How to Start?

Harold Green

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All good advice from everyone. I'd like to add go to your local marine fish stores. Some have nano tanks set up with live animals so you can see whats possible in a small tank. Seeing is the best way to get an idea of what's possible. First rule. Never use tap water to make your salt water. Second rule. Saltwater will support much less life that a freshwater tank so don't overstock it. Third rule. It can take six or more weeks to cycle a tank before it's ready to add animals. A year to be able to keep challenging animals. Stability is rule. Don't let much water evaporate before topping up. Don't let temperature vary more than a few degrees, less if possible. Water flow is critical. The ocean is swaying animals back and forth constantly and they need good flow in your tank to bring nutrients and get rid of waste. Overshoot it on filters. You want to have a filter rated for several times your tank volume. The rock you add will be important in maintaining your water quality. Have enough of good quality rock. Now research until you have enough answers to feel comfortable.
 

gcrawford

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The learning process is actually fun. Don't expect perfection and learn from others' mistakes (as well as your own). Maybe consider a 40 gallon breeder tank. They are readily available at the dollar a gallon sale at P&tco and give you enough water volume to make small mistakes without catastrophe. RODI is a must and consider an ATO as well. Look for local reef clubs as they can help (and donate corals) for you to try.
 
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Judy@SYA

Judy@SYA

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Thank you all for the GREAT answers! Lots of small bites of information to chew on and some great links to dive into and soak up. I'm actually on the road, away from home right now, but can't wait to get back to DC and find some good LFSs to explore. I'll be around, reading lots and asking lots of questions in the meantime.

First question -- where do you get RODI water? Will I need to buy some kind of filter for my tap? (Do they make portable filters for RODI?) Bottled water doesn't seem like a very practical way to fill and maintain a tank, but if I must, I must.

As a military family, we move frequently and live in a different house on average of every 18 months or so (sometimes two years, sometimes one), so I can't consider any permanent filtering systems at this time. This is also why I need to keep the footprint of the project relatively small. Ideally, I'd like to get a nice stand that can house a sump in the cabinet below the main display tank.
 

melypr1985

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You can buy RODI water from most LFS's or buy a RODI unit. The one I used to have just screwed to the wall and connected to the water line of the washing machine. It was in an apartment and was far from permanent. There are tons of them out there. Do a search for it on ebay or airwaterice.com.
 

ca2or

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I completely agree with the statement above, he pretty much hit the nail right on the head. And provided a lot of good information. The only thing that I would second guess as numerous times and from personal experience it is been thought that a 55 gallon tank was the perfect beginners tank. A 20 gallon without a sump can be demanding for beginners. But if you do your research and stay on top of the water parameters regularly it should be okay. In that size of a tank and only doing corallimorphians and softies t5ho should be plenty in that tank. You're going to need heaters and keep your temperature for most saltwater inhabitants other than cold water species at roughly 78 - 82 degrees. Regardless of what anybody tells you do not cycle your tank with a damsel fish these fish are extremely hard to get out can cause havoc as their territorial and it it can harm the fish going through the high levels of ammonia and nitrite. If you look up cycling and look up water parameters or water chemistry that will give you a very good and basic idea of what to expect at the beginning. Sorry if any of this is jumbled but I have to talk to text right now As I am at work.
I think that was pretty good for talk to text....just saying
 

ca2or

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Thank you all for the GREAT answers! Lots of small bites of information to chew on and some great links to dive into and soak up. I'm actually on the road, away from home right now, but can't wait to get back to DC and find some good LFSs to explore. I'll be around, reading lots and asking lots of questions in the meantime.

First question -- where do you get RODI water? Will I need to buy some kind of filter for my tap? (Do they make portable filters for RODI?) Bottled water doesn't seem like a very practical way to fill and maintain a tank, but if I must, I must.

As a military family, we move frequently and live in a different house on average of every 18 months or so (sometimes two years, sometimes one), so I can't consider any permanent filtering systems at this time. This is also why I need to keep the footprint of the project relatively small. Ideally, I'd like to get a nice stand that can house a sump in the cabinet below the main display tank.
Either get an RODI unit or go to an LFS, they typically sell water.
 

Harold Green

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Okay Judy the fact that you need to tear the tank down and move it frequently does change a lot of options. Your best bet would probably be a good all in one tank that has the filter and lights built into the hood. Less hardware required and the nano tanks are available most places. If you go that route try to find one with led lights in the hood to help keep the heat down from the lights. If you decide to start with a plain tank instead a 29 gallon has the same footprint as a twenty long only taller and not much heavier, and with salt water the larger the tank the easier it is to maintain parameters of the tank. Small tanks can evaporate a half gallon or more of water a day. You can buy ro water at most marine fish stores. You can also buy a small ro unit that hooks up to a faucet or even a water hose so it can be moved easily. All you need is a water faucet and a drain. I've never owned one of the small all in one tanks but I'm sure there are plenty of members here who do and can advise you which ones to consider. Soft corals you should be able to pack up and move without to much difficulty but with fish, except for some of the smaller hardier varieties I'd sell them and repurchase after each move.
 

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