Ich

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Add a few drop of this and they won’t know the difference will scarf it down

CB5BD05B-45AD-4C7B-AAE4-BD5D127C58FA.png
I ordered some of that and selcon along with in sterilzer and the seachem water treatment kit
 

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So is the new fallow period 92 days or still 76?
I’m gonna have to do some reading on this one. When I upgrade to a new tank, I’ll be requarantining all fish on the way to the new tank. No current symptoms, but got lazy and stopped quarantining corals. So something could have hitch hiked in on those. Just need to figure out how long to leave the corals in the old tank before transfer. It’ll be 6 months before I transfer corals anyways, so I don’t guess it really matters. 76 or 92 days
 

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So is the new fallow period 92 days or still 76?
I’m gonna have to do some reading on this one. When I upgrade to a new tank, I’ll be requarantining all fish on the way to the new tank. No current symptoms, but got lazy and stopped quarantining corals. So something could have hitch hiked in on those. Just need to figure out how long to leave the corals in the old tank before transfer. It’ll be 6 months before I transfer corals anyways, so I don’t guess it really matters. 76 or 92 days

Some reading on this topic: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-returns-after-76-day-fallow.350504/
 

ca1ore

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As others have noted, it really comes down to ich elimination versus ich management. In your case, with only three fish, i would remove and treat them. On large systems, with a lot of fish, ich management is at least worth considering. I have practiced the latter for years and have had essentially no losses. A few things to consider:

1. The first, and most important thing, is to have healthy fish. Healthy fish means a thick slime coat which means they can resist the parasite. Lots of people recommend garlic and vitamins, but I don't find that they do much, if anything. Fish get everything they need from quality foods and variety.
2. For reasons that are not entirely clear to me, ich management is more effective in a reef tank with lots of corals and inverts than a FOWLR. Perhaps something eats the parasites, or perhaps its just harder for them to settle in a high flow tank.
3. Things like a UV sterilizer and DE filter will not eliminate the ich, but they will reduce parasite pressures, giving your fish a better chance to fight it off.

If you go with the ich management approach, there will be fish that you cannot keep - the Achilles tang for example. So if something like that is on your must-have list, go ich eradication ….. and QT all newcomers.
 
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As others have noted, it really comes down to ich elimination versus ich management. In your case, with only three fish, i would remove and treat them. On large systems, with a lot of fish, ich management is at least worth considering. I have practiced the latter for years and have had essentially no losses. A few things to consider:

1. The first, and most important thing, is to have healthy fish. Healthy fish means a thick slime coat which means they can resist the parasite. Lots of people recommend garlic and vitamins, but I don't find that they do much, if anything. Fish get everything they need from quality foods and variety.
2. For reasons that are not entirely clear to me, ich management is more effective in a reef tank with lots of corals and inverts than a FOWLR. Perhaps something eats the parasites, or perhaps its just harder for them to settle in a high flow tank.
3. Things like a UV sterilizer and DE filter will not eliminate the ich, but they will reduce parasite pressures, giving your fish a better chance to fight it off.

If you go with the ich management approach, there will be fish that you cannot keep - the Achilles tang for example. So if something like that is on your must-have list, go ich eradication ….. and QT all newcomers.
im going to mange the ich because i will not be getting any more fish, i orderd a uv sterilizer to help
 

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I'd go for 30, especially if you are going to go through a prolonged fallow period and your fish need to be in a QT for close to 3 months.
I have a 13 gallon and a 40. If it is a large fish obviously a 10 won’t suffice but I had 3 fish in a 13 gallon for months while we cycled the DT (actually bought the fish before we plumbed and setup the DT because my husband ended up breaking his back which set us back). I don’t know when Petco is having their next $1 per gallon sale but that’s a good way to get a sick tank. If you belong to your local reef club and have an emergency many folks are willing to lend or sell supplies to you at greatly discounted prices because reefers like helping other reefers! Good luck with the ich. I had a blue tang that, even though it was QT’d for a long time still got it after moving her to the DT, I didn’t go fallow. She never got sick and none of the other fish got it on them. Just feed your fish well to keep them healthy so they can fight things off. Keep us posted!
 
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I have a 13 gallon and a 40. If it is a large fish obviously a 10 won’t suffice but I had 3 fish in a 13 gallon for months while we cycled the DT (actually bought the fish before we plumbed and setup the DT because my husband ended up breaking his back which set us back). I don’t know when Petco is having their next $1 per gallon sale but that’s a good way to get a sick tank. If you belong to your local reef club and have an emergency many folks are willing to lend or sell supplies to you at greatly discounted prices because reefers like helping other reefers! Good luck with the ich. I had a blue tang that, even though it was QT’d for a long time still got it after moving her to the DT, I didn’t go fallow. She never got sick and none of the other fish got it on them. Just feed your fish well to keep them healthy so they can fight things off. Keep us posted!
Thanks I’m not going to go fallow but I will quarantine in the future
 

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I have began referring new cyclers to this thread and have a request

Anyone here claiming a bottled additive works to prevent crypto and the host of diseases that cause fish loss by month 8 in countless new dry rock startups, please post work threads showing this/multi uses in one thread for various tanks.

make such a thread if hard to locate





The recommend cannot just be from the owner's tank, in order to go against Fallow and QT retention percentages you have to overcome their saves rate, so Im asking to see that as some sort of bulk thread work like fallow/qt provides in droves.






If the bottled dosers do work then we'd like the thread and Ill link that in my cycling thread under when to add fish to a new reef.

I have never seen a single work thread (collection of new tank starts you track day 1 fish - day 100 for example) showing bottled additives controlling ich




What methods are being used to save tanks the most fish there
 
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brandon429

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I have began referring new cyclers to this thread and have a request

Anyone here claiming a bottled additive works to prevent crypto and the host of diseases that cause fish loss by month 8 in countless new dry rock startups, please post work threads showing this/multi uses in one thread for various tanks.

make such a thread if hard to locate





The recommend cannot just be from the owner's tank, in order to go against Fallow and QT retention percentages you have to overcome their saves rate, so Im asking to see that as some sort of bulk thread work like fallow/qt provides in droves.






If the bottled dosers do work then we'd like the thread and Ill link that in my cycling thread under when to add fish to a new reef.

I have never seen a single work thread (collection of new tank starts you track day 1 fish - day 100 for example) showing bottled additives controlling ich




What methods are being used to save tanks the most fish there

Couldn't agree more, but often times I just give up arguing with people. Best we can do is give advice, if it's ignored, it's on them. Everyone will learn one way or another, eventually.... or never... :)
 

brandon429

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I don’t have a dog in the fight, reef is pico/ no fish but in relaying post patterns from thousands of disease posts there’s no comparison to obvious percentages for the different means

bottle treatments get zero pattern studies. Solely one off owner claims, no work threads. What I like most about work threads is non scientists can participate with them as proofs among scientists



It would be easy to make one, simply a post asking to track all bottled options only.

by page ten we know something in pattern, tiny patterns start to emerge in work threads and then by fifty pages the patterns are stronger
bottle preps have no work threads, we need some



fallow and qt have thousands of inspectable work threads, some losses, and the highest disease prevention of any means despite imperfections they win the % game no debate.

for sure we read about quarantine losses, stress, fallow and qt is imperfect.

we read about tanks like Paul’s where complete access to ocean mud pods and rocks and fauna for continual refreshment + actual supermarket seafood prevents disease

what we do not read about in the disease forum is any series of dry rock bottle bac start tanks, feeding retail foods, having success in numbers skipping fallow and quarantine if we sample in groups of ten tanks starting.

eight will lose fish, fast


it’s written here as if bottled preps provide a remote possibility

awaiting work threads for the patterns inspectable. Someone using bottled preps can start their own work thread and ask for participants


what they’re doing in the fish disease forum is what works so far
 
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Sometimes it could be lympho. Did your six line wrasse rub itself on rocks? If not, I will not worry so much. Just keep cleaning filtration material everyday and symptoms will continue to improve over 1-2 months.
 
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Sometimes it could be lympho. Did your six line wrasse rub itself on rocks? If not, I will not worry so much. Just keep cleaning filtration material everyday and symptoms will continue to improve over 1-2 months.
It does not rub it’s self on rocks
 
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Then it doesn't seem to be real ich just yet. Lympho will appear and disappear several times before most fish are completely immune to it. But cleaning filters helps a lot in reducing the total number of parasites in the system.
I change my filter floss and carbon every week is that enough
 

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Feed the crap out of them plenty of mysiss and marine cuisine that has chopped clam etc and selcon big fat healthy fish is the way forward without removing from your DT
 

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Regarding the fallow period, it depends on the temperature. At higher temps the crypt will live its life cycle faster, and have a shorter lifespan overall.

I went through this 10 years ago buying fish directly from the wholesaler and not quarantining. I left my tank fishless for 45 days. I set up a bare bottom 10 gallon for the copper treatment. I think my temp was about 80, but the exact strain of the crypt can affect the lifespan to a degree as well.
 

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