Is My InkBird Heater Controller Working Like It Should?

[Fish Fan]

Hey guys!

I have an InkBird heater controller that I got used. I don't know the exact model off hand, but it is an aquarium specific controller, it has one temp sensor and controls two heaters (work 1 and Work 2). It is currently driving one 200 watt BRS titanium heating element.

I went through the settings, and I think - if I understand it correctly - that I have the set temp at 78 F, and I set it to allow for only 1 degree off that before it kicks on.

I don't expect this InkBird to be perfect, and I do understand hysteresis (overshooting the set point). But looking at my tank controller for the last three or four days the InkBird has been running, it says my max temp over this time was 78.9 F and the min temp was 76.6 F. I should note that the InkBird and the tank controller do use different temp probes, but they read very close to each other, and forgetting about the specific value, it still seems like a pretty big range of temp to me. And this is after only about 4 days of using the InkBird.

Is this typical of these temp controllers? Is there something I'm missing in the setup to get this temp a little tighter? Is mine not functioning well since I got mine used? I know there are some InkBird haters on R2R, but I also know many are very happy with them.

I did recently pick up a Ranco to use on another tank now in progress, I'll be interested to see how that works compared to the InkBird.

Thanks guys!

 

[brclark82]

I have mine set to turn on at 78.0 on off at 78.5 and I never see 77.9 or 78.6…

 

[Fish Fan]

I have mine set to turn on at 78.0 on off at 78.5 and I never see 77.9 or 78.6…

Thank you for your help! Unless I'm using mine wrong, there's just a setpoint, and a degree off, as well as like F to C.

What model do you have? I have a feeling I didn't get the most appropriate model.

 

[brclark82]

I should mention I am using a BRS 300w heater on a 75 gallon system

 

[brclark82]

Here is a screenshot with what my 2 set points look like and the model at the top

 

[Fish Fan]

Here is a screenshot with what my 2 set points look like and the model at the top

Is that the wifi version of the InkBird? If so, I don't have that one, I'm running through the setup on the InkBird itself.

 

[brclark82]

Yes Wi-Fi version, on sale for $35

https://a.co/d/0Ad6lvz

 

[Reef.]

That sounds about right, you will get a slightly less variable if you change to celsius rather than fahrenhiet, can normally be set to 0.3c

 

[Fish Fan]

That sounds about right, you will get a slightly less variable if you change to celsius rather than fahrenhiet, can normally be set to 0.3c

Thank you for your help! I believe on mine it's 0.5 degrees C, and it's 1 degree F. I mean, it's not horrible, and if it prevents overheating that's awesome (I also have a tank controller backing the InkBird up). I just thought the temp swings would be a little tighter. Maybe mine isn't the best version for aquaria, or maybe mine is an older one.

 

[Reef.]

Thank you for your help! I believe on mine it's 0.5 degrees C, and it's 1 degree F. I mean, it's not horrible, and if it prevents overheating that's awesome (I also have a tank controller backing the InkBird up). I just thought the temp swings would be a little tighter. Maybe mine isn't the best version for aquaria, or maybe mine is an older one.

They can make it tighter but I believe most do this, even Tunze reduces their on/off cycle with their ATOs, they slightly over fill to reduce wear and tear on the switches…I came to accept the variance when someone said it makes for stronger corals, as they are not shocked if one day there is a slight drop and that the seas temp is never stable either, which is actually true.

 

[BasementBox]

From my experience you need to be cautious if the inkbird seemingly is acting up. I had a similar set up 600w brs titanium heater with inkbird. My gfci blew, replaced it, and then my tank was tripping the new gfci randomly.

Later to learn that the inkbird was failing at controlling the brs heater. My electric bill went up over $200 my tank fortunately did not cook but eventually the heater ultimately died. The inkbird didn’t prevent anything.

Lesson is, if you think there’s something possibly faulty. Wouldn’t risk it.

 

[EricR]

First, note that some InkBird controllers only allow for min 1 degree on/off differential while others handle 0.5 degree differential.

My ITC-306A does 0.5 degree difference -- set at 77.0-77.5 my min/max observations are DT swings from 76.9-77.6

Previous ITC-306T (cheaper) was 1.0 degree differential.

How fast your heaters can heat (or cool down) compared to your water volume plays a huge part in the low/high actual temperatures.
*your observed high temp sounds perfect (if I'm reading correctly) while your low sounds VERY SLIGHTLY maybe lowish,,, but not enough where I'd be concerned

EDIT -- corrected numeric typos ... sorry

 

[Gtinnel]

I have 3 inkbirds that I use currently and two of them are set to turn on and off at 1/2 a degree different. According to my apex on those two tanks my temp range for the last week was 1.7 degrees on one tank and 1.4 on the other. My other inkbird is set to a 1 degree difference and according to my apex its range has been 1.3 degrees.

Your range seems a little high to me, but nothing that would concern me, as long as you have another failsafe to turn the whole thing off if the inkbird fails on (which you likely do with your apex).

 

[Fish Fan]

Hey guys! I'm sorry, I didn't see some of these most recent replies, but I appreciate the help!

From my experience you need to be cautious if the inkbird seemingly is acting up. I had a similar set up 600w brs titanium heater with inkbird. My gfci blew, replaced it, and then my tank was tripping the new gfci randomly.

Later to learn that the inkbird was failing at controlling the brs heater. My electric bill went up over $200 my tank fortunately did not cook but eventually the heater ultimately died. The inkbird didn’t prevent anything.

Lesson is, if you think there’s something possibly faulty. Wouldn’t risk it.

Thank you for your help! I have my heater and InkBird backed up by the tank controller, so hopefully that will cut the heater off if the InkBird goes wonky.

First, note that some InkBird controllers only allow for min 1 degree on/off differential while others handle 0.5 degree differential.

My ITC-306A does 0.5 degree difference -- set at 77.0-77.5 my min/max observations are DT swings from 76.9-77.6

Previous ITC-306T (cheaper) was 1.0 degree differential.

How fast your heaters can heat (or cool down) compared to your water volume plays a huge part in the low/high actual temperatures.
*your observed high temp sounds perfect (if I'm reading correctly) while your low sounds VERY SLIGHTLY maybe lowish,,, but not enough where I'd be concerned

EDIT -- corrected numeric typos ... sorry

Thanks for your reply! I think you're right. I have the base model ITC-306T and indeed it is only allowing for a 1 degree differential. I now believe that the ITC-306A (wifi or non-wifi) is the unit to get.

I have 3 inkbirds that I use currently and two of them are set to turn on and off at 1/2 a degree different. According to my apex on those two tanks my temp range for the last week was 1.7 degrees on one tank and 1.4 on the other. My other inkbird is set to a 1 degree difference and according to my apex its range has been 1.3 degrees.

Your range seems a little high to me, but nothing that would concern me, as long as you have another failsafe to turn the whole thing off if the inkbird fails on (which you likely do with your apex).

Thanks for your help! Yes, I do have everything backed up by the tank controller, so hopefully safe there :)

I looked more into this over the last couple of nights. I double checked my settings on the InkBird, and they are fine. I've reset my temp min/max on the tank controller, and twice now in only a few hours I'm getting a temp drift of over two degrees. For example, most recently it ranged from 76.7 to 78.9, which is two whole degrees in just a few hours. What's going to happen over a longer time period or as seasons change? Maybe I'm expecting too much, but I'd like to see it +/- a degree or so.

I may try to swap my ITC-306T to a 306A to see if I can get a tighter differential.

Thanks again for the replies and help, I really appreciate it!

 

[BryanM]

I went with helios instead of inkbird, but basically did the same set up.

That said, I have two titanium heaters, two helios (even tho they can control two heaters, I wanted them controlled seperately), and the apex controls the outlets incase one gets stuck on.

 

[Fish Fan]

I went with helios instead of inkbird, but basically did the same set up.

That said, I have two titanium heaters, two helios (even tho they can control two heaters, I wanted them controlled seperately), and the apex controls the outlets incase one gets stuck on.

Thanks for your reply! What temp range do you see with that setup, min/max?

 

[BryanM]

Thanks for your reply! What temp range do you see with that setup, min/max?

Not sure why the spike, but I don't tend to worry about one off events.

 

[Uncle99]

Thanks for your reply! What temp range do you see with that setup, min/max?

Did you calibrate the INKBIRD to a “known” value?
Otherwise no surprise at variance.

There should be a calibration mode during settings,where you adjust + - .1 degree to match the “known” source.

 

[Fish Fan]

Not sure why the spike, but I don't tend to worry about one off events.

That's a much tighter range than I see with this InkBird.

 

[Fish Fan]

Did you calibrate the INKBIRD to a “known” value?
Otherwise no surprise at variance.

Thanks for your help!

No, I didn't calibrate the InkBird, I don't see anywhere in the instructions I found online to do so. And why would calibration affect the variance?