Duncan only opening on one side

  • Thread starter Thread starter EbiAqua
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Those settings are less than I use for my 1 gallon pico tank. How many gallons is your tank?

This is a .9 gallon display with a reefbreeders pico v2. 80% blue and 20% whites
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You have same light as me, and a 7 gallon tank and use light settings lower than I use on my 1 gallon

Bump your blue channel to 10 and white channel to 3 or 4
 
I would increase your photo period to at least 10hrs and maybe add 30min ramp up and down for around 11hrs total. Get yourself a nitrate test kit and a phosphate test kit. Your corals need nutrients to live and grow. The water changes you are doing are excessive for the the amount of coral in your tank and likely depleting nutrients needed by your coral. 10% week on water changes is fine or 20% every couple weeks.
 
I turned off my blues and turned whites up to get better pics. You can see the stalk is basically bare skeleton and the side of the polyp where there is flow is withdrawn. It is not heavy flow at all, it makes my kenya and gsp sway a bit.

I fed the duncan a little mysis since I don't have anything else except pellets.

20250605_192851.jpg
20250605_192858.jpg
 
I turned off my blues and turned whites up to get better pics. You can see the stalk is basically bare skeleton and the side of the polyp where there is flow is withdrawn. It is not heavy flow at all, it makes my kenya and gsp sway a bit.

I fed the duncan a little mysis since I don't have anything else except pellets.

20250605_192851.jpg
20250605_192858.jpg
mysis is good and what I feed most of my coral
 
I would increase your photo period to at least 10hrs and maybe add 30min ramp up and down for around 11hrs total. Get yourself a nitrate test kit and a phosphate test kit. Your corals need nutrients to live and grow. The water changes you are doing are excessive for the the amount of coral in your tank and likely depleting nutrients needed by your coral. 10% week on water changes is fine or 20% every couple weeks.
I can do 10 hours but my light does not have a ramp option.

My water change habits are the result of 9 years of planted freshwater tanks, just trying to be safe.

Canceled my API reef kit, what do you recommend for nitrate and phosphate tests?
 
I can do 10 hours but my light does not have a ramp option.

My water change habits are the result of 9 years of planted freshwater tanks, just trying to be safe.

Canceled my API reef kit, what do you recommend for nitrate and phosphate tests?
Salifert for nitrate and phosphate. Some people have a hard time reading the colors on those test so Hanna is another good option. I would get one of those two
 
I can do 10 hours but my light does not have a ramp option.

My water change habits are the result of 9 years of planted freshwater tanks, just trying to be safe.

Canceled my API reef kit, what do you recommend for nitrate and phosphate tests?
I use the Hanna. Nitrate is easier to read and want to be somewhere around 10-20ppm. Number is less important. Phosphate I like the ultra low range Hanna. I aim for .05-.1ppm. many kits have a hard time with those low numbers and on color changing kits it can be hard to interpret yourself with a color card. Alk is the other big one IMO and a titration kit like Salifert is good and inexpensive. I prefer the Hanna as I think it's just faster and easier.
 

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