Valuable MemberView Badges
- Jul 9, 2016
- Reaction score
- England Earth
Ugh! Nice catch.Well, I figured out what was killing my tank. For some reason the Pin Point pH probe cracked. Not sure how or why, but it cracked and seeped chemicals into the tank and either caused a short in the tank or something. Going to run carbon and do a series of water changes to try to get things back in order. Glad to finally figure out the issue, but so sad that it took this long. Another item I will reconsider how I run in the tank. Might put it in the return line.
Funny, I had been taking pictures of coral and fish in my new build. Lately I find I am photographing my live rock. LOLSince PO4 is near .1 ppm, I decided to order the ICP test. If my phosphate levels are done around .06-.05, then I'll send out the ICP test to verify. I will also remove all GFO and try to go back to my simple ways of reef keeping.
Something I've noticed in the last couple months of having less coral is the amount of life on the rocks. It is incredible the amount of life that has cropped up. Difference types of alga, worms, sponges, and tunicates. The sponges are very cool. I am seeing yellow and blue types growing.
I need to shoot some more fish pictures. The lubbock's wrasse has really matured into a beautiful male. He is also surprisingly aggressive.
It could have. May want to run some carbon if you do not regularly.I think I finally figured out the main source of phosphate in the tank. I finally pulled my neon green toadstool because it was looking horrible. It had slowly rotted away in its core. I was hoping it would eventually bounce back. Unfortunately it reached a point where it was obvious it wasn't going to recover. Didn't think it was the main source of the PO4, but ~3 days after removing it, the PO4 dropped from .083 to .061 ppm. I'm wondering if the dying toadstool was also releasing other toxic chemicals into the water that was affecting the stony corals. Only time will tell.
Love it, thanks for sharingWell, it's about time I created a tank thread for my aquarium. I've been apprehensive about posting anything as I was waiting for the tank to age a bit. Then I ran into some issues and now, finally, I am ready to share my reef tank.
A little about myself:
I am a Mechanical Engineer working on my graduate degree in Electrical Engineering. I work for a defense contractor in the DFW area. I'm engaged to a beautiful woman who is also my best friend. She doesn't mind my obsession with aquariums as long as I keep the mess to a minimum.
What I wanted was a tank without a center brace, but with a frame. I would say that the rimless aquariums scare me a bit and the eurobrace aquariums are expensive and larger than I have room for. Therefore I settled on the 40 breeder. For the sump, I wanted something larger than the DT and with enormous room for an unlit refugium. I was able to snag a standard 55 gal for free and converted it into a sump.
Below are images from Creo 2 of the full assembly.
When I first started this hobby 4 years ago, I went the conventional route of running carbon, GFO, lit refugium, etc. I eventually learned other methods that allowed me to utilize less equipment, and I used that knowledge in designing this aquarium.
First, the only "reactor" I run is a zeovit reactor stuff with Brightwell zeolites. This isn't for the zeovit method, but because it is a safe haven for bacterial growth. Second, I run a large skimmer. It is the PM CV626 venturi skimmer. I love it for the tall reaction chamber. Consistently pulls out waste material. Third, I dose vodka. I used to dose vinegar, but I was dosing too much to meet the demands of my tank. I love fat healthy fish. And last, I have ~20 gal refugium filled with rock. Tons of seasoned rock from my first tank that ran for 2 years that I transferred to a holding tub and continued to keep running. There is so much rock, it can't even all fit underwater.
With this method, I can keep nitrate and phosphate nearly undetectable. Actually, as I found out later, I have to continuously feed the tank else my nutrients drop too low and I start losing corals.
I purchased an 8 bulb T5 grow fixture from Amazon and retro fitted it with two Lumia 5.2s. I suspend the fixture about 10 inches above the water. At the water surface, this gives me about 500 par with ~250-300 par at the top of the rock my SPS sit. The sand bed ranges from 50 par to 150 par. This gives me tons of places to arrange corals depending on light requirements.
I use a Gyre xf150 for flow in the display. It pulses every 10 sec at about 40% power. I recently purchased a TI BLDC motor controller that allows 5V PWM control. I plan to use this to control the Gyre and generate more natural flow patterns.
My own design. A Raspberry Pi 3 communicating over serial to an Arduino Uno. Took this route because I had analog sensors and didn't want to buy new digital sensors. Was cheaper to develop my own ASCII serial communication between the two boards. I wrote the main controller code in Python and it pulls data thru various APIs. I use this to simulate cloud cover and moon phase, and will eventually use it for tidal info and to vary dawn/dusk times.
Sicce 3.0 return pump
Vertex 1.5L Zeovit Reactor
PM CV626 Venturi Skimmer powered by a pump I can't remember the name of,
Two Eheim Heaters
Couple Hydor Koralia nano powerheads for sump chamber circulation
Lots of DIY other stuff. I can explain more in detail if there are any questions.