TarheelGrey
Community Member
Hello All! I am new to the Aquarium Hobby, have always loved reef tanks and have decided that I want to try my hand at it. So of course I jump with both feet into the deep end and try to set myself up for success. Been lurking for a little bit during my learning process (Primarily BRS/SWA and other Beginner Tank build series on YouTube) and was deciding if I wanted to post a Build thread or not. I decided the advice and conversation would benefit my entry into the Hobby!
So here is what I have put together!
5 Stage RO/DI Station with 2x 32gal Brutes. 1 RO/DI. 1 Salt (Tropic Marin Pro Reef).
Display Tank - BioCube 32 LED
Eheim Jager 100w X2 in first chamber. (One set at 77 as the main heater. One set at 75 for backup if the primary fails off... will still maintain 75.)
Inkbird ITC 308. Set for 78. (I chose this one because it has heating and cooling plugs. I know BioCubes can have high temp problems, so planning ahead if I have to add a fan.)
I am using the Internal Eheim thermometers to control the temps. The Inkbird for failure recovery if the Eheim fails on... it will cut power at 78.
InTank Media Basket in 2nd Chamber (Left half empty at the moment. Don't know what I want to do here yet. Probably Cheato at some point. Planning to run Pinky floss and carbon on the top shelf. Rest is full of 25 MarinePure Balls. (Is this too high flow area for ceramic media? Should I move it to the empty half or 1st/3rd chamber and use the lower half of media basket for Chaeto?)
Sicce 1.5 in 3rd chamber.
Hygger 3400 GPH Wavemaker. Removed. I didn't like the fish guard on there because it just trapped food and I don't like the larger 'intake' openings.
Hygger Mini 1600 GPH Wavemaker Ill post the settings after I have a chance to play with them.
~25lbs Dry Rock
Fiji Pink Sand
Quarantine/Hospital Tank
10 Gal Aqua Culture
AquaClear 30 (Should I put the 5 Marine Pure balls in the filter or leave them in the tank?)
Eheim Jager 50w
5 MarinePure Balls in Main tank.
As for my Cycles, (I am trying to cycle both tanks)
Both tanks got wet on Sat 4/15. Got the RODI water in both, Added salt and waited 24hrs for the salt to mix. Added Turbo 900 and Ammonia to 2ppm to both on Monday 4/17. ( I plan getting my clowns and next 1/2 fish at same time... clowns directly to empty main... other(s) in QT (Depends if LFS has 2 fish in same tank currently), so trying to cycle both)
Seeing 2 different issues in the two different tanks.
QT seemed to be stuck for a while ... even with the Turbo. Originally added 2ppm and although it dropped from 2ppm to 0.75 pretty quickly, it remains at 0.75 since day 3 of cycle.
Display seems to be stuck on the Nitrite stage. I can get rid of Ammonia without issues, but the Nitrites don't seem to be moving (Up or down as I was adding 1ppm of ammonia every 3rd day to make sure my ammonia loving bacteria doesn't die waiting for the nitrite bacteria to decide to come in. I guess since the Nitrites aren't rising, the bacteria is working .... just slowly. I realize its only been 9 days (Although seeing all the 7-10 day cycle threads I guess my expectation was a little high, and I only have the API kits (So it can be hard to tell the higher Nitrite levels.) So just trying to be patient. Talked through it with my LFS and was advised to start 'Feeding' the tank instead of use bottle Ammonia as it would give a more gradual ammonia feed as the food breaks down and the Nitrite loving bacteria needs a little phosphates. Started that yesterday 4/26 with Seachem Marine Plus Flakes 1 pinch every day.
As of Yesterday, my chemistry is:
Display -
Ph 8.0 (Remaining very stable)
Ammonia - 0 (Added 1 pinch flakes post test),
Nitrite 2.0 (Again harder to tell with API. Ordered Aquavital Marine 5in1 strips to try and confirm (And they are a quick test for future use anyway)
Nitrates - I don't test this yet as I was advised very early that most tests cant read a proper Nitrate level when there are Nitrites present.
Salinity - 34
QT -
Ph 8.1
Ammonia - 0.75
Nitrites - 0.5
Salinity 34
Ill start posting Pics here of the test results .... gives me a second way to really track.
As for my future plans for the tank it will be a Softie/LPS tank (Torch/Hammer/Zoa/Acans/Leathers primarily) I really don't see the draw in SPS, but to each their own I guess.)
As for fish, My plans are:
2 clowns (Hoping to get 2 different looking to tell them apart. Maybe a Normal and Carmel/Chocolate or Orange Misbar. The Wyoming Whites seem to be reasonable at my LFS too.)
1 or 2 Cardnialfish (1 Banggai and 1 Pajama) Although not set on both yet. Depends on the second color of the clown. The Blennie and the Cardinals seem to be similar in color and want a little variety. If the 2nd clown is darker, that would make 3/4 darker fish.
Royal Gramma
Lawnmower Blennie
Mandarin (I know these are pretty picky eaters, and I plan on trying to culture Phyto and Pods to keep it fed. Hope to really seed the tank with pods and get the cultures going to make sure he will stay fed before picking one up. Also realize it might be 6-9 month mark and thats ok.)
7 is probably pushing it for BC32, I will evaluate as I go. If I don't end up with 2 cardinals leaving just 6 fish, what would you suggest for a 7th if any for tank position and color variety? Clowns will of course be first, but any suggestions for order after that is of course welcome.
CUC looking at red/blue leg hermits, Trochus and Nessarius Snails and then a cleaner shrimp.
Look forward to the conversations and feedback and to become a proper part of this community!
So here is what I have put together!
5 Stage RO/DI Station with 2x 32gal Brutes. 1 RO/DI. 1 Salt (Tropic Marin Pro Reef).
Display Tank - BioCube 32 LED
Eheim Jager 100w X2 in first chamber. (One set at 77 as the main heater. One set at 75 for backup if the primary fails off... will still maintain 75.)
Inkbird ITC 308. Set for 78. (I chose this one because it has heating and cooling plugs. I know BioCubes can have high temp problems, so planning ahead if I have to add a fan.)
I am using the Internal Eheim thermometers to control the temps. The Inkbird for failure recovery if the Eheim fails on... it will cut power at 78.
InTank Media Basket in 2nd Chamber (Left half empty at the moment. Don't know what I want to do here yet. Probably Cheato at some point. Planning to run Pinky floss and carbon on the top shelf. Rest is full of 25 MarinePure Balls. (Is this too high flow area for ceramic media? Should I move it to the empty half or 1st/3rd chamber and use the lower half of media basket for Chaeto?)
Sicce 1.5 in 3rd chamber.
Hygger 3400 GPH Wavemaker. Removed. I didn't like the fish guard on there because it just trapped food and I don't like the larger 'intake' openings.
Hygger Mini 1600 GPH Wavemaker Ill post the settings after I have a chance to play with them.
~25lbs Dry Rock
Fiji Pink Sand
Quarantine/Hospital Tank
10 Gal Aqua Culture
AquaClear 30 (Should I put the 5 Marine Pure balls in the filter or leave them in the tank?)
Eheim Jager 50w
5 MarinePure Balls in Main tank.
As for my Cycles, (I am trying to cycle both tanks)
Both tanks got wet on Sat 4/15. Got the RODI water in both, Added salt and waited 24hrs for the salt to mix. Added Turbo 900 and Ammonia to 2ppm to both on Monday 4/17. ( I plan getting my clowns and next 1/2 fish at same time... clowns directly to empty main... other(s) in QT (Depends if LFS has 2 fish in same tank currently), so trying to cycle both)
Seeing 2 different issues in the two different tanks.
QT seemed to be stuck for a while ... even with the Turbo. Originally added 2ppm and although it dropped from 2ppm to 0.75 pretty quickly, it remains at 0.75 since day 3 of cycle.
Display seems to be stuck on the Nitrite stage. I can get rid of Ammonia without issues, but the Nitrites don't seem to be moving (Up or down as I was adding 1ppm of ammonia every 3rd day to make sure my ammonia loving bacteria doesn't die waiting for the nitrite bacteria to decide to come in. I guess since the Nitrites aren't rising, the bacteria is working .... just slowly. I realize its only been 9 days (Although seeing all the 7-10 day cycle threads I guess my expectation was a little high, and I only have the API kits (So it can be hard to tell the higher Nitrite levels.) So just trying to be patient. Talked through it with my LFS and was advised to start 'Feeding' the tank instead of use bottle Ammonia as it would give a more gradual ammonia feed as the food breaks down and the Nitrite loving bacteria needs a little phosphates. Started that yesterday 4/26 with Seachem Marine Plus Flakes 1 pinch every day.
As of Yesterday, my chemistry is:
Display -
Ph 8.0 (Remaining very stable)
Ammonia - 0 (Added 1 pinch flakes post test),
Nitrite 2.0 (Again harder to tell with API. Ordered Aquavital Marine 5in1 strips to try and confirm (And they are a quick test for future use anyway)
Nitrates - I don't test this yet as I was advised very early that most tests cant read a proper Nitrate level when there are Nitrites present.
Salinity - 34
QT -
Ph 8.1
Ammonia - 0.75
Nitrites - 0.5
Salinity 34
Ill start posting Pics here of the test results .... gives me a second way to really track.
As for my future plans for the tank it will be a Softie/LPS tank (Torch/Hammer/Zoa/Acans/Leathers primarily) I really don't see the draw in SPS, but to each their own I guess.)
As for fish, My plans are:
2 clowns (Hoping to get 2 different looking to tell them apart. Maybe a Normal and Carmel/Chocolate or Orange Misbar. The Wyoming Whites seem to be reasonable at my LFS too.)
1 or 2 Cardnialfish (1 Banggai and 1 Pajama) Although not set on both yet. Depends on the second color of the clown. The Blennie and the Cardinals seem to be similar in color and want a little variety. If the 2nd clown is darker, that would make 3/4 darker fish.
Royal Gramma
Lawnmower Blennie
Mandarin (I know these are pretty picky eaters, and I plan on trying to culture Phyto and Pods to keep it fed. Hope to really seed the tank with pods and get the cultures going to make sure he will stay fed before picking one up. Also realize it might be 6-9 month mark and thats ok.)
7 is probably pushing it for BC32, I will evaluate as I go. If I don't end up with 2 cardinals leaving just 6 fish, what would you suggest for a 7th if any for tank position and color variety? Clowns will of course be first, but any suggestions for order after that is of course welcome.
CUC looking at red/blue leg hermits, Trochus and Nessarius Snails and then a cleaner shrimp.
Look forward to the conversations and feedback and to become a proper part of this community!
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