Insane and unstable over 1 year.

[CHSUB]

I don’t know who that is. “Jeanne Villepreux-Power” she created this hobby if were are being honest. And history favours that belief calling her the “Mother of Aquariophily”

I don’t disagree that the man you named is experienced but he didn’t start this hobby “basically” he graduated in 1988. What an insult to those whom actually started this beforehand.

Also, Egyptians had clay aquariums and ponds where they kept fish. What an utterly educated comment you wrote. That’s why I can’t trust your credibility if we are being honest. Just adds to my point that anyone can say anything online.

The “modern” hobby…

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

The “modern” hobby…

The modern hobby is a take on past knowledge she was a marine biologist in her time. She brought forth knowledge he has used.

 

[CHSUB]

The modern hobby is a take on past knowledge she was a marine biologist in her time. She brought forth knowledge he has used.

Ask her than how to fix your aquarium…

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

The “modern” hobby…

Being that she died in the 1800’s that’s not possible. You totally disregarded her major part in all of this and that’s just not cool.

 

[ShawnSaucier]

I used the man made rock! It’s all they have here :( it’s not good. The real ocean rock I got from the Pacific Ocean is so different.

The man made rock is what I used in the 30 and yes it’s crap and I paid a lot for it here in BC as it was in water and said to be “ready to use” and cured and full of ocean bacteria……

It is what it is at this point with the rock my friend and that’s okay. You are over the year mark, and it can only get better.

You could try single 24 hr black outs, but the key in my opinion is trying to remove as much of the physical algae as you can to help give the bacteria a fighting chance in the space war on your rock surface.

In my past experiences with getting as much of those solids off the rocks. into the socks, swapping the socks and then doing the water change helped tremendously, though tedious and time consuming.
Theoretically some of the issues that were happening with your corals may have been nutrient based and not a black out based. But a 24 hrs period of darkness shouldn’t hurt your livestock. Dinos have a habit of becoming waterborne during the evening hours as I am sure you have read. This is also why I find it important to swap the socks before you return to your normal light cycle. You are capturing the water borne spores and removing before they reproduce in the light.

As you know, with anything that you do, the consistency that you do it with will reward you in positive results. And the age old adage of keeping it simple can never be more true. And of course patience, which can sometimes be in short supply after a long battle.
Scrub, sock, water change every 2-3 days. When less growth on the rocks, turkey baste, sock water change. And slowly it will start to shine.

BTW, 15 years in Fresh?? Would love to see a mature Fresh tank pic..

Good Luck! It’ll be worth it

 

[CHSUB]

Being that she died in the 1800’s that’s not possible. You totally disregarded her major part in all of this and that’s just not cool.

you could build a Time Machine, it is theoretically possible and at this point, probably a better discussion.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

It is what it is at this point with the rock my friend and that’s okay. You are over the year mark, and it can only get better.

You could try single 24 hr black outs, but the key in my opinion is trying to remove as much of the physical algae as you can to help give the bacteria a fighting chance in the space war on your rock surface.

In my past experiences with getting as much of those solids off the rocks. into the socks, swapping the socks and then doing the water change helped tremendously, though tedious and time consuming.
Theoretically some of the issues that were happening with your corals may have been nutrient based and not a black out based. But a 24 hrs period of darkness shouldn’t hurt your livestock. Dinos have a habit of becoming waterborne during the evening hours as I am sure you have read. This is also why I find it important to swap the socks before you return to your normal light cycle. You are capturing the water borne spores and removing before they reproduce in the light.

As you know, with anything that you do, the consistency that you do it with will reward you in positive results. And the age old adage of keeping it simple can never be more true. And of course patience, which can sometimes be in short supply after a long battle.
Scrub, sock, water change every 2-3 days. When less growth on the rocks, turkey baste, sock water change. And slowly it will start to shine.

BTW, 15 years in Fresh?? Would love to see a mature Fresh tank pic..

Good Luck! It’ll be worth it

Sent a DM to you with images :)

 

[ShawnSaucier]

Also, not sure on your water source for your top off and water changes.
If you can test those before you use either. Not pointing fingers but if you are purchasing from a store….

If you have your own RODI unit, it may be time to change your membrane and filters.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

Also, not sure on your water source for your top off and water changes.
If you can test those before you use either. Not pointing fingers but if you are purchasing from a store….

If you have your own RODI unit, it may be time to change your membrane and filters.

I purchase distilled water. I did tests neutral ph no tds I have a TDS checker. In Canada the distilled water is not chlorinated like it can be in the USA because it’s a medical product in a sense it must meet standards of distillation purity.

 

[ShawnSaucier]

I purchase distilled water. I did tests neutral ph no tds I have a TDS checker. In Canada the distilled water is not chlorinated like it can be in the USA because it’s a medical product in a sense it must meet standards of distillation purity.

The distilled, though no phosphates , can still be feeding your algae issues.


The thing with the RODI filtration is to filter the water down to its most basic/purest form. This is why it is recommended to never drink RODI water.
So when you are mixing your salt water you are , again theoretically, starting at a 0 base and all additions are in your salt mix.
For your top off, the RODI is (0 base) replenishing the H2O from the evaporation and balancing the elements that are left.

If you can access RODI water, please try this option as well. I know many LFS have this option available, not sure in your area.

My LFS charges about $1.20 a gallon. I have my own unit at home, but notice the line for Fresh and Salt water at the store.

 

[Lavey29]

I purchase distilled water. I did tests neutral ph no tds I have a TDS checker. In Canada the distilled water is not chlorinated like it can be in the USA because it’s a medical product in a sense it must meet standards of distillation purity.

Part of your problems right there

 

[ShawnSaucier]

Part of your problems right there

Can’t fault him, coming from the fresh world distilled would be acceptable for top offf. Ideal would be RODI of course.

 

[00W]

I can accept your experiences as your own. Unless backed by scientific statistical proven data, it’s hard to take it quite literally. Is that clear? Knowledge and experiences as your own isn’t fact nor would your conditions most likely be exact to mine.

I was hoping someone with a background in marine biology would see my post and have better inside and advice.

Again, something may work for me and not work for you and vice versa. But there is always a reason as to why it would work for me and not for you and vice versa and that’s where a chemist and marine biologist should the ones to take those questions on.

Everyone’s very hostile here and upset I defend MY perception and MY experiences. Yet, don’t want to be criticised about or critiqued on their own advice without proof.

You can sit here and say “1 year is young” ok and by that you mean? What is the scientific explanation of “young” when pertaining to reef? Being that the introduction of sensitive creatures can be done 6 months after stating a reef( aprox) , I’m wondering exactly what “young” means scientifically in this case? Can you explain what “old” then means to me on a scientific level? What is the difference between young and old reefs biologically and chemically? And how does one determine an “old” reef vs “young” reefs is people with what could be presumed as an “old” reef have also had stability problems for the past 15 years let’s say?


See how unless you’re a scientist it’s all mere speculations? Again, your experience isn’t scientific data it’s just trial and errors your way.

I am the least hostile person you will ever meet.
Just trying to help along with everyone else.
Usually when someone is defending themselves vehemently as you are here it leads me to believe you are actually questioning what you are saying.
Just sayin....

 

[Lavey29]

Enjoy your popcorn. I call out BS when I hear it. I call out the things I tried that everyone told me to do that failed. Now they want me to try them again. Sorry makes no sense.

The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.

Kind of begs the question of why you posted this thread? Apparently you have another similar thread but didn't like the answers there I guess? They didn't allign with your view of how to address your problems? That's fine, you have already made up your mind probably well before you started this thread so just go with what you feel will give you the results you want. Hopefully they won't be temporary results like last time. I can tell you after my tank hit the year mark it became much more stable and predictable but I also learned early on to avoid harsh chemicals unless it is a last resort to save a tank crash or something.

 

[Lavey29]

Can’t fault him, coming from the fresh world distilled would be acceptable for top offf. Ideal would be RODI of course.

True

 

[00W]

I’m sure it has extended knowledge yet nothing backed by science. People write books all the time doesn’t means it’s 100% credible. There are books on a lot of controversial topics people saying not to do things proven to work and save lives. So I can’t just trust a book written by god knows who with what kind of agenda

You are kidding here I hope?

 

[00W]

I purchase distilled water. I did tests neutral ph no tds I have a TDS checker. In Canada the distilled water is not chlorinated like it can be in the USA because it’s a medical product in a sense it must meet standards of distillation purity.

Distilled water is not chlorinated.
It can, however contain heavy metals especially copper depending upon the process and or the vats it's stored in and the pipes it goes through.

 

[Jake_v]

Just my free advice here... it's probably worth what you pay for it. 1) Stop with the chemicals, 2) purchase an ICP-OES or MS test and check all of your levels against NSW levels. This will also check your water source for contaminants. Unless you're checking iodine and iron levels, there is a high probability they are off and fueling your algae issues. 3) black out your tank for 4 days and run a UV sterilizer, change the filter socks before starting your light cycle again.

Check your food source, its likely a bacteria imbalance is causing the issues. Just for reference, my NO3 will drop from 10 ppm to 1~2 overnight without dosing. PO4 will drop from .12 to 0~.03 overnight without dosing. For this reason I dose ammonium bicarbonate every 4 hours and trisodium phosphate every 8 hours. I fought dinos for the first few months, they still pop up from time to time if I overfeed and throw the NO3/PO4 balance off.

 

[ShawnSaucier]

Hey now,

Ladies, gents. We are here to help. That’s what this whole thing is about. And we have all been there, the guy is struggling a bit and frustrated.

Not saying that interactions on both ends haven’t been lacking in manners or patience. But as senior hobbyist we should be recognizing this and taking a higher standard with how we interact.

We know that what may work for me, may not work for you, or building two tanks, right next to each other, same rock, lights , water, etc can yield different results.


When I started in this hobby there was nowhere near the amount of info or technology that we have today. And on top of that, the amount of hobbyist has grown exponentially.

And if you feel duped, no results and wasted money going out the door, you may find it hard to accept people’s hard opinions. And unfortunately our own perception on how we are reading responses can be muddled by our own environmental influences.


I know it’s a common thing for things to get out of hand lately in some of the forums, and that why I find myself skimming mostly. Would be nicer if we started from a point of just helping.

You can lead a horse…

 

[IceNein]

You keep asking for advice from marine biologists, but marine biologists do not study aquaria, and I think they would be the first to tell you that. In fact the avoid data from aquariums at all costs because animals do not behave the same way in aquaria as they do in the oceans, and they care about how animals behave in their natural habitat.

Let me ask you a question: Do you think a marine biologist would say that dinoflagellates are bad?