Is thiz dinos?

[Crass]

Just started dosing phosphate, and will begin dino X tonight as I believe its dino algae? Battling few months now, and tried feeding heavier, lowering phosphates originally with GFO, and manual removal. Covering all rocks and coral ATM, so at this point it's time for dino x.

Hanna phosphates measuring 0 for a while now but It's not ULR

Just want to confirm, can / should I dose phosphates and dino X together?

 

[shwareefer]

Looks like cyano to me.

 

[Jeffcb]

Looks like some type. How old is the tank. N03?

 

[Uncle99]

I dose phosphate each hour and while using Dino X.
I think it’s a good idea to fix the nutrients imbalance, likely where the prob started.
Good luck.

 

[Crass]

Looks like some type. How old is the tank. N03?

Tank is approaching 2 years. All was good and this killed off a bunch of corals (sps and lps)

NO3 is at 5

 

[Jeffcb]

Im sure you have looked there. Probably best place to start.

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Crass]

Im sure you have looked there. Probably best place to start.

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

Thanks! Yep that's where I got the inspo to start dosing phosphate

 

[Jeffcb]

Im no expert but I started getting white slime with bubbles and green slimmer started bleaching on my 250 N03 was zero P04 was zero. I turned off skimmer, stopped water changes, pulled algae out of the refugium and started dosing NeoPhos. Also overfeed fish alot until I got P04. Tank recovered still dont have N03 but corals all look great and white slime is gone. Green Slimmers looks awsome now.

 

[Crass]

Im no expert but I started getting white slime with bubbles and green slimmer started bleaching on my 250 N03 was zero P04 was zero. I turned off skimmer, stopped water changes, pulled algae out of the refugium and started dosing NeoPhos. Also overfeed fish alot until I got P04. Tank recovered still dont have N03 but corals all look great and white slime is gone. Green Slimmers looks awsome now.

 

[Crass]

Hoping i see the same results! Dino x first does last night, removed gfo and carbon, but am running skimmer as it's required with the product. Also first dose of fauna marine elements P went In so fingers crossed. Did a good sized water change yesterday as I can't change any water during dono x treatment, which could be 2 week +

Must be bottomed out NO/PO as even my zoas have been stalled for months now. If I was heavy nutrients i should see some growth on those and other macro algae

 

[brandon429]

hey is this the ten gallon tank

asking because there's a much faster and better way to save it than the current course. what you're using is for giant tanks, its slower and less effective.

 

[Crass]

hey is this the ten gallon tank

asking because there's a much faster and better way to save it than the current course. what you're using is for giant tanks, its slower and less effective.

Yep! Just the 10 gallon, closer to 8 of water volume

 

[brandon429]

there is no method on the planet that can beat dinos better than this in a nano.

this is one of hundreds, recent jobs we've closed, don't think its an isolated example. something to consider:

Algae/Cyano Issue Not Improving, Help Please?

Hi all, I have a Red Sea Reefer 250 that has been up and running for 8 months now. My issue is a strange black algae\cyano growth that has plagued me for the last two months+. I have been treating as follows: cleaning gravel twice weekly 20% water changes twice a week Addition of beneficial...

www.reef2reef.com

though you might think there are downsides to that method, there aren't

notice we didnt add anything to the tank as a doser, we subtracted things


notice we didnt need to identify any aspect of the invasion


or know parameters, like large tankers must do. we made a method that is uniquely available to nano reefers and comprises sixty pages of examples in one thread alone, and we have ten of those type threads across forums. consider a rip clean, we could run yours live time here and watch its predicted outcome unfold.

read the thread start to finish, takes ten mins, no skimming truly see what he did. how he took back ground, cyano vs diatoms vs dinos, doesnt matter, same outcome. that's the prediction.

slow buildup:

Algae Identification

Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?

www.reef2reef.com

there's three more examples. same set of moves, totally different invasions all zapped. plus ~ one year updates after the rip clean for Gator's reef.

 

[Crass]

there is no method on the planet that can beat dinos better than this in a nano.

this is one of hundreds, recent jobs we've closed, don't think its an isolated example. something to consider:

Algae/Cyano Issue Not Improving, Help Please?

Hi all, I have a Red Sea Reefer 250 that has been up and running for 8 months now. My issue is a strange black algae\cyano growth that has plagued me for the last two months+. I have been treating as follows: cleaning gravel twice weekly 20% water changes twice a week Addition of beneficial...

www.reef2reef.com

though you might think there are downsides to that method, there aren't

notice we didnt add anything to the tank as a doser, we subtracted things


notice we didnt need to identify any aspect of the invasion


or know parameters, like large tankers must do. we made a method that is uniquely available to nano reefers and comprises sixty pages of examples in one thread alone, and we have ten of those type threads across forums. consider a rip clean, we could run yours live time here and watch its predicted outcome unfold.

read the thread start to finish, takes ten mins, no skimming truly see what he did. how he took back ground, cyano vs diatoms vs dinos, doesnt matter, same outcome. that's the prediction.

slow buildup:

Algae Identification

Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?

www.reef2reef.com

there's three more examples. same set of moves, totally different invasions all zapped. plus ~ one year updates after the rip clean for Gator's reef.

Thank you for the advice! When cleaning the live rock, do you rinse under tap water or RO only to keep bacteria alive? I was thinking about going bare bottom so this actually could be ideal. Will just stick corals and fish in a container with heater and flow and clean out all sand, scrub the rock Clean and rinse. Keep 50% old water (before disturbing)

 

[brandon429]

We use saltwater


on the rocks as a rinse, that’s perfect preservation of bac. Post a full tank shot in white light of your setup pls/ total custom call can be made uniquely for your tank. Dont worry if looks rough, it makes after pics shine ten times better

we need a dinos example for that second link, if we could rip clean your nano it would contribute well to invasion control science. It cannot harm your reef, if we fail then dinos grow back and you lost nothing.

I think it’ll win, however.

 

[Crass]

We use saltwater


on the rocks as a rinse, that’s perfect preservation of bac. Post a full tank shot in white light of your setup pls/ total custom call can be made uniquely for your tank. Dont worry if looks rough, it makes after pics shine ten times better

we need a dinos example for that second link, if we could rip clean your nano it would contribute well to invasion control science. It cannot harm your reef, if we fail then dinos grow back and you lost nothing.

I think it’ll win, however.

 

[brandon429]

Those before pics are critical. Crucial planning details in fact.

this post will take a sec to build up reflection details in edits, over 20 mins, some safety details stand out markedly here above most rip cleans however due to the degree of mass shown above, nothing is safer than a rip clean because as you can see the mass is removed vs rotted internally.

every method other than a rip clean is that small dilution, internally degrading massive dinos (not cyano) and they’re poisonous when the cells lyse due to X earned kill. Your reef needs actual surgery and export and then it will be safe, any half moves or half cleaning can harm the system due to mass in the bed and rocks. But if we clean correctly it all goes back skip cycle perfect, and we have zero losses of any rip cleans in 7 straight years running them lemme brainstorm on yours for a bit. Brb

 

[brandon429]

Here’s what is coming out of thought preparing based on your pics


we need the classic disassembly rip clean / all four jobs above are the same steps and copying them will skip cycle clean your system. The one change for you is this: no peroxide on first treatment with rocks. It’s for second treatment only

you can see we were burning the rocks with direct peroxide above after they were cleaned but in your systems merely swish the rocks in clean saltwater, toothbrushing the masses off and then re swish.


one swish-pass isn’t going to clean each rock correctly, it’s two or more with light light toothbrush scrubbing of crevices or even paintbrush scrubbing, something light not abrasive. Light brush rinse in saltwater, then do again, set the cleaned rock aside


work up to all rocks cleaned this way, no peroxide and put back in 100% new water matching temp and salinity of your current water, no other params need to match. After it’s clean, reduce your light power levels and ramp back up as if these LEDs are new, that’s a coral bleach control trick we do.


When your tank is done and rip cleaned, no peroxide, the rocks may get a light regrowth but it’ll be nothing like this, and at that point we can lift out rocks and hit with peroxide because when you set them back in the tank it’ll be over no sand or at least cleaned sand, and we can control that mass easier than when it’s full on.


when you rip clean this, do it well. Clean the empty tank out with peroxide, all pumps and lines and heater outer areas, clean it all with peroxide.

but not the rocks. Those are the only source of bacteria you need to effect the skip cycle, do not use bottle bac when it’s done, you don’t need sandbed bac, you need unblanketed rocks as the sole filtration source and saltwater twist swishing plus light brush off cannot undo the filter. I‘m 100% sure this will skip cycle clean your tank, this custom angling. I think you have the potential here of making a serious contribution to dinos control science.

 

[Crass]

Here’s what is coming out of thought preparing based on your pics


we need the classic disassembly rip clean / all four jobs above are the same steps and copying them will skip cycle clean your system. The one change for you is this: no peroxide on first treatment with rocks. It’s for second treatment only

you can see we were burning the rocks with direct peroxide above after they were cleaned but in your systems merely swish the rocks in clean saltwater, toothbrushing the masses off and then re swish.


one swish-pass isn’t going to clean each rock correctly, it’s two or more with light light toothbrush scrubbing of crevices or even paintbrush scrubbing, something light not abrasive. Light brush rinse in saltwater, then do again, set the cleaned rock aside


work up to all rocks cleaned this way, no peroxide and put back in 100% new water matching temp and salinity of your current water, no other params need to match. After it’s clean, reduce your light power levels and ramp back up as if these LEDs are new, that’s a coral bleach control trick we do.


When your tank is done and rip cleaned, no peroxide, the rocks may get a light regrowth but it’ll be nothing like this, and at that point we can lift out rocks and hit with peroxide because when you set them back in the tank it’ll be over no sand or at least cleaned sand, and we can control that mass easier than when it’s full on.


when you rip clean this, do it well. Clean the empty tank out with peroxide, all pumps and lines and heater outer areas, clean it all with peroxide.

but not the rocks. Those are the only source of bacteria you need to effect the skip cycle, do not use bottle bac when it’s done, you don’t need sandbed bac, you need unblanketed rocks as the sole filtration source and saltwater twist swishing plus light brush off cannot undo the filter. I‘m 100% sure this will skip cycle clean your tank, this custom angling. I think you have the potential here of making a serious contribution to dinos control science.

Thank you for the plan! Lays it out nicely, should be easier from here. For the peroxide to clean all but live rock, is their a brand you recommend / amount to use? Just hydrogen peroxide?

 

[brandon429]

Yes just regular 3% from the store. At the very top here in the forum is the sticky about peroxide being added to water to cure dinos and it works very well Troylee shows.

we save that mode for the totally clean condition to fight growback. In his thread they’re dosing it to full mass systems and letting it all die internally but we r reversing course by design, if we ever need it the use will be to fight light growback dusting over the rocks, expected as this is a top scourge in reefing, but it won’t be fighting near the collective mass of dinos after a rip clean so the peroxide will be more powerful on target because there’s less target mass.

we see how the dedicated simple rip works first, save peroxide to the rocks or maybe even added to the water as ace card