dantimdad
7500 Club Member
Let's talk at some point.
General DIY LED thread
- Thread starter Kampo
- Start date
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Let's talk at some point.
I was one of those that was with the development of the dream chip 6 to 7 years ago. Most of it is documented in a thread "Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build " in another US forum. Not all of it because in the end it was impossible to stay in that forum. I have change my mind a little since that but I had some dream chip with one channel of reds (630 and 660). I introduce greens to my old aquarium 5 years ago too and build an array with 410, 430, 455 multichips (20 W) and LED engine 54 W RGBA for another aquarium.
Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
Interesting reading
What ratio of Red:green:blue is needed to make a ‘white’ looking tank, like a 3m deep reef at noon?
Because the ones I’ve seen certainly aren’t blue and id like to replicate that spectrum
Thanks
What ratio of Red:green:blue is needed to make a ‘white’ looking tank, like a 3m deep reef at noon?
Because the ones I’ve seen certainly aren’t blue and id like to replicate that spectrum
Thanks
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Kampo
Active Member
i'm not a fan of the green/red spectrum in the aquarium. if I wanted the red spectrum I would just use a High CRI warm white diode. for me playing with my current light which give 7 channels of control I'm settling into a ratio thats basically:
8:RB
2xV
2xUV
1xB
1xCyan
1xMint
1xHigh CRI Cool white (Luxeon C) more I play with my light i'm not liking no White, needs a little. only running mine at 10% but i do like what it adds.
Array would basically be: (RB is a k16 luxeon so a single star 16 leds running at 500ma)
V B UV
M RB W
UV C V
8:RB
2xV
2xUV
1xB
1xCyan
1xMint
1xHigh CRI Cool white (Luxeon C) more I play with my light i'm not liking no White, needs a little. only running mine at 10% but i do like what it adds.
Array would basically be: (RB is a k16 luxeon so a single star 16 leds running at 500ma)
V B UV
M RB W
UV C V
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Have you checked out the reef-pi yet? My experience with it so far is it's much easier to set up and programme than an arduino and has plenty of flexibility
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...tank-controller-based-on-raspberry-pi.289256/
U
User1
Guest
There is still a metric ton of useful information in that thread.
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User1
Guest
I've not used a reef-pi yet but I've used Arduino via Reef Angel and the amount of custom libraries is amazing. Tides, geo location, storms, and more. Granted a lot of that isn't necessary and of all my LED's that I've controlled via a controller is for on, off, ramp up, down, parabola, etc, after I got the initial spectrum dialed in. Never changed it after that and is still the case today with my current setup.
Matt Carden
Valuable Member
I noticed something about the mint and cyan LEDs I was able to find online(luxeon). They seemed to be full spectrum without a documented peak wavelength.
dantimdad
7500 Club Member
I noticed that as well. That is what spurred me into trying them out.
i think i read somewear lime/mint has enough of the 490-500nm light to be "enough"
it does have some forsure, but does seem like there would be a hole in teh 480-490 range.
This is why I always like supplementing cyan in the mix.
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Kampo
Active Member
So I was up not able too sleep. And saw @theatrus posted his concept for a new array. Got me looking again at led spectrums. Not sure why I didn't notice it before. But a long time favorite of mine for freshwater luxeon sunplus cool white/ fresh focus fish cob share a lot with mint/lime
The middle green peak follows mint/lime almost exactly except you gain in the cyan range prolly enough to not worry about a extra cyan diode
Only hole in arround 470-480. Also the royal blue peak is a bit wider so I think there is some bennifts there as well.
Mint is cool but maybe we are over thinking it.
The middle green peak follows mint/lime almost exactly except you gain in the cyan range prolly enough to not worry about a extra cyan diode
Only hole in arround 470-480. Also the royal blue peak is a bit wider so I think there is some bennifts there as well.
Mint is cool but maybe we are over thinking it.
So I was up not able too sleep. And saw @theatrus posted his concept for a new array. Got me looking again at led spectrums. Not sure why I didn't notice it before. But a long time favorite of mine for freshwater luxeon sunplus cool white/ fresh focus fish cob share a lot with mint/lime
The middle green peak follows mint/lime almost exactly except you gain in the cyan range prolly enough to not worry about a extra cyan diode
Only hole in arround 470-480. Also the royal blue peak is a bit wider so I think there is some bennifts there as well.
Mint is cool but maybe we are over thinking it.
I have a good chunk of a reel of the 90+ CRI 5700k whites as well to experiment with. It’s a very flat and wide spectrum, and the same footprint as the mint.
Im going to prep the board in https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ledbrick-diy-led-pendant-with-pucks.243746/page-3#post-5539576 for ordering to see what we get back. Lots of variables in play
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Kampo
Active Member
Another thoguht. I got a ABI Tunablue light, and always really LOVED its color even if it was cheap bridglux style leds. and looking at the leds its a really nice wide assortment of chips from 395-500nm and a white to "fill in the rest".
23 watt Tune Blue specs
1x 395-400nm, 1x 410-420nm, 2x 420-430nm, 1x 430-440nm, 2x 440-450nm, 2x 450-460nm, 2x 460-470nm, 1x 470-475nm, 1x 490-495nm, 1x 6500K, 1x cyan (phosphor based)
kinda follows what @dantimdad is saying to a point in his array idea as well. just subbing out the white/cyan phosphar (guessing this is a wider spectrum than normal cyan) for mint.
what I really want to do is sit down and get a bunch of leds with some sort of spectral analiyzer and figure out a good "Base" spectrum like kessil does, I don't really care for there lights since there so much for little par, but I like the fact they have NAILED the blue side of the spectrum, and just modulate how much white you have. I feel if we could copy that and then use mint/high CRI cool white mix to do the same we could get a better than kessil spectrum with more punch.
23 watt Tune Blue specs
1x 395-400nm, 1x 410-420nm, 2x 420-430nm, 1x 430-440nm, 2x 440-450nm, 2x 450-460nm, 2x 460-470nm, 1x 470-475nm, 1x 490-495nm, 1x 6500K, 1x cyan (phosphor based)
kinda follows what @dantimdad is saying to a point in his array idea as well. just subbing out the white/cyan phosphar (guessing this is a wider spectrum than normal cyan) for mint.
what I really want to do is sit down and get a bunch of leds with some sort of spectral analiyzer and figure out a good "Base" spectrum like kessil does, I don't really care for there lights since there so much for little par, but I like the fact they have NAILED the blue side of the spectrum, and just modulate how much white you have. I feel if we could copy that and then use mint/high CRI cool white mix to do the same we could get a better than kessil spectrum with more punch.
This reminds me that I still have some Hamamatsu spectrometer heads kicking around which could be used to measure this easily. The only Kessil product I have is an A80 however.
U
User1
Guest
Agree - Kessil does a good job with the adjustability knob for users eye. We can do that if we align the channels and led's set properly I believe. Controllers regardless of type can tune specific channels for both intensity and spectrum.
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Kampo
Active Member
Broke out a tool I used when working with freshwater back awhile ago: http://spectra.1023world.net
this is my thinking for my frag tank light. ideas is to get the "Tuna Blue" blue, with a better white side led
Spectrum for Chinese 10 LED chip with leds: 1x395 semiled 1x410 semi led 1x420 semiled 4xCree RB 2xCree B 1 epiled cyan then adding 2 Luxeon Sunplus Cool Whites to that. Might change Blue to 1 in exchange for another 420, but looks like Kessil uses more 470 so I did it that way
pretty close, bit wider coverage in hte UV section. Bit less white but I could always add in a mint to get the boost the green range.
this is my thinking for my frag tank light. ideas is to get the "Tuna Blue" blue, with a better white side led
Spectrum for Chinese 10 LED chip with leds: 1x395 semiled 1x410 semi led 1x420 semiled 4xCree RB 2xCree B 1 epiled cyan then adding 2 Luxeon Sunplus Cool Whites to that. Might change Blue to 1 in exchange for another 420, but looks like Kessil uses more 470 so I did it that way
pretty close, bit wider coverage in hte UV section. Bit less white but I could always add in a mint to get the boost the green range.
OP
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Kampo
Active Member
another option i'm looking at is they sell a 4 channel 16 chip version for actually the same money and getting:
RB RB RB RB
420 395 410 420
CW WW C CW
RB B B RB
very similar spectrum, but compromise is lose option for nice whites, but cw/ww mix is pretty decent as long as there is cyan.
RB RB RB RB
420 395 410 420
CW WW C CW
RB B B RB
very similar spectrum, but compromise is lose option for nice whites, but cw/ww mix is pretty decent as long as there is cyan.
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Kampo
Active Member
well not getting to much interest in my old Blueacro pucs in the forsale forum. so I think I'm just going to use what I have in my next light project. I think I have lined up a 2 bulb 48in retrofit. so I'm thinking 2 t5hos with ATI blues with 2 Blue Acro Halfmega Pros in between. should be able to run that whole mess off 1 1amp driver and just make it a on/off light. what you guys think? enough par for anything on a 48x12x12 tank? guessing 2 tier frag rack one 2in off floor and one 6in.
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