HIGH END Tenuis Hoarder

[SBB Corals]

Shane answer me man lolll above question

yes sir i have answered above

 

[SBB Corals]

Are you feeding your Tenuis Algae Barn Ocean Magic live phytoplankton?

that is is correct about 100mk per day in my 540

 

[Msanchez_4342]

I use the ab plus schedule with no deviations for the g5 i use the G5 pros not the all blues..

Thank you!!

 

[driftin]

Shane, do you know the ingredients in the HPD? I've reached out to them after finding nothing on the website but haven't heard back.

 

[2Sunny]

If it isn't a trade secret any chance you could provide details for the photo below? Like lens, filter, settings, and post production software if any? Beautiful corals but even more amazing photography!

 

[SBB Corals]

Shane, do you know the ingredients in the HPD? I've reached out to them after finding nothing on the website but haven't heard back.

check this link below i think it shares the ingredients its a video

 

[SBB Corals]

If it isn't a trade secret any chance you could provide details for the photo below? Like lens, filter, settings, and post production software if any? Beautiful corals but even more amazing photography!

that is a great question. THis specific shot was taken by @MichaelVargasPhotography so i cannot comment on the exact details. however for the shots i take i use and videos i use a samsung galaxy s8 cellphone with the pro setting. I also use an aquiriclip orange lens and use the all blue Radion lighting setting.

 

[ineption]

Shane you are doing a great job! I am sure my comments may come across as if I am questioning your methods! There is no denying that what you do clearly works and it works really well. This is more for educational and conversational purposes. With that said :, after reading the whole thread carefully I was a little perplexed by your nutrient control method! Please bare with me I am trying to explain a complex thought and break it down

So my understanding with your method is you feed American food HPD that you put in some kind of bag. The contents of HPD is some kind of gelatin agar binder in that food that's once mixed and refrigerated will become a thick chunk that can be cut up put in a bag floating and fish can graze on. I am not entirely sure on contents of it, but I am guessing it's some kind of fish meal based food.
You claim that because its some how doesn't get in to your water column because its binded and in the bag that doesn't release much nutrients in to the tank helping you keep the water stay cleaner! All the food that your fish consume gets pooped out and eventually the poop is converted in to PO4 and No3 we know that fish digestive systems are only around 30% or so efficient so most what they eat isnt fully absorbed by the body so it gets released back in to water. Kind of in & out its almost like energy can not be created nor destroyed so this logic of as long as fish consumed it it will not get in to water as po4 and no3 is a little flowed imho.
So then you use a algae scrubber to remove most of no3 and po4, but then you use Pattasium nitrate or sodium nitrate to does nitrate back in to water to around 16 ppm

So essentially you have a high bio load you feed Heavey you then use a alage scrubber to reduce your no3 and po4 you then add only no3 to around 16ppm and maintain that and po4 is kept around 0.04

So would it a outrageous idea to suggest that what you are doing isnt so different to what I have seen other successful sps keepers do.
Bear with me. We are going to take your formula, but change it up a bit.
We are going to feed normal pellets and some frozen, by doing this we are raising nutrients in the tank like no3 and po4 we are going to use a GFO to lower the PO4 and try to keep it around 0.04 to 0.08 because we are using GFO we are not stripping the NO3 and subsequently don't need to dose them. Everything else like light intensity fish load snails schedules are kept all the same.
I am wondering if that would work? The real formula is keeping po4 low and no3 high?

 

[FMF0331]

;Woot

 

[MentalNote]

Ineption, slight hole, on post 141, Shane writes “right now my po4 is closer to .18 and colors look amazing.”

I’m not sure if this is a temporary outlier or somewhat normal.

 

[SBB Corals]

Shane you are doing a great job! I am sure my comments may come across as if I am questioning your methods! There is no denying that what you do clearly works and it works really well. This is more for educational and conversational purposes. With that said :, after reading the whole thread carefully I was a little perplexed by your nutrient control method! Please bare with me I am trying to explain a complex thought and break it down

So my understanding with your method is you feed American food HPD that you put in some kind of bag. The contents of HPD is some kind of gelatin agar binder in that food that's once mixed and refrigerated will become a thick chunk that can be cut up put in a bag floating and fish can graze on. I am not entirely sure on contents of it, but I am guessing it's some kind of fish meal based food.
You claim that because its some how doesn't get in to your water column because its binded and in the bag that doesn't release much nutrients in to the tank helping you keep the water stay cleaner! All the food that your fish consume gets pooped out and eventually the poop is converted in to PO4 and No3 we know that fish digestive systems are only around 30% or so efficient so most what they eat isnt fully absorbed by the body so it gets released back in to water. Kind of in & out its almost like energy can not be created nor destroyed so this logic of as long as fish consumed it it will not get in to water as po4 and no3 is a little flowed imho.
So then you use a algae scrubber to remove most of no3 and po4, but then you use Pattasium nitrate or sodium nitrate to does nitrate back in to water to around 16 ppm

So essentially you have a high bio load you feed Heavey you then use a alage scrubber to reduce your no3 and po4 you then add only no3 to around 16ppm and maintain that and po4 is kept around 0.04

So would it a outrageous idea to suggest that what you are doing isnt so different to what I have seen other successful sps keepers do.
Bear with me. We are going to take your formula, but change it up a bit.
We are going to feed normal pellets and some frozen, by doing this we are raising nutrients in the tank like no3 and po4 we are going to use a GFO to lower the PO4 and try to keep it around 0.04 to 0.08 because we are using GFO we are not stripping the NO3 and subsequently don't need to dose them. Everything else like light intensity fish load snails schedules are kept all the same.
I am wondering if that would work? The real formula is keeping po4 low and no3 high?

good comments! my po4 is around .18 ppm currently. Most people will feed and not all the food gets eaten. some people feed pellets, frozen food or flakes and it goes all into the system. the point is that the fish don't eat it all and a lot of the food gets trapped somewhere under a rock and breaks down and rots. The way i feed the food doesn't rot. it goes into the fish stomach.. maybe it then gets pooped out and rots but i dont think its the same as flakes all around rotting and large piece of frozen food rotting. So the idea is i don't have excess food all around the the tank rotting. Also this method may not work for everyone and i am not an expert but sharing what has worked for me

 

[xsquyz]

good comments! my po4 is around .18 ppm currently. Most people will feed and not all the food gets eaten. some people feed pellets, frozen food or flakes and it goes all into the system. the point is that the fish don't eat it all and a lot of the food gets trapped somewhere under a rock and breaks down and rots. The way i feed the food doesn't rot. it goes into the fish stomach.. maybe it then gets pooped out and rots but i dont think its the same as flakes all around rotting and large piece of frozen food rotting. So the idea is i don't have excess food all around the the tank rotting. Also this method may not work for everyone and i am not an expert but sharing what has worked for me

You cant explain it any simpler than that.

 

[aslmx]

i have seen the best results when my no3 is between 16 and 32 and my po4 is between .04 and .08 i am not claiming to be an expert so maybe they do look better for others at lowers levels. Im just sharing what works for me

If high nitrates are the key then I’m sitting on a gold mine.

 

[SBB Corals]

If high nitrates are the key then I’m sitting on a gold mine.

well that and everything else has to be in line!!!

 

[Epic Aquaculture]

This may be the nicest Frag in our whole system at the moment. Going to be Hard to let this one go as i really want to save it for the grow out

Love me some Purplicious! Mine is doing great!

 

[aslmx]

well that and everything else has to be in line!!!

I knew there was a catch

 

[Global boom]

Hi guys after 3 years I feel like this tank is decent enough and need to start a new tank... I set up a new 120 Gallon Display tank with some bonsai tree Rock work and plan to select some frags from the main display for this new tenuis grow out. its going to be a long journey replicating the main system parameters and growing the selected frags out. I am also excited to see how the radian g5s compare to the g4s. In the current tank they are grown using the g4s and the new tank will be the g5s.

Below is the new 120 Gallon Display tank with the Bonsai Tree branches. this is the tank that will get the new frah cutting. Will be fun to see them grow and crust onto the branches

I was wondering if you can share with me how you cycle new sps tanks? When do you start dosing no3 and PO4 and how do you start the cycle and when do you put fish in thanks you!

 

[SBB Corals]

I was wondering if you can share with me how you cycle new sps tanks? When do you start dosing no3 and PO4 and how do you start the cycle and when do you put fish in thanks you!

thanks for your question. In terms of cycling it will take a long time IMO 1st i would start and get 2 pounds of live rock per gallon. You can get the dry rock type from BRS. just throw the rock into your tank. if you do use this dry rock i would then go to your local LFS and get another 20 pounds or so live rock to seed your tank. I would then just let it sit there for 1 month and let it do its thing.. once 1 month goes by i would get some fish. depending on how big of a tank i would start with a few tangs if 100 plus gallons.. then get fritz turbo start 900 and also microbactor and throw that into the tank. then let it all sit for another 60 days. Once you do this and reach the 3 month mark i would start testing for alk, calc, mag, no3 and po4. you may notice that the no3 and po4 is high.. you then need to control this with an algae scrubber or refugium and skimmer. You wont need to dose no3 and po4 unless they are low... its takes a long time to cycle a tank and alot of learning so take it slow...

my new build has not been cycled for over 8 months and now i need to get the po4 down and no3 down because they are threw the roof. i plan to syphon out all the detritus put some flow in and also put on a scrubber and skimmer. i am in the process of doing all this now.. starting with cleaning the tank this coming money of all detritus and putting some mp40s on the tank.. i will post all this progress as it happens

 

[ddaddy2420]

Hey man, I purchased a starter pack from American HPD and made my first batch the other day. My question is how long can you leave this stuff in the tank? If it's not all eaten, is it ok to just leave it in all day? Or should i remove it after 2-3 hrs no matter how much is left?

Was worried when i made my first batch because it makes a lot and it will take me a while for my fish to go thru this. But i found out you can freeze it so it's all good. Thanks for all your information, it's very helpful.

 

[SBB Corals]

Hey man, I purchased a starter pack from American HPD and made my first batch the other day. My question is how long can you leave this stuff in the tank? If it's not all eaten, is it ok to just leave it in all day? Or should i remove it after 2-3 hrs no matter how much is left?

Was worried when i made my first batch because it makes a lot and it will take me a while for my fish to go thru this. But i found out you can freeze it so it's all good. Thanks for all your information, it's very helpful.

Hello thanks for your question and contribution to this thread When i use the food i leave enough in so the fish eat for about 2 hours. If there is some left after 2 hours remove it from the bag and the tank. when you 1st start using this food you have to train the fish to eat it as they wont know they are being fed.. so what i suggest it to put whatever you are feeding the fish now into the food mix. After about 2 weeks they will get used to eating this way and you can remove your current food from the mix. Once the fish learn it is there they will pick on the good for hours. Also once you get going with the food monitor your no3 and po4 levels closely as they may drop.. after about 2 months of using the food your tank should become fully adjusted to the food.. If after 2 months you still have high po4 or no3 you reduce the food to the fish eat it within an hour.. or if your po4 and no3 remains low you can feed the fish more so they finish it in 3 hours... you will have to adjust this all as you go ect.. also another tip is you need to use boiling water to mix the food. If the water is not boiling it wont mix and gel properly.. please let me know if you have any other questions and let hear your results with it once you get going!!!!!!