Help me make a reef like yours

[Ricardo Gomes]

Hey guys,

My setup is this:

Aquarium Scalare: 80x50x50cm - 200L
Sump: 60x40x40cm (3 Divisons) - 96L
Water Replacement Deposit: 10x40x40cm - 16L
Sump Pump: AquaBee UP 2000 (Output 2000l / h)
Circulation Pump: REEF-Tide 6000 Compact DC (Flow Rate 1500 to 6000)
Protein Skimmer: Bubble Magus Curve 5
Thermostat: Eheim 250w
Refractometer: V2 TMC
Lighting: Fluval Marine Spectrum Bluetooth 32W (25 000K)
Sand: 0.1-0.2mm (Fine white sand) 30Kg
Dead Rock: 20Kg (+/-)
*Dead rocks are being treated with bleach right now
*In the next 2 months, add 20Kg (+/-) Live Rock
Synthetic Salt: Still going deeper into the topic
RO: Still going deeper into the topic about stages

My biggest doubts that, unlike the previous experience with Red Sea Max (which I always used sea water for TPA´s) are relative the mandatory use of osmosis water (or if there are products that eliminate this process) when the first water is introduced in the aquarium it must be already osmosis or just tap water?

Another question is regarding media to be used in Sump? Live rock or some kind of chemical or mechanical media? (in the past you used only Purigen and Perlon).

Another question regarding lighting will be enough for LPS corals? (Ex. Cloves, Yellow Polips, Kenia Tree, Green Start Polyp, Coral Mush, Carpet Brown,
Xênia Pompom, Zoanthus, Mushroom, Leather Umbrella)
* Only with time and successfully advancing the aquarium would you risk following the 1W/L rule and advancing on SPS corals.

Biological accelerator: Yes or No? (Seachem Stability) or wait for the live rocks?


The final goal is to have little bit of everything (fish, invertebrates, SPS and LPS corals)
Like in the aquariums of some members of the group that I identified and liked, i will follow something like these lanscape ideas:

Is something missing from me?
As i am still in the construction of setup, all opinions are valid

Thanks,

 

[Dbichler]

Rodi is a must unless you want constant problems. If only using dry rock and dry sand bottle bacteria is a good start. No need for expensive salt mix until sps and even then not a must. As for your lighting I dont know much about that exact system but most likely good for softy and easy lps but most likely short of harder lps and sps by just looking at wattage. Take your time patience is the key to success in reefing.

 

[Super Fly]

Do u have any powerhead for water movement in tank?... didn't see on list.

• RODI - yes, highly recommend to avoid nuisance algae
• Sump - u can put anything here, experiment with what works for you. Each tank is different, what works for others may not work for ur's - this goes for all equipment and methods. Some use LR, some macroalgae, some algae scrubber etc. I don't use filter socks regularly, just occasionally.
• Lighting - not familiar with this light, but they did a review thread here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fluval-marine-reef-3-0-review.487421/
• Bio Accelerator - up to u. Many folks do use chems to speed up. If u prefer the natural old fashion way, then don't.
• Just a warning re. coral list - Kenya tree, GSP and pompom corals are invasive and can overtake ur tank. in my experience GSP are the easiest to control spread by isolating it on a rock island. The other 2 corals will drop heads and spread throughout tank... many have regretted inserting these 2 into their tanks.

Whatever u do, be patient and dont rush to correct problems. Sudden tank parameter changes can do more harm than good.
GL

 

[Ricardo Gomes]

Do u have any powerhead for water movement in tank?... didn't see on list.

• RODI - yes, highly recommend to avoid nuisance algae
• Sump - u can put anything here, experiment with what works for you. Each tank is different, what works for others may not work for ur's - this goes for all equipment and methods. Some use LR, some macroalgae, some algae scrubber etc. I don't use filter socks regularly, just occasionally.
• Lighting - not familiar with this light, but they did a review thread here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fluval-marine-reef-3-0-review.487421/
• Bio Accelerator - up to u. Many folks do use chems to speed up. If u prefer the natural old fashion way, then don't.
• Just a warning re. coral list - Kenya tree, GSP and pompom corals are invasive and can overtake ur tank. in my experience GSP are the easiest to control spread by isolating it on a rock island. The other 2 corals will drop heads and spread throughout tank... many have regretted inserting these 2 into their tanks.

Whatever u do, be patient and dont rush to correct problems. Sudden tank parameter changes can do more harm than good.
GL

Hey Super Fly, tanks for feedback the powerhead is this one, and it comes with a regulator,
Circulation Pump: REEF-Tide 6000 Compact DC (Flow Rate 1500 to 6000)

TMC Reef-Tide 6000 Compact DC Circulation Pump - Marine Fish Shop

TMC Reef-Tide 6000 Compact DC Circulation Pump - High flow and low voltage DC Water Circulation Pump - available at Marine Fish Shop, Holbeach

www.marinefishshop.co.uk

 

[burnetb1]

Definitely get a RODI system. I would watch some BRStv about RODI. They always do a good job explaining. The basic stages are: Sedimentary, carbon, RO membrane, and DI stage. You can get multiple of each stage to improve the life of efficiency of the system, but those are the 4 basic things needed. The DI stage is what makes it different from a drinking water system.

 

[Super Fly]

hmm, not familiar with that powerhead but looks good.
Also, I would recommend leaving enough space from the wall on the right side of tank so your hand can fit between glass and wall. Or else it would be difficult to clean glass from outside unless u plan to clean from the inside using glass cleaning tool with handle

 

[The Aquatic Arsenal]

RODI is a must for most people. The amount of stages needed will probably depend on what is in your tap water. I would suggest finding out if chlorine or chloramines are used as a disinfectant. This will help you determine what Carbon Block you will need.

As for lighting, I would start off with a light that will be able to provide for all of your future needs. T5 lighting can grow anything, but you will need to change out your bulbs approximately every 9-12 months. LED lighting are a lot more controllable, but may end up costing more up front.

Flow would be the next thing to worry about of course. I know Gyre pumps are gaining popularity, and they provide a lot of eater movement.

For salt mix, I wouldn't stress out to much about this just yet. Since you will most likely be starting out with soft coral and LPS, Instant Ocean salt will work just fine. As you grow in the hobby amd learn more about water chemistry and how it works for coral health and growth, you can look for a salt mix that will cater to your needs.

 

[Therinx]

Looks like this is the PAR listed by mfg. for those lights.

3" (8 cm) 6" (15 cm) 12" (30 cm) 18” (46 cm)

376 / 16 290 222 / 8750 90 / 3620 47 / 1940

 

[vetteguy53081]

A good quality salt mix, trace elements and amino acids

 

[Ricardo Gomes]

Hey guys, i am recording all the points that have been spoken and i am grateful for the help, at this moment after the healing of the rock, and follow the landscape, do you think this have a future?

There are about 20 kg of dead rock, i will add another 10kg in Sump, do you think it is necessary to add more rock to the main tank?

Thanks,

 

[Ricardo Gomes]

Hello guys,

I hope everything is fine with you and your families, I think
general in the world we are going through a crisis, and the ideal is really to get safe.

However after the welcome and the first post, some changes were made
both in the layout and in the system:
-Now with more than 40kg of dead Rock (SouthSeas);
-x2 Beamswork HI Lumen 60 (used for about 6 months in my freshwater aquariums);
-Addition of BioBalls + Siporax in Sump, to help increase bacteria (in the future the idea is to remove);
-Water inlet and outlet system has also been changed;
-Buy the AquaMedic Easy Line 90 + Salt from Oceanusiberia 6.7KG (to start cycling in the near future, i intend to change the salt - still under investigation);
-Addition of bacteria with Seachem Stability (i have the skimmer stopped now during the introduction of Seachem bacteria -7days);

But many doubts remain (with regard to the system the Red Sea Max that it had previously was easier to understand the system than in this case) I have been looking for answers but nothing that was very concrete to advance the changes. -Maybe you can help me:

• What is the purpose of these air outlets in the tubes that take the water to Sump?

• Movement of water in the Sump? (i don't see the water moving) is it normal?
• Is there any magic trick to remove noise from the sump's water inlet and outlet? Through your experience and knowing the system that i use inlet water in the Sump and outlet. (I have read and seen a lot, but i did not proceed with any process)?
• I am having difficulties in maintaining the water level of the aquarium of the old owner, i increase it in the aquarium but it automatically passes to SUMP;
• I also having some leaks in the pipes just a few drops? it's dangerous? despite being far from the electrical plugs;

I don't think I forget anything else for now Many thanks!

 

[fishguy242]

hi 1st air outlets, mufflers to quiet down drains
2 water in sump is changing constantly
3 adjust pump to overflow in take try to equal,line in sump ,tank is reef ready will self adjust
4 fix the leaks ,could pop at any time not a good thing!!
happy reefing ,stay safe

 

[fishguy242]

you should start a build thread ,get a badge ,easy to access for info that way @Peace River

 

[Peace River]

It is normal for the water height to be determined by the level of the weir on the overflow in the display tank and the water to fluctuate in the sump. It appears that you have a Durso drain setup so you can research that to get a better understanding of what you have. It is possible for a tiny leak to stop, but IMO it is better to fix the leaks now.

If you chose to make a build thread you can start that here:

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Show off your tank and document your progress.

www.reef2reef.com

Then once you have started the thread you can follow these directions to add a banner under your name for quick access to your build thread:

So you want a MY TANK THREAD badge???

Well, here's the way to get one! STEP 1: Start a tank thread in one of our member tank forums (CLICK HERE). *Btw, it doesn't have to be a new tank. It doesn't matter if your tank has been up for 40+ years, we would still love for you to start a tank thread where we can follow all the updates...

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[Bonifacio]

Hi
Ricardo,
Fix the leaks!! Where are they? I would change the pipes that bring the water from the DT to the sump, put threaded or slip pipes and fitting and put unions, later if you need to make changes it would help!
That green thing is to silent, but I would make different, put a gate valve or a ball valve on the sump near the water and you can dial according.
I just do some changes on my pipes coming from the dt, hope it helps

this is how it was, what I did is, from the union down I downsize the pipes from 50mm to 32mm.

Abraco
Bonifacio

 

[Bonifacio]

By the way I’ve been reading some not so positive things about bioballs under water in the sump (someone said that the only place bioballs should be used it would be on a trickle tower and not submerged ) I was going to use and removed. The bioblocks on Oceanusiberia are on good price.
Abracos
Bonifácio

 

[Ricardo Gomes]

Thank you guys, i will investigate what you said step by step and i will give you news.

Thank again