It’s getting worse!!

[vetteguy53081]

Not sure if you have other threads but I gave you rundown on Blonde naso tangs and the longer you wait to address the issue will be the more difficulty you face with recovery

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I’ve been feeding alot like 5 times a day and there’s always nori. I work from home so am always with the fish. The naso is small so I figured I can get away with it. Thank you for following my tank. Yes this is the tank I merged.

If it is ich (and I still can’t see clearly that it is or not) feeding them well will NOT cure them. A poor diet or lack of food can make fish more prone to developing ich, but you cannot cure an active infection by feeding them more.

 

[Trillaman954]

Not sure if you have other threads but I gave you rundown on Blonde naso tangs and the longer you wait to address the issue will be the more difficulty you face with recovery

Yes, I’m a working on qt now, I was giving jay merdal the info he asked me for. I didn’t notice he wanted more in depth info. Vett you have been great btw I rlly appreciate you

 

[Trillaman954]

If it is ich (and I still can’t see clearly that it is or not) feeding them well will NOT cure them. A poor diet or lack of food can make fish more prone to developing ich, but you cannot cure an active infection by feeding them more.

Ok noted, those vids are the best I can do, the glass is etched. I’ll try to post better vids

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Sorry for the late response. I have all the info you requested. I’m posting several clips as well. It seems that they no longer have the dots on them. I think the kanaplex binded to their skin when I dosed the dt maybe?




















Mixed reef


93 gallon corner tank with ecosystems sump(size 3612)
mud with chateo caulerpa

Reef octopus 150 s, filter sock, and bio balls for filtration and also running poly labs activated carbon.
For lighting I have 2 AI primes
This is tank transfer from 2 one year old systems. Has maybe 30 pounds of sand in 1 corner. I kept the sand for bacteria, but I wanted to go bare bottom this time.

Hannah checkers:
nitrat: 7.2
Po4: .12
Alk: 8.7

Salifert
Mag. 1400
Cal: 450

API
Nitrite 0
Ammonia
Ph: 8.0

Refractometer
Sal: 35

Have lost a leopard wrasse I’m the last 2 weeks for unknown reason. Was eating and doing fine, was new addition. Inverts are doing well. I even have pom pom crab that survived xfer. (68 resp for bleny 88 for tangs). All fish eating even one with pop eye, dosed kanaplex to DT for said fish.

Thanks - I suspect the leopard wrasse loss was unrelated, they can be pretty delicate.

The general thought is if all of your invertebrates are fine, but the fish have issues, then it is not water quality problem.

I viewed all of the videos, but I can’t confirm if this is ich or not. The angel’s eye isn’t ich, probably a bump or possibly flukes, but it could still have ich.

Do you see any of the fish scratching on the rocks?

 

[Trillaman954]

Thanks - I suspect the leopard wrasse loss was unrelated, they can be pretty delicate.

The general thought is if all of your invertebrates are fine, but the fish have issues, then it is not water quality problem.

I viewed all of the videos, but I can’t confirm if this is ich or not. The angel’s eye isn’t ich, probably a bump or possibly flukes, but it could still have ich.

Do you see any of the fish scratching on the rocks?

Nope none scratching, just the starry blenny going down to the sand bed and exploding it. Something I’ve never seen it do. But he’s also pretty new to the tank, like a month.

When I look close I don’t see anymore white spots like yesterday though. The naso had a whole bunch on his face and now it’s gone. Maybe it was the kanaplex that shrouded their bodies when I dosed?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Nope none scratching, just the starry blenny going down to the sand bed and exploding it. Something I’ve never seen it do. But he’s also pretty new to the tank, like a month.

When I look close I don’t see anymore white spots like yesterday though. The naso had a whole bunch on his face and now it’s gone. Maybe it was the kanaplex that shrouded their bodies when I dosed?

May be tromonts falling off and coming back in numbers. Assume its not over and move forward with treatment plan to be safe

 

[Trillaman954]

Hi, I've responded to three of your threads with follow-up questions, but you hadn't responded. It is VERY difficult to diagnose disease issues from video that is not clear, with no history behind them. Can you please provide clear video (I think you need to clean your glass) as well as look at this thread and answer the questions that you can:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/s...sease-treatment-and-diagnosis-section.775547/
Thanks,

Jay

Looks to be ich. Have you addressed the eye issue yet?
Fish will have to be removed from tank and treated with coppersafe at treatment level 2.25 for a full 30 days
(do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store, a rubbermaid type tub or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

ok so today im off and im going to home depot to buy one of those black bins with the yellow tops for QT tank. i have 3 anthias, 7 chromis, 3 tangs(tomini,scopas,naso), starry blenny, foxfaxe, 2 clowns, flamge angel, banded goby, and mandarin dragonnete. is it ok to put them all together or should i get 2 bins? i know i have to get pvc end so they can hide but what should i get to keep the water quality from going nuts since there wont be any bio filtration? ima put a wavemaker in ea. i dont have HOB filters though.

 

[vetteguy53081]

ok so today im off and im going to home depot to buy one of those black bins with the yellow tops for QT tank. i have 3 anthias, 7 chromis, 3 tangs(tomini,scopas,naso), starry blenny, foxfaxe, 2 clowns, flamge angel, banded goby, and mandarin dragonnete. is it ok to put them all together or should i get 2 bins? i know i have to get pvc end so they can hide but what should i get to keep the water quality from going nuts since there wont be any bio filtration? ima put a wavemaker in ea. i dont have HOB filters though.

Go two bins, preferable clear to allow sufficient oxygen and reduction in aggression and supply air stones to both

 

[Lavey29]

ok so today im off and im going to home depot to buy one of those black bins with the yellow tops for QT tank. i have 3 anthias, 7 chromis, 3 tangs(tomini,scopas,naso), starry blenny, foxfaxe, 2 clowns, flamge angel, banded goby, and mandarin dragonnete. is it ok to put them all together or should i get 2 bins? i know i have to get pvc end so they can hide but what should i get to keep the water quality from going nuts since there wont be any bio filtration? ima put a wavemaker in ea. i dont have HOB filters though.

Your DT has to fallow for 45 to 76 days while you treat fish in QT. Your QT tanks will need some type of filtration, heat and water flow such as an airstone. Water chang will be critical since the QT tanks will not be cycled from the start.

 

[Trillaman954]

Go two bins, preferable clear to allow sufficient oxygen and reduction in aggression and supply air stones to both

should i buy ammonia reducer? if so, what brand would you reccomend?

 

[Trillaman954]

Looks to be ich. Have you addressed the eye issue yet?
Fish will have to be removed from tank and treated with coppersafe at treatment level 2.25 for a full 30 days
(do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store, a rubbermaid type tub or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

They only have api copper test kits at my lfs

 

[vetteguy53081]

They only have api copper test kits at my lfs

false readings with this kit. BRS has them on sale as does AquaCave.com and saltwatertank.com

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

They only have api copper test kits at my lfs

API copper tests work, but they are VERY difficult to read. If you know the exact water volume of the tubs, then you can dose to that, and then test it to get some idea as to what a "normal" test result looks like.

I'm really leery of people setting up treatment tubs on the fly; you'll lose sideways viewing of the fish and that's vital in regards to being able to see the fish eat, how fast it is breathing, how the disease is progressing, etc. As mentioned, ammonia control is also very difficult in a new tub(s). Don't use Prime for ammonia control, Amquel is a better choice. Better still would be to use Amquel AND some "bacteria in a bottle".

 

[Black Ghost]

Whatever is in my tank is getting worse, they are all still eating but now these spots are all over them. Can this be the kanaplex I dosed earlier?






even see it on my chromis

 

[Black Ghost]

false readings with this kit. BRS has them on sale as does AquaCave.com and saltwatertank.com

My

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

My

Sorry - your posts are getting truncated, not sure why....

 

[Trillaman954]

false readings with this kit. BRS has them on sale as does AquaCave.com and saltwatertank.com

They had the seachem copper test instead. I bought that one

 

[Trillaman954]

API copper tests work, but they are VERY difficult to read. If you know the exact water volume of the tubs, then you can dose to that, and then test it to get some idea as to what a "normal" test result looks like.

I'm really leery of people setting up treatment tubs on the fly; you'll lose sideways viewing of the fish and that's vital in regards to being able to see the fish eat, how fast it is breathing, how the disease is progressing, etc. As mentioned, ammonia control is also very difficult in a new tub(s). Don't use Prime for ammonia control, Amquel is a better choice. Better still would be to use Amquel AND some "bacteria in a bottle".

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Sorry - your post was blank.

jay