General DIY LED thread

[buddy.]

Hey guys I am thinking about refreshing my DIY lights and hoping I could get some input.
I have been running my lights since 2012 with Cree leds and a 48v 8.3amp power supply. I am using LDD drivers.
I recently hooked up a reef-pi which has been great.

Here is the layout that I am using, I have two of these hanging over a 2.5 x 2 x 2 tank.
I have a few of leds that are dim and burnt out so I am looking to replace the whole lot.

What are most people using these days? I see there are a few more colours now like mint, lime, amber! Also I can see there has been a shift away from using a lot of white leds.
If I could get some guidance on a new layout that would be awesome!

 

[TDEcoral]

Hey guys I am thinking about refreshing my DIY lights and hoping I could get some input.
I have been running my lights since 2012 with Cree leds and a 48v 8.3amp power supply. I am using LDD drivers.
I recently hooked up a reef-pi which has been great.

Here is the layout that I am using, I have two of these hanging over a 2.5 x 2 x 2 tank.
I have a few of leds that are dim and burnt out so I am looking to replace the whole lot.

What are most people using these days? I see there are a few more colours now like mint, lime, amber! Also I can see there has been a shift away from using a lot of white leds.
If I could get some guidance on a new layout that would be awesome!

What I'm using might not help you too much, but it may give you some ideas. In each light that I'm building now, I've got the following:
1 - 3000k Citizen 36v COB
1 - 4000k Citizen 36v COB
2 - Luxeon k16 royal blue
2 - 3-up UV LEDs with a mix from 400nm to 430nm
2 - 3-up stars with 1 luxeon cool blue and 2 luxeon cyan

I find that the color I'm getting with this mix is perfect for me. Especially since each color is on its own channel so I can really fine tune it.

 

[buddy.]

Thanks for the reply @TDEcoral ....I was beginning to think this might be a dead thread!
I actually did a bit more research and ordered some LEDs since I posted. Turns out that its pretty close to your light!
I have a mixture of 2700k - 4500k, The Luxeon k16 royal blues, uv 400-430nm and then mint.
Ill also have each colour on its own channel to fine tune.
Just waiting for all of my parts to arrive!

Do you have any pictures of your light?

 

[skyrne_isk]

Adding a question about my proposed LEDZeal Alpha 120 layout for more input. Here is the current working layout:

Orig config above..sorry a bit sloppy on my part..

A couple questions:
1) too much red?
2) too much cyan? want to avoid the windex look.

I supplement currently w/ 2x 460 T5s and two 420 actinic VHOs

Looking for input from more sources....

 

[hotdrop]

Any good vendors/sources for led arrays? I know nano box sells their arrays but they are a bit pricy at 50/ea are there any other good sources

 

[skyrne_isk]

Adding a question about my proposed LEDZeal Alpha 120 layout for more input. Here is the current working layout:

A couple questions:
1) too much red?
2) too much cyan? want to avoid the windex look.

I supplement currently w/ 2x 460 T5s and two 420 actinic VHOs

Looking for input from more sources....

I should add: am going for 12000-14000k look with all channels @ 100% with this configuration and then tweaking color of needed by adjusting T5 bulbs I run alongside.

 

[oreo54]

I should add: am going for 12000-14000k look with all channels @ 100% with this configuration

Like I said, that one isn't "it". You need a lot more "white" for 12-14000K at max..

* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED Violet (420nm) [120°] x4
LED RoyalBlue (450nm) [120°] x2
LED Cyan (500nm) [120°] x2
LED DeepRed (660nm) [120°] x2
LED CoolWhite (8000K) [120°] x14

That should keep you from "windex"
4w,2cyan
4w , 2 deep red
6 white
4 violet 2 royal blue..

And you still need to slightly dim the "blue channel"...

 

[oreo54]

Since "diodes do matter" I checked, and corrected, using higher quality diodes:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Blue (460-480nm) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Cyan (490-510nm) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel DeepRed (650-670nm) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel CoolWhite (4500-10000K) [120°] x16
SemiLEDs C35L-U-A UV (410-420nm) (U70) [120°] x2
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 3,674 lm
Radiant flux : 16,499 mW
PPF : 71.2 umol/s
TCP : 21280 K
CRI : 56
λp : 659 nm
Color : #9E99FF

Dimming channel 3 to 1/2 power generates 9430K color temp.

soooo sliding just ch3 up or down will be your K adjustment..

USING cheaper diodes put base K at 10870.. so white channel slider is your K adjustment..
not the differences ..so diodes matter a bit ..Nothing can be err guaranteed in other words .. but concept
is sound..

There is a "bug" in the above one..
Need to take out 2 more whites and use 2 more blues.. or to get your 14000k you need to shut the "pure white" channel off..wasting too much
1) 4 white. 2 deep red
2) 4 white 2 cyan
3) 4 blue 2 violet,
4) 6 white
20000K.. dim ch 3 to lower K temp
Final answer..............................................Dang, almost back to the orig..

Both stay below the locus so tone should always be "purple"
suppose I should illustrate that..

 

[skyrne_isk]

Since "diodes do matter" I checked, and corrected, using higher quality diodes:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Blue (460-480nm) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Cyan (490-510nm) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel DeepRed (650-670nm) [120°] x2
PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel CoolWhite (4500-10000K) [120°] x16
SemiLEDs C35L-U-A UV (410-420nm) (U70) [120°] x2
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 3,674 lm
Radiant flux : 16,499 mW
PPF : 71.2 umol/s
TCP : 21280 K
CRI : 56
λp : 659 nm
Color : #9E99FF

Dimming channel 3 to 1/2 power generates 9430K color temp.

soooo sliding just ch3 up or down will be your K adjustment..

USING cheaper diodes put base K at 10870.. so white channel slider is your K adjustment..
not the differences ..so diodes matter a bit ..Nothing can be err guaranteed in other words .. but concept
is sound..

There is a "bug" in the above one..
Need to take out 2 more whites and use 2 more blues.. or to get your 14000k you need to shut the "pure white" channel off..wasting too much
1) 4 white. 2 deep red
2) 4 white 2 cyan
3) 4 blue 2 violet,
4) 6 white
20000K.. dim ch 3 to lower K temp
Final answer..............................................Dang, almost back to the orig..

Both stay below the locus so tone should always be "purple"
suppose I should illustrate that..

man it does feel like we’ve gone in a big circle - thanks for making me your personal cause

I want able to get any of these graphs to show up with the website you linked - was there anything to it other than loading LED colors?

 

[oreo54]

No, not really but yes...
There are a lot of tweaks one can do.
Basics
On "GRAPH" tab one can change it to "reef" or "fresh"..and which charts you want to show
ADVANCED tab "auto" for general CRI ect.

ITEMS tab just allows you to choose LED and light sets you want displayed.

You scroll through the charts by clicking on them..



some people have had problems w/ tablets and Android OS's.
Works great under Windows OS's

I have a tablet I can't get it to function on at all

Thread to drive you crazy..
2012-2016..

Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build - Page 71 - Reef Central Online Community

Page 71- Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build Do It Yourself

www.reefcentral.com

1) 4 white. 2 deep red = approx 6200K "pink"
2) 4 white 2 cyan =8330 "aqua"
3) 4 blue 2 violet,= λp : 468 nm dominant wavelength Color : 3351FF
swapping w / 4 vio/2 blue is fine or any combo of blues 2:2:2 RB:B:VIO
4) 6 white = 6000k white (prob slight yellow)

 

[topjimmy]

So I ordered the apex 0-10v converter from blueacro, but he never shipped it, and eventually refunded me. Which is fine. But, I still have to figure out how to control my blueacro driver from my ghl controller.

Any ideas on how to do this?

 

[oreo54]

Steves...

Aquarium Controller Interface Harness

www.stevesleds.com

In memory of O2 Surplus I'm posting a photo of his board..

Converting the 0-10v signal from an APEX to a PWM signal - Page 2 - Reef Central Online Community

Page 2- Converting the 0-10v signal from an APEX to a PWM signal Do It Yourself

www.reefcentral.com

If you happen to be using a Profilux Controller, I've got a version built especially for you. This one's powered directly from the 12V line on the controller, so there's no need for any external power. Here's a photo-

A shielded cable is always a good idea, but the software on this convertor employs an averaging function, so spurious signals on the analog inputs don't effect the convertor's PWM output. The convertor basically operates by sampling the input signal a few dozen times per second and then averaging it, before sending it off to the ADC for conversion. The resulting PWM output is rock steady. So much so, that it may be difficult for the convertor to mimic "lightning",as "lightning signals" on the inputs would be subjected to the same signal averaging method.

 

[topjimmy]

Steves...

Aquarium Controller Interface Harness

www.stevesleds.com

In memory of O2 Surplus I'm posting a photo of his board..

Converting the 0-10v signal from an APEX to a PWM signal - Page 2 - Reef Central Online Community

Page 2- Converting the 0-10v signal from an APEX to a PWM signal Do It Yourself

www.reefcentral.com

Thanks.

Looks pretty easy to figure out. I wonder if I can use the 12v wire to provide power to it

 

[oreo54]

Don't see why not.. but "if" I remember correctly the Pi takes a lot of the current.
So you may have an issue if ps isn't large enough.
Board shouldn't take much.

On board 5V voltage regulator for the brain chip..

 

[topjimmy]

Don't see why not.. but "if" I remember correctly the Pi takes a lot of the current.
So you may have an issue if ps isn't large enough.
Board shouldn't take much.

On board 5V voltage regulator for the brain chip..

This is the published pin configuration

28.07.2010, 13:15
Pin Function Color
1 +12V Black
2 Dimming intensity channel 1 Brown
3 GND Red
4 On/off channel 1 (relay control) Orange
5 Dimming intensity channel 2 Yellow
6 On/off channel 2 (relay control) Green
So I'm assuming pin 2 & 5 go to one of the +10v inputs.
What does the -10v? 4 & 6?

 

[EMeyer]

I've got a DIY LED question and this seems like the place to ask it. I hope this doesnt seem like hijacking.

I want a blue LED bar but I dont want to pay the (IMO 2- to 4-fold overpriced) Orphek bar price.
https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/48-blue-plus-light-bar-led-or2-120-orphek/

eBay has similar items for about $80-$90, but the 48" one is always out of stock. (They are in stock at Aliexpress, so I can always buy there instead)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Led-Aquari...ue-Spectrum-Strip-Light-for-Tank/293136414359

That is still overpriced relative to black boxes (fewer components but the same price), so I know we can do better. My questions for the DIY community:
1. Has anyone made a bar-style DIY LED? I'd love to see details if so.
2. How much can we beat the $80-$90 price by going DIY?

Specifically, I want a 48" array of 3W blue/violet LEDs. No special dimming or controls required. I would prefer a design with a fan but if it's worked for others without a fan I'd be open to trying that too.

Thanks!

 

[oreo54]

This is the published pin configuration

28.07.2010, 13:15
Pin Function Color
1 +12V Black
2 Dimming intensity channel 1 Brown
3 GND Red
4 On/off channel 1 (relay control) Orange
5 Dimming intensity channel 2 Yellow
6 On/off channel 2 (relay control) Green
So I'm assuming pin 2 & 5 go to one of the +10v inputs.


What does the -10v? 4 & 6?

AFAICT no not 4/6 are + for the relay off/on and is to shut the drivers off on the 110 line w/ the proper relay...
Like w/ AC/DCdrivers...
Believe not necessary w/ the DC/DC drivers which should dim and got off to zero.

3 GND red is the "common" for all the ps's and drivers BELIEVE..

2,3 ch1
5,3 ch 2
For 10V inputs on converter..

SOMEONE needs to confirm.. but that's how I see it..

 

[oreo54]

I've got a DIY LED question and this seems like the place to ask it. I hope this doesnt seem like hijacking.

I want a blue LED bar but I dont want to pay the (IMO 2- to 4-fold overpriced) Orphek bar price.
https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/48-blue-plus-light-bar-led-or2-120-orphek/

eBay has similar items for about $80-$90, but the 48" one is always out of stock. (They are in stock at Aliexpress, so I can always buy there instead)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Led-Aquari...ue-Spectrum-Strip-Light-for-Tank/293136414359

That is still overpriced relative to black boxes (fewer components but the same price), so I know we can do better. My questions for the DIY community:
1. Has anyone made a bar-style DIY LED? I'd love to see details if so.
2. How much can we beat the $80-$90 price by going DIY?

Specifically, I want a 48" array of 3W blue/violet LEDs. No special dimming or controls required. I would prefer a design with a fan but if it's worked for others without a fan I'd be open to trying that too.

Thanks!

Well considring cheap diodes are 23 cents each. A hunk of aluminum is $10 and if you run them constant voltage .. only need a 12 to 24V switching power supply, heatsink plaster, wire, and some cheap resistors you could do it for under $50
Noramally not built in constant voltage but as long as your diodes are close in voltage (V(f)) souldn't be an issue..
Things like Beamswork snakeyes "3w" lights are built on this principal.

Going constant current will be more expensive..

To be honest shooting for BETTER at the same price is much more fun..

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

So playing around with my camera, trying to take a more accurate picture....

So this is close to what it would look like at what what I thought about running the light at:

8X BLUE -75
8X RB - 75
8X COOL WHITE - 25
4X UV - 75
7X VIOLET - 75 (array came with 4 I added 3 Steve's hyperviolets)
4X RED - 25
4X GREEN - 25
4X MINT - 40

Looking too purple (?).... I was hoping for something in the 12000k-14000k.

Running RB and Blue along with cool white/mint is closer to what I was looking for, but as soon as I add any violets/UV it goes way purple. Basically doesn't look like anything I've seen in any tank in person (LFS). Seems like they either hardly run UV channel, crank their white, or the UV channel is only 1-3 leds...

Might be back to the drawing board as far as the fixture goes as these xr30 clone pucks may be a no go.

Need to dig out another heatsink and try out K16s + fresh fish + blue + cyan....


Any ideas on how to bring this closer to 12-14000k...?


EDIT: this is with cool whites cranked to 70. Closer to what I wanted but still more purple than blue.

 

[oreo54]

So playing around with my camera, trying to take a more accurate picture....

So this is close to what it would look like at what what I thought about running the light at:

8X BLUE -75
8X RB - 75
8X COOL WHITE - 25
4X UV - 75
7X VIOLET - 75 (array came with 4 I added 3 Steve's hyperviolets)
4X RED - 25
4X GREEN - 25
4X MINT - 40

Looking too purple (?).... I was hoping for something in the 12000k-14000k.

Running RB and Blue along with cool white/mint is closer to what I was looking for, but as soon as I add any violets/UV it goes way purple. Basically doesn't look like anything I've seen in any tank in person (LFS). Seems like they either hardly run UV channel, crank their white, or the UV channel is only 1-3 leds...

Might be back to the drawing board as far as the fixture goes as these xr30 clone pucks may be a no go.

Need to dig out another heatsink and try out K16s + fresh fish + blue + cyan....


Any ideas on how to bring this closer to 12-14000k...?


EDIT: this is with cool whites cranked to 70. Closer to what I wanted but still more purple than blue.

For fun, try shutting the RB to zero................and violets to 25%
Just to see if you can get closer..