them in the display.
I noticed that the Ostreopsis that I have does not seem to go into the water column at night. If I look into my tank anywhere in the timeframe outside of my photoperiod, they are still stung out from the walls. Will a UV sterilizer still be beneficial?
Also, I have a 40g breeder that is connected to a 30g sump. Do I get the sterilizer based on watts for the display or the total volume? In other words, if I get one based on the display volume, then a 15w will suffice. However, based on the total volume, I’d purchase a 25w.
I have only SPS corals in the system that I’m battling dinoflagellates in. Is there a benefit to moving the corals into another system and just tearing down the current one? That was the plan anyway; I’m downsizing due to living restrictions. Or would that just cause the issue to spread to the system in which I’d place the corals?
Almond shaped, looks like ostreopsis.Can someone identify these jerks for me, please? I’m having difficulty doing so.
Oddly, they didn’t move at all. I did take videos of them, but it was as if I was looking at a photo because there was no movement at all.
I will increase my dosage of nitrate and begin dosing phosphate. I have been keeping them at ~8ppm (nitrate) and ~0.01-0.05ppm (phosphate).
I guess I will be placing an order for a UV sterilizer. I should never have sold mine. Ugh.
I have been dosing a half-dose of both AcroPower and CoralAmino, so I will discontinue that.
I scrape the glass daily, which I hate doing because the strands get wrapped around the corals in my SPS-only grow-out tank. I lost a Hawkin's Acropora echinata today.
I have spare media reactors, so I guess I will hook one up to run carbon.
I discontinued GFO a couple of months ago, and I do not dose anything other than ESV three-part. I do have a carbon dioxide scrubber connected to my skimmer, so I will lower the water level in the skimmer to a point where it skims dry or not at all.
Thank you for your assistance—it's greatly appreciated as I now have a game plan.