HELP! RODI is showing 2 PPM!

[Exotrezy]

Hey guys, I have an AquaticLife 5 Stage 200GPD RO (https://amzn.to/42tW6Ge) hooked up to a BRS DI (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister.html). I was using it today and decided to check the water and my TDS meter said that I have 2PPM. I have had this system for a while and I remember when I first hooked them up together i was getting 0 PPM. To be honest I haven't checked my TDS in a while but I did top off my tank like 1-2 weeks ago and everything has been running fine. Any thoughts? If I need to replace on the filters on the RO or change the DI resin, which should I change?

 

[Exotrezy]

This is what the DI Resin looks like currently

 

[Exotrezy]

And this is what the first filter looks like, I think it is the sediment filter. In the pictures from amazon, the filter looks to be white and for me mine is like kinda yellow so I think I might need to be replacing that one. What do you guys think?

 

[AcroNem]

What tds are you getting out of the RO and what is the source water?

 

[UMALUM]

Test your TDS after the membrane to make sure your not just burning through the resin.

 

[Exotrezy]

What tds are you getting out of the RO and what is the source water?

I never checked the TDS straight from the RO but I do have a seperate RO for my house as a backup drinking source and that gives me around 15 so it should be around there. Source water is my Hose water in my backyard. I should mention this, I put the water in a jug for my top off water and it started reading 1 PPM. I then took some of that water in a seperate container to top my tank off with and that water started showing 0 PPM.

 

[PapaFishRocks]

For me, 2ppm isn’t a concern. I don’t replace until I’m hitting double digits.

 

[Miami Reef]

1) Topping off with 2 ppm is not an issue at all, at least temporarily. No sweat.

2) The issue, in my experience, is the DI resin: if it’s not packed tight enough, it will channel. A DI can readily take down 2 ppm TDS.

Don’t underestimate how tight a DI needs to be packed.

 

[Gtinnel]

If your final water is 2 ppm then you need to change your di resin at least. Whether you need to change your membrane will be based on your rejection rate, which to know you have to know the tds of your water directly from the membrane and the tds of your source water. If you change your resin and your membrane needs replaced then you will quickly burn through the new resin. Also replacing your sediment filter will not make any difference to your tds. I let mine get worse looking than yours before I replace it.

I do agree with everyone else that an output of 2 times any anything to be concerned about.

 

[Garf]

I never checked the TDS straight from the RO but I do have a seperate RO for my house as a backup drinking source and that gives me around 15 so it should be around there. Source water is my Hose water in my backyard. I should mention this, I put the water in a jug for my top off water and it started reading 1 PPM. I then took some of that water in a seperate container to top my tank off with and that water started showing 0 PPM.

If you get a dual inline TDS meter, you'll be able to work out when the membrane needs replacing, and when the DI needs changing with the press of a button, or two.

 

[Gtinnel]

If you get a dual inline TDS meter, you'll be able to work out when the membrane needs replacing, and when the DI needs changing with the press of a button, or two.

I’d argue that knowing the tds at three points is critical. Source water, after membrane, and after Di.

 

[Garf]

I’d argue that knowing the tds at three points is critical. Source water, after membrane, and after Di.

Maybe, I just assume source water is "Really high". :)

 

[braaap]

I’d argue that knowing the tds at three points is critical. Source water, after membrane, and after Di.

Yes and no. Your source shouldn’t change much if any. I worry about post membrane and post DI.

 

[jpmazzone]

For me, 2ppm isn’t a concern. I don’t replace until I’m hitting double digits.

I agree with this. This would mean that your membrane does not need to be changed yet.

 

[Freenow54]

Hey guys, I have an AquaticLife 5 Stage 200GPD RO (https://amzn.to/42tW6Ge) hooked up to a BRS DI (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister.html). I was using it today and decided to check the water and my TDS meter said that I have 2PPM. I have had

this system for a while and I remember when I first hooked them up together i was getting 0 PPM. To be honest I haven't checked my TDS in a while but I did top off my tank like 1-2 weeks ago and everything has been running fine. Any thoughts? If I need to replace on the filters on the RO or change the DI resin, which should I change?

main filters on mine every 6 months. Hopefully you have resin yes that is what the meter is for not time related. Give you an idea of main filter on town water after 6 months for ne. Scarry

 

[Asm481]

I don't see where you are testing tds. If it is once the water has gone into a storage container the tds could be high and still good water. A tds of 2 as it leaves the di is to high me. My ro membrane produces 1-2 ppm before di so my di lasts a long time.

 

[Exotrezy]

1) Topping off with 2 ppm is not an issue at all, at least temporarily. No sweat.

2) The issue, in my experience, is the DI resin: if it’s not packed tight enough, it will channel. A DI can readily take down 2 ppm TDS.

Don’t underestimate how tight a DI needs to be packed.

Ok, not sure if you read my reply to the other guy but I transferred it into a different container for my top off which made it go down to 1 PPM and then I took some out of that container to use for my DIY Coral Snow which that other container got down to 0 PPM. So many it’s just sediment as the sediment filter is turning yellow and isn’t really white anymore. You could be right about the DI though.

 

[Exotrezy]

If your final water is 2 ppm then you need to change your di resin at least. Whether you need to change your membrane will be based on your rejection rate, which to know you have to know the tds of your water directly from the membrane and the tds of your source water. If you change your resin and your membrane needs replaced then you will quickly burn through the new resin. Also replacing your sediment filter will not make any difference to your tds. I let mine get worse looking than yours before I replace it.

I do agree with everyone else that an output of 2 times any anything to be concerned about.

Ok, I will check straight out of the RO next time and let you guys know.

 

[Exotrezy]

If you get a dual inline TDS meter, you'll be able to work out when the membrane needs replacing, and when the DI needs changing with the press of a button, or two.

Yes I know but I got one of those HM Digital TDS Meters as I use it for other things like my brothers FW tank as well.

 

[Exotrezy]

I’d argue that knowing the tds at three points is critical. Source water, after membrane, and after Di.

Ok, Will check