Hi Reef2Reef,
Cross posting from nano-reef forum because I LOVE the help I Get from Reef2Reef. I that's okay.
I'd like to start a journal on this build because I've gotten tons of help through these forums with great advice and perspectives, and I'm hoping that I can offer the same platform and share a bit of my journey into reefing.
Traditionally, I would start these journals, stay active for a few weeks then forget about it. I'm hoping that I can keep up with the updates/entries. Does anyone have any tips/hints to keep these journal entries interesting?
I guess I'll start by introducing myself! My name is Danny, and I'm 27 years old. I live on the east side of Vancouver Island, BC, Canada! I've got about seven years of freshwater experience and two months of saltwater experience.
MY TANK
Over the first two months, I've been tediously searching for second-hand items to start my saltwater nano reef. I have the Fluval Evo 13.5 Aquarium, and it comes with the stock light and pump. I bought dry rock and threw in some frozen shrimp as an ammonia source.
I used some leftover egg crates to build a makeshift chamber media basket. I used this Polydoh Moldable Plastic to create a mini lid for the feeding hole that I'm very proud of creating. I mixed my saltwater using Red Sea Coral Pro Salt Mix for Aquarium 55-Gallon Bucket and RODI water using Aquatic Life RO Buddie Four Stage. I aimed for 1.025 salinity but got 1.024. I believe this was caused by not heating my RODI water first.
I ordered a MLW-10 Jebao from Alibaba because I wanted something with a thin profile, and I've ordered lights from 21LEDUSA with the guidance of other fellow Nano-Reef members. Two Actinic Blue 1ft bars.
Built the stand using 2x4s and compressed wood board. I painted it using white spray paint.
JOURNEY
I then realized that I was currently experiencing what people called the "ugly" phase. Dark brown diatoms started to cover the dry rock, and the water was still cloudy. Was I in trouble? Should I start scrubbing and perform a water change? I left it. I followed the guidance from aquarist veterans and just left it.
I tested the parameters and found that even three months after I started the cycle, my ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates had high values (NH3: 8.0ppm, NO2: 2.0ppm, NO3: 5.0ppm). I took out the rotting shrimp and allowed my cycle to continue.
One week later...
I found a local reefer through Canreef, and he invited me to his garage display room. We had a great conversation, and I left with a few easy beginner corals to introduce to my aquarium. I'll list them at the end of this post.
Introduction of coral in the aquarium
I used a 30-minute drip acclimation method that I've done with my freshwater fish, and this seemed to do the trick.
So far, the corals look happy and are opening up nicely. The wavemaker is move the water quite well at 500 gallons/hr.
Things I'm working on
Coral List
Posted March 30, 2022
UPDATE -
A few things that have occurred since I last posted:
https://21ledusa.com/products/453nm-actinic-blue-reefbar-aquarium-led-light-9w-ft
and I have the stock light. I want to use the NICREW dual timer until I get my reef-pi setup. My question is about the voltage and what my capabilities will be. I also bought a "3 light power supply" from 21LEDUSA that I don't know the voltage but it would be enough to power 3 of their lights. Will this be enough to run the stock light + 2 LED bars? My apologies - I'm not well versed in electronics.
Posted April 1, 2022
UPDATE -
I nearly flooded my home. I made the mistake of placing the output tube of the ATO deep into Chamber 2 and after the ATO turned on and the pump turned off, it created a siphon and about 1 gallon of water went into the reservoir and spilled out onto the floor. It is now out of the water above Chamber 1
The LED lights came in from 21LEDUSA and they are beautiful. All siliconed up and ready. Thank you @DevilDuck for the advice. I check the powersupply that currently powers the stock LED is it's rated with the below specifications:
Model SW-135150
INPUT: 100-240V AC
59/60 Hz 0.7A
OUTPUT: 13.5 VDC 1500mA
The specifications of the LED from 21LEDUSA are:
- Input voltage: AC 85-265V 50-60Hz (Power Supply converts to 12V for bar)
- Power consumption: 9W
The powersupply came unmarked by the power CORD says 10A 250V.
Posted April 7, 2022
-UPDATE
21LEDUSA lights to be on all day from 12pm-10pm at 30%
Stock lights to be on from 2pm - 6 pm at 100%
Things I noticed:
I'm looking for a clean up crew and I've seen some examples of what people hold for this tank, what is your favourite CUC?
Posted January 8
-UPDATE
It's been some time so I thought I do an update.
The aquarium has been running since last March and here is what I found out.
I also had a battle with cyano which I thought might have been coralline algae but from a closer inspection, it definitely was cyano. I'm doing about 10-15% waterchange bi weekly.
Any tips from anyone? Welcome to any advice.
Posted Monday at 03:01 PM
-UPDATE
Danny,
P.S. I know it's late but I JUST ordered a master api reef testing kit. I'm going to test for phosphate, calcium, alkalinity, etc.
Also, i cleaned out most of the "cyano". I'm certain it's cyano today, it's fluffy but only was able to remove using a toothbrush.
-PHOTO UPDATE
1. Scrunched up Toadstool Leather Coral:
2. Kandy Kane Coral splitting and growing but the heads are not bulbous like they were previously
3. Purple Green Euphyllia Hammer is not out like it was originally
4. Even the GSP is not looking great
5. Whole tank shot:
I've gone ahead and did a 50% water change, adjusted the salinity to 1.025 and dimmed the lights to 50% intensity. Removed the "white 16K" led reefbar and left the other 2 blue actinic blue led lights plus the stock fluval light.
I'll update params when I get my kit.
..
.
.
.
.
I did a water change. The parameter kit came in today and guess what!
Ca 460
Ph 8.0
Alk 8.0!!
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0.25
I'm using Red Sea Coral Pro Marine Salt and was expecting alk to be 12. I'm going to test the bucket and see what base parameters I get.
And now you're all caught up!
Thank you for reading.
Cross posting from nano-reef forum because I LOVE the help I Get from Reef2Reef. I that's okay.
I'd like to start a journal on this build because I've gotten tons of help through these forums with great advice and perspectives, and I'm hoping that I can offer the same platform and share a bit of my journey into reefing.
Traditionally, I would start these journals, stay active for a few weeks then forget about it. I'm hoping that I can keep up with the updates/entries. Does anyone have any tips/hints to keep these journal entries interesting?
I guess I'll start by introducing myself! My name is Danny, and I'm 27 years old. I live on the east side of Vancouver Island, BC, Canada! I've got about seven years of freshwater experience and two months of saltwater experience.
MY TANK
Over the first two months, I've been tediously searching for second-hand items to start my saltwater nano reef. I have the Fluval Evo 13.5 Aquarium, and it comes with the stock light and pump. I bought dry rock and threw in some frozen shrimp as an ammonia source.
I used some leftover egg crates to build a makeshift chamber media basket. I used this Polydoh Moldable Plastic to create a mini lid for the feeding hole that I'm very proud of creating. I mixed my saltwater using Red Sea Coral Pro Salt Mix for Aquarium 55-Gallon Bucket and RODI water using Aquatic Life RO Buddie Four Stage. I aimed for 1.025 salinity but got 1.024. I believe this was caused by not heating my RODI water first.
I ordered a MLW-10 Jebao from Alibaba because I wanted something with a thin profile, and I've ordered lights from 21LEDUSA with the guidance of other fellow Nano-Reef members. Two Actinic Blue 1ft bars.
Built the stand using 2x4s and compressed wood board. I painted it using white spray paint.
JOURNEY
I then realized that I was currently experiencing what people called the "ugly" phase. Dark brown diatoms started to cover the dry rock, and the water was still cloudy. Was I in trouble? Should I start scrubbing and perform a water change? I left it. I followed the guidance from aquarist veterans and just left it.
I tested the parameters and found that even three months after I started the cycle, my ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates had high values (NH3: 8.0ppm, NO2: 2.0ppm, NO3: 5.0ppm). I took out the rotting shrimp and allowed my cycle to continue.
One week later...
I found a local reefer through Canreef, and he invited me to his garage display room. We had a great conversation, and I left with a few easy beginner corals to introduce to my aquarium. I'll list them at the end of this post.
Introduction of coral in the aquarium
I used a 30-minute drip acclimation method that I've done with my freshwater fish, and this seemed to do the trick.
So far, the corals look happy and are opening up nicely. The wavemaker is move the water quite well at 500 gallons/hr.
Things I'm working on
- What to feed the corals
- What is too much light?
- What is the ideal light period?
- Is morning moonlight a thing?
- How badly will the pulsing xenia or GSP grow over my rock
Coral List
- Pulsing Xenia
- Toadstool Leather coral
- Purple Green Euphyllia Hammer
- Green Star Polyps
- Green Trumpet coral
- Aussie Duncan Coral
- Kenya Tree Coral
- Leaf Plate Montipora
- Single polyp Green mushroom rhodactics
- Green Euphyllia frogspawn
- Slipper coral - Herpolitha
- Palythoa
- Green neon montipora
Posted March 30, 2022
UPDATE -
A few things that have occurred since I last posted:
- Toadstool Leather Coral molted and it freaked me out
- Started feeding the corals Reef Roids 2x/week
- Lowed the water to at least 1/2 inch under the lid to prevent salt creep
- Replaced filter floss
- Killed 10 Aiptasia polyps that popped up
- Got a magnet cleaner
- 10% water change
- Ordered the 21LEDUSA lights
- Tested the ATO but I don't have a reservoir to use yet
- Struggled to get the wavemaker to be in the position I like
- Almost pulled the trigger to buy CUC and 2 clownfish + anemone but will visit LFS first
- Working on building a reef-pi controller for all my peripherals
https://21ledusa.com/products/453nm-actinic-blue-reefbar-aquarium-led-light-9w-ft
and I have the stock light. I want to use the NICREW dual timer until I get my reef-pi setup. My question is about the voltage and what my capabilities will be. I also bought a "3 light power supply" from 21LEDUSA that I don't know the voltage but it would be enough to power 3 of their lights. Will this be enough to run the stock light + 2 LED bars? My apologies - I'm not well versed in electronics.
Posted April 1, 2022
UPDATE -
I nearly flooded my home. I made the mistake of placing the output tube of the ATO deep into Chamber 2 and after the ATO turned on and the pump turned off, it created a siphon and about 1 gallon of water went into the reservoir and spilled out onto the floor. It is now out of the water above Chamber 1
The LED lights came in from 21LEDUSA and they are beautiful. All siliconed up and ready. Thank you @DevilDuck for the advice. I check the powersupply that currently powers the stock LED is it's rated with the below specifications:
Model SW-135150
INPUT: 100-240V AC
59/60 Hz 0.7A
OUTPUT: 13.5 VDC 1500mA
The specifications of the LED from 21LEDUSA are:
- Input voltage: AC 85-265V 50-60Hz (Power Supply converts to 12V for bar)
- Power consumption: 9W
The powersupply came unmarked by the power CORD says 10A 250V.
Posted April 7, 2022
-UPDATE
- Added 2 453nm Actinic Blue ReefBar lights to the lid
- Added 1 8000k White ReefBar light to the lid
- Both added using "Silicone Ultra All-Purpose Premium Waterproof Sealant Aquarium Safe" from Home Depot
- Been slaying some more aiptasia after noticing more when flow was stopped
- Switched out the filter floss
- Noticed another brittle star! (making that a family of 2 now)
- Pulsing xenia is still not pulsing
- Major major growth from leather toadstool and mushroom coral
21LEDUSA lights to be on all day from 12pm-10pm at 30%
Stock lights to be on from 2pm - 6 pm at 100%
Things I noticed:
- this grass like 1/2" long algae is growing over everything, it's brown but it's very spaced out. unsure what it is.
- Little aiptasias are popping up everywhere
I'm looking for a clean up crew and I've seen some examples of what people hold for this tank, what is your favourite CUC?
Posted January 8
-UPDATE
It's been some time so I thought I do an update.
The aquarium has been running since last March and here is what I found out.
- The 3 21USALED light bars added caused an algae growing craze
- Testing for Nitrate and Salinity is not enough
- Some of the coral changed the way they looked
- Leather curl edges started curling into a wavy formation similar to
- GSP was not tight and started to creep but does not give full look
- Duncan coral arms were short
- Trumpet coral was splitting lots but not fat and bulgy as before
- All the montipora turned white and assumed dead
I also had a battle with cyano which I thought might have been coralline algae but from a closer inspection, it definitely was cyano. I'm doing about 10-15% waterchange bi weekly.
Any tips from anyone? Welcome to any advice.
Posted Monday at 03:01 PM
-UPDATE
- Changed lighting schedule to 10AM - 10PM
- Running 2 453nm Actinic Blue ReefBar at 50%
- Turned off the white reefbar
- Running stock fluval led at 50%
- I tested for PAR meter using my phone on Phontone and I'm getting the following data:
- 50%
- 130 PAR 2 inches under light
- 70 at the top of rock structure
- 38 at the middle of the rock structure and
- 22 on the sand
- 75%
- 175 PAR 2 inches under light
- 95 at the top of rock structure
- 47 at the middle of the rock structure and
- 30 on the sand
- 100%
- 270 PAR 2 inches under light
- 140 at the top of rock structure
- 73 at the middle of the rock structure and
- 46 on the sand
- 50%
Danny,
P.S. I know it's late but I JUST ordered a master api reef testing kit. I'm going to test for phosphate, calcium, alkalinity, etc.
Also, i cleaned out most of the "cyano". I'm certain it's cyano today, it's fluffy but only was able to remove using a toothbrush.
- Joined 1 yr
- Author
-PHOTO UPDATE
1. Scrunched up Toadstool Leather Coral:
2. Kandy Kane Coral splitting and growing but the heads are not bulbous like they were previously
3. Purple Green Euphyllia Hammer is not out like it was originally
4. Even the GSP is not looking great
5. Whole tank shot:
I've gone ahead and did a 50% water change, adjusted the salinity to 1.025 and dimmed the lights to 50% intensity. Removed the "white 16K" led reefbar and left the other 2 blue actinic blue led lights plus the stock fluval light.
I'll update params when I get my kit.
..
.
.
.
.
I did a water change. The parameter kit came in today and guess what!
Ca 460
Ph 8.0
Alk 8.0!!
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0.25
I'm using Red Sea Coral Pro Marine Salt and was expecting alk to be 12. I'm going to test the bucket and see what base parameters I get.
And now you're all caught up!
Thank you for reading.
