EB832 amp watt errors!!

BeanAnimal

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So for the trouble if I were invested in their ecosystem, If it twer me and I had to go through all of that trouble, I would just design my own board with.... erm opt-isolated shunts and whatever other improvements were needed...
 
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CavamaroZ28

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So when the current meter starts going crazy like this, the problem almost always is around the shunt resistor for this specific outlet. In most cases, the resistors to the controller are fried and in some cases the shunt itself is damaged. On rare occasions, if the spike was too strong and the resistor bank couldn't protect the controller, the controller circuit for this specific outlet may be out also.

One of my repair videos related to this:

Kaboom... I opened up the spare 832 and took a peak and nothing that I could see is wrong. But I can tell someone has been in there before. No glue on the screws, fan and fan wires wer glued down. I'm going to replace the power module in that. Question is with my current poped one. Is it ok to use it for the time being. Obviously not going to have port 6 in use. Idk why it has warnings for and showing watts and amps running in port 6 beyond it capability when it's not being use
 

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Sisterlimonpot

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Kaboom... I opened up the spare 832 and took a peak and nothing that I could see is wrong. But I can tell someone has been in there before. No glue on the screws, fan and fan wires wer glued down. I'm going to replace the power module in that. Question is with my current poped one. Is it ok to use it for the time being. Obviously not going to have port 6 in use. Idk why it has warnings for and showing watts and amps running in port 6 beyond it capability when it's not being use
Are you saying that all the other outlets are able to turn on and off?

If so, it might mean that all that needs to replaced is that shunt and possibly that 4 resistor set.
 
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CavamaroZ28

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Are you saying that all the other outlets are able to turn on and off?

If so, it might mean that all that needs to replaced is that shunt and possibly that 4 resistor set.
Yep. Just put it back together and running the system again. Port 6 (the one that popped) if I turn that on I hear the relay click like it's on and has power. But the indicator light flashes. I'm not plugging anything into it and leaving it off. But if the shunt popped should the relay still click when switched on? Sorry for all the questions, this stuff is way outa my realm
 

Sisterlimonpot

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Yep. Just put it back together and running the system again. Port 6 (the one that popped) if I turn that on I hear the relay click like it's on and has power. But the indicator light flashes. I'm not plugging anything into it and leaving it off. But if the shunt popped should the relay still click when switched on? Sorry for all the questions, this stuff is way outa my realm
I'd tell you what I'd do of it were mine. Shunt resistors have low resistance, meaning very little voltage drop. They're typically used in this application to monitor the current flowing across the 2 points.

1st I would test the 2 resistors in between both terminals of the shunt and the processor. If they read 1k ohm then, just to get by, I would simply solder a jumper wire across the blown shunt so that the pins on the processor aren't floating.

Screenshot_20250129_204102_Chrome.jpg


If nothing else is bad then 6 will work again. The display in fusion would still be inaccurate but should read close to 0 if all it was was the shunt. Although, I don't know if I'd use that outlet until I replaced it with the proper shunt but it almost seems like you dodged a big billet.

If 6 still doesn't toggle, then more troubleshooting would have to happen.
 
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CavamaroZ28

CavamaroZ28

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I'd tell you what I'd do of it were mine. Shunt resistors have low resistance, meaning very little voltage drop. They're typically used in this application to monitor the current flowing across the 2 points.

1st I would test the 2 resistors in between both terminals of the shunt and the processor. If they read 1k ohm then, just to get by, I would simply solder a jumper wire across the blown shunt so that the pins on the processor aren't floating.

Screenshot_20250129_204102_Chrome.jpg


If nothing else is bad then 6 will work again. The display in fusion would still be inaccurate but should read close to 0 if all it was was the shunt. Although, I don't know if I'd use that outlet until I replaced it with the proper shunt but it almost seems like you dodged a big billet.

If 6 still doesn't toggle, then more troubleshooting would have to happen.
I'll test it tomorrow. I ordered a power module for the spare 832. Once I get the spare to work I'm just gona send the current one out to get repaired, upgraded and gone through. Final question- How much of a fire Hazzard do I have here using this 832 the way it is until I fix the spare? (Not using port 6)
 

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