First Attempt at Hard Plumbing

Michael Rossi

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Please excuse the horrible drawing, but I'm planning to hard plumb my tank. The main reason being, the dorso drain is gurgling/flushing and I don't have room in my overflow to switch to a herbie. I also don't have a controllable return pump to lower the return rate (which I think it the heart of the issue) so I want to use a gate valve to dial it back.

I'd appreciate any obvious issues with my plan and/or any tips or tricks. I won't be able to get to Home Depot for a day or two still.

I want to keep that return PVC as high as possible to allow for working room in the sump. I'll need to play around with the clearance and exact placement of the gate valve when I get all the equipment. There is also a wood support beam in the middle of the stand that I can install a hanger to keep it in place and prevent it from sagging.

IMG_2846.jpg
 
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Looks fine. I did the same thing on my old tank. Only difference was i had a ball valve union instead of a gate valve
This. Try to use ball valve union even in drain to help dial in flow. I wouldn't use gate valves from Home Cheapo, those r very difficult/stiff to adjust vs. the more expensive ones from BRS are very easy to use.
 
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Michael Rossi

Michael Rossi

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This. Try to use ball valve union even in drain to help dial in flow. I wouldn't use gate valves from Home Cheapo, those r very difficult/stiff to adjust vs. the more expensive ones from BRS are very easy to use.
I was reading that the ball valves were harder to dial in (I think there was even a note on this thread to try to stay away from them). However, it sounds like multiple people have had success with this.

And yes, Home Depot doesn't even sell the gate valves. I would need to get them from BRS.
 
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Mike9976

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Please excuse the horrible drawing, but I'm planning to hard plumb my tank. The main reason being, the dorso drain is gurgling/flushing and I don't have room in my overflow to switch to a herbie. I also don't have a controllable return pump to lower the return rate (which I think it the heart of the issue) so I want to use a gate valve to dial it back.

I'd appreciate any obvious issues with my plan and/or any tips or tricks. I won't be able to get to Home Depot for a day or two still.

I want to keep that return PVC as high as possible to allow for working room in the sump. I'll need to play around with the clearance and exact placement of the gate valve when I get all the equipment. There is also a wood support beam in the middle of the stand that I can install a hanger to keep it in place and prevent it from sagging.

IMG_2846.jpg


You're using unions from the tank as opposed to bulkheads?
 

Billldg

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On my 1st tank I used hand valves with no issues. I bought them from Lowes at a fraction of the price of a gate valve. I would recommend also installing unions on the sump as well.

20180526_190839.jpg
 

Mike9976

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Please excuse the horrible drawing, but I'm planning to hard plumb my tank. The main reason being, the dorso drain is gurgling/flushing and I don't have room in my overflow to switch to a herbie. I also don't have a controllable return pump to lower the return rate (which I think it the heart of the issue) so I want to use a gate valve to dial it back.

I'd appreciate any obvious issues with my plan and/or any tips or tricks. I won't be able to get to Home Depot for a day or two still.

I want to keep that return PVC as high as possible to allow for working room in the sump. I'll need to play around with the clearance and exact placement of the gate valve when I get all the equipment. There is also a wood support beam in the middle of the stand that I can install a hanger to keep it in place and prevent it from sagging.

IMG_2846.jpg


Avoid using 90° elbows, it'll restrict your flow.
 
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Michael Rossi

Michael Rossi

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You're using unions from the tank as opposed to bulkheads?

No. Probably just my crude drawing :) I would have a short pipe connected to the bulkheads and the union up close to the bulkhead, but connected by a short pipe. I have another bulkhead going into the sump, so I think I would do the same there (short pipe and union). That should allow me to easily install the pipe between the two unions. At least I think it would....
 

Ippyroy

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Please excuse the horrible drawing, but I'm planning to hard plumb my tank. The main reason being, the dorso drain is gurgling/flushing and I don't have room in my overflow to switch to a herbie. I also don't have a controllable return pump to lower the return rate (which I think it the heart of the issue) so I want to use a gate valve to dial it back.

I'd appreciate any obvious issues with my plan and/or any tips or tricks. I won't be able to get to Home Depot for a day or two still.

I want to keep that return PVC as high as possible to allow for working room in the sump. I'll need to play around with the clearance and exact placement of the gate valve when I get all the equipment. There is also a wood support beam in the middle of the stand that I can install a hanger to keep it in place and prevent it from sagging.

IMG_2846.jpg
What are you using as a return pump? I use sicce pumps and I can change the flow rate on all of them with a dial on the front. It works great. A ball valve on the return pump is not a big deal. I would use a gate valve on the drain though. you need very precise control on that one.
 

Conovan

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Please excuse the horrible drawing, but I'm planning to hard plumb my tank. The main reason being, the dorso drain is gurgling/flushing and I don't have room in my overflow to switch to a herbie. I also don't have a controllable return pump to lower the return rate (which I think it the heart of the issue) so I want to use a gate valve to dial it back.

I'd appreciate any obvious issues with my plan and/or any tips or tricks. I won't be able to get to Home Depot for a day or two still.

I want to keep that return PVC as high as possible to allow for working room in the sump. I'll need to play around with the clearance and exact placement of the gate valve when I get all the equipment. There is also a wood support beam in the middle of the stand that I can install a hanger to keep it in place and prevent it from sagging.

IMG_2846.jpg
plumbing.jpg

I think mine is pretty close to what you have have in your diagram with the exception of the check valve and return valve placement. I also have a durso ( bbought the tank second hand so no real options). Works well for me with close to no sound at all.
 
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Michael Rossi

Michael Rossi

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What are you using as a return pump? I use sicce pumps and I can change the flow rate on all of them with a dial on the front. It works great. A ball valve on the return pump is not a big deal. I would use a gate valve on the drain though. you need very precise control on that one.
Supreme Aqua-Mag 700 GPH Return Pump

There is no control on it to reduce the flow. I'm torn between getting a new DC/Controllable return pump vs hard plumbing it with a ball valve. Hard plumbing seems like the cheaper option... And a good learning experience
 
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Michael Rossi

Michael Rossi

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plumbing.jpg

I think mine is pretty close to what you have have in your diagram with the exception of the check valve and return valve placement. I also have a durso ( bbought the tank second hand so no real options). Works well for me with close to no sound at all.

Lol. It looks exactly like what I will have! I like how you and @billdg have the valves up high. I wonder if I could even replace the upper union with the valve (the same as you guys have with the union as a part of it).
 

Ippyroy

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Supreme Aqua-Mag 700 GPH Return Pump

There is no control on it to reduce the flow. I'm torn between getting a new DC/Controllable return pump vs hard plumbing it with a ball valve. Hard plumbing seems like the cheaper option... And a good learning experience
Just be sure to use soft tubing between pump and valve. It will make it much easier to maintain and replace.
 

Mike9976

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No. Probably just my crude drawing :) I would have a short pipe connected to the bulkheads and the union up close to the bulkhead, but connected by a short pipe. I have another bulkhead going into the sump, so I think I would do the same there (short pipe and union). That should allow me to easily install the pipe between the two unions. At least I think it would....


Ok what I did was with the bulkheads is run a flexible hose to sump that slipped directly into the sump. Then on the return I used clear PVC which you can find just in case there's a clog or anything I can see it (hopefully) then from there I ran pvc out over the sump then used a reducing bushing, pipe, 45° elbow, then flexi hose back into tank. Theres a lot more involved. Ill see if I can take better pics when I get home. I have limited space underneath so I do what I can.
 

Conovan

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Lol. It looks exactly like what I will have! I like how you and @billdg have the valves up high. I wonder if I could even replace the upper union with the valve (the same as you guys have with the union as a part of it).
I could have but it would have made it that much harder to make adjustments. In retrospect I pretty much haven't touched them since initial setup
 
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