@Humblefish how long would you recommend to QT a Tuxedo Urchin? Never had one of these so not sure if it actually has a hard "she'll" onto which Tomonts may attach.
How to Quarantine
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Humblefish
Dr. Fish
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Tomonts cannot attach to urchins or starfish. However, you'd want to pour some tank water over it (and into a bucket to be discarded) to "wash away" any theronts which might have landed on it. OR you could just isolate it to a fishless environment for 48 hrs to be completely safe.
Mjl714
Valuable Member
15gal quarantine, sponge filter, heater, two pieces of pvc, 78degrees, 1.025sg. Have added 37ml of kordons copper aid (new bottle) over past two weeks, still no measurable copper using brand new API test kit. 4 lined wrasse still struggling, flashing, scratching, and not eating. Thinking of switching and starting Cuprimine, or, what do you guys think?
melypr1985
totally addicted
I've seen this happen a few times with copperaid. Not sure why really. You could switch to copper safe or Cupramine. Either way, run carbon and do a large water change before changing brands/types of copper. Remember, if you switch to cupramine you'll need the seachem or salifert test kit.
melypr1985
totally addicted
As long as it's not a defective bottle/batch then it should, but I'm thinking it's something wrong with the product. It seems like about a year ago there was a girl that had to buy three bottles to get it up to therapeutic levels...I might be remembering a bit wrong on the amount, but it was waaay more than normal.
melypr1985
totally addicted
IMO it's worth it to just switch to another brand or type. I've never had problems with either cupramine or coppersafe in this regard.
Finally managed to read thru this entire thread--what a wealth of information. The case studies really help reinforce the treatment stickies. So now I am a believer...quarantine everything wet!
I am setting up for my first TTM process and I have a couple of questions:
(1) I understand all QTs should be separated from the DT and each other by at least 10 ft. What about TTM B when I am setting up the 2nd, 3rd tank change, etc., prior to the transfer from TTM A? I assume because the way TTM works, it out runs the encysted stage of Ich, I should not be too concerned about any potential aerosol transmission between TTM tanks in the same series, correct? In other words, they can be set up close to one another for the brief period during transfer (with consideration to minimize transfer of water from old to new tank). There would be a couple of hours overlap as temperature and salinity are equalized between tanks and the new tank water is aerated.
(2) And what about when I complete the 4th transfer (end of day 12) and want to transfer again to a larger HT for an additional 30 days of observation? If this tank is being set up as a 5th sterile tank can it be within the 10 foot window? I understand if it were already cycled and running during the TTM period it would have to be at least 10 feet away from the TTM tanks.
I am setting up for my first TTM process and I have a couple of questions:
(1) I understand all QTs should be separated from the DT and each other by at least 10 ft. What about TTM B when I am setting up the 2nd, 3rd tank change, etc., prior to the transfer from TTM A? I assume because the way TTM works, it out runs the encysted stage of Ich, I should not be too concerned about any potential aerosol transmission between TTM tanks in the same series, correct? In other words, they can be set up close to one another for the brief period during transfer (with consideration to minimize transfer of water from old to new tank). There would be a couple of hours overlap as temperature and salinity are equalized between tanks and the new tank water is aerated.
(2) And what about when I complete the 4th transfer (end of day 12) and want to transfer again to a larger HT for an additional 30 days of observation? If this tank is being set up as a 5th sterile tank can it be within the 10 foot window? I understand if it were already cycled and running during the TTM period it would have to be at least 10 feet away from the TTM tanks.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Good questions!
Technically, by the last transfer ich shouldn't be present at all. The last (i believe) two transfers are for safety and to allow for mistakes. I think it's fine to set up the last tank near the TTM tank for the last transfer. You are right, if it was to be set up and running the whole time, it would need to be outside the 10 feet.
Yes, the new TTM tank can be next to the old one while doing the transfer. The old one is then taken down, cleaned and left to dry.
Technically, by the last transfer ich shouldn't be present at all. The last (i believe) two transfers are for safety and to allow for mistakes. I think it's fine to set up the last tank near the TTM tank for the last transfer. You are right, if it was to be set up and running the whole time, it would need to be outside the 10 feet.
melypr1985
totally addicted
azbigjohn
Valuable Member
Silly question related to Coppersafe.
I have stuff for my QT (net, hose, filter, etc...) that will never touch a non-QT system, but it just dawned on me that I only have onegrvel vac / Siphon hose for water changes...
Should I get a new one as the old one has drained water from a tank with copper in it? Or would rinsing it well/drying it remove any possibility of transferring copper into my DT?
I have stuff for my QT (net, hose, filter, etc...) that will never touch a non-QT system, but it just dawned on me that I only have onegrvel vac / Siphon hose for water changes...
Should I get a new one as the old one has drained water from a tank with copper in it? Or would rinsing it well/drying it remove any possibility of transferring copper into my DT?
melypr1985
totally addicted
It would be best to have a dedicated siphon hose for the QT just to eliminate the possibility of cross- contamination between display and qt. I wouldn't worry overmuch about transferring copper from the QT into the display.. more transferring disease from the QT into the DT.
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Kinda off in neverland but question for melpyr or humble
If I have an in wall 75 gallon freshwater and 30 gal freshwater tank (both been up for over 3yrs never sign of ich) that are within 10' range to saltwater QT is ich capable of switching from freshwater to salt ?
Or different strain/species?
If I have an in wall 75 gallon freshwater and 30 gal freshwater tank (both been up for over 3yrs never sign of ich) that are within 10' range to saltwater QT is ich capable of switching from freshwater to salt ?
Or different strain/species?
melypr1985
totally addicted
No it's not possible. Or if it did, it would die. Freshwater ich and Saltwater ich are actually completely different species and parasites.... they are both treated differently as well.
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Thanks for being so helpful to those of us that are learning a new adventure ;-)
melypr1985
totally addicted
anytime sweetie
Zack K
The Butterfly Guy
Okay so I have just read through 75% of this thread and was wondering if I was able to use my DT water to fill up a 20gal and just passively observe while my fish was in QT and take action when needed. I am picking up the 20 tall tomorrow with PVC and a Longnose Butterfly. My LFS has had this little guy for about a month (fish isn't super popular by me) and he is doing excellent and is eating. I have a Light and heater and Bubbler. So would it be okay to "passively observe this guy and for how long before he hits the DT
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