MaddyP's 12G Long - Node-Red Nano Peninsula

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MaddyP

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If there were ever a 12G nano that was over-engineered more.. I would be shocked! Tank cost a fraction of all the parts! Love it and can't wait to see it full of life! Funny, I was thinking of using the same 12G tank myself to fit into a strange cubby shelf in my kitchen and was proud of myself for finding ways to make it fit with very little room overhead by using super thin reef brite strip leds hidden in the tiny space above it! This thread put me in my place. ;)
Over-engineered is putting in nicely, but thank you! We'll see if it works out. I figure if it doesn't, I'll just revise the plumbing to a more standard setup. :)
 

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Over-engineered is putting in nicely, but thank you! We'll see if it works out. I figure if it doesn't, I'll just revise the plumbing to a more standard setup. :)

I also have a habit of over-engineering things until its abandoned. Bravo for completing it! If it works out.. I may try this some day if I can sort through all the technical stuff beyond raspi. Keep up the great work and lets see some life!
 
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Here is my thinking for in-tank flow. 3D print a couple of low-profile "caps" for the return bulkheads then disguise with rubble. Something like this....

1588953268376.png


Thoughts?
 

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Wouldn't zoa or some other coral grow over that plastic cover and possibly clog the tiny slit? I would think maybe leaving a rock overhang over it to shade it or just covering the original opening with foam and having some rock perched over it in a way that leaves the foam/passage open to flow from whatever direction you prefer might solve that problem.
 
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Wouldn't zoa or some other coral grow over that plastic cover and possibly clog the tiny slit? I would think maybe leaving a rock overhang over it to shade it or just covering the original opening with foam and having some rock perched over it in a way that leaves the foam/passage open to flow from whatever direction you prefer might solve that problem.
Very true, though I could just trim the opening with a razor if zoas started growing over it? The flow coming out should also discourage overgrowth...possibly...
 

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I also have a habit of over-engineering things until its abandoned. Bravo for completing it!

Yeah, I call that 'scope creep' . I'm guilty of that as well... fighting it big time with my own project... HAHA.
But I agree with you... his project is incredible! WOW.

Maddy I can't wait to see this thing in action.
 

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This is a sweet build. Do you mind explaining how those sensor and valves work, for those of us who are less technically savy?
 
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This is a sweet build. Do you mind explaining how those sensor and valves work, for those of us who are less technically savy?
Sure thing!

The idea is to hold the water at a consistent level. This is achieved by measuring the current level with a ultrasonic sensor and calculating how much and how quickly the level needs to change to achieve the desired set point. Based on this calculation, a value is sent to the actuator which in turn opens or closes a ball valve. A change in the ball valve results in a change in water level which is measured by the ultrasonic sensor. This cycle repeats until the the water level reaches the desired set point.
 

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Sure thing!

The idea is to hold the water at a consistent level. This is achieved by measuring the current level with a ultrasonic sensor and calculating how much and how quickly the level needs to change to achieve the desired set point. Based on this calculation, a value is sent to the actuator which in turn opens or closes a ball valve. A change in the ball valve results in a change in water level which is measured by the ultrasonic sensor. This cycle repeats until the the water level reaches the desired set point.

And where does the ultrasonic sensor sit?
 
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And where does the ultrasonic sensor sit?
It will sit in the return section of the sump, similar to a float switch but high enough it will not contact the water. Likely, I will cut a piece of acrylic to place over the return section and mount it there.
 

xiaoxiy

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It will sit in the return section of the sump, similar to a float switch but high enough it will not contact the water. Likely, I will cut a piece of acrylic to place over the return section and mount it there.
So that valve should also act as a check-valve as well eh? Also, what happens during power outages, is that valve designed to also act as a solenoid that shuts off when there's no power?
 
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So that valve should also act as a check-valve as well eh? Also, what happens during power outages, is that valve designed to also act as a solenoid that shuts off when there's no power?
Exactly! It has a built-in fail safe, this version will move to a preset position on power/signal loss via energy stored in capacitors.

It also continuously sends a "status" signal to my controller so I know if there is an error or other issue.
 

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Exactly! It has a built-in fail safe, this version will move to a preset position on power/signal loss via energy stored in capacitors.

It also continuously sends a "status" signal to my controller so I know if there is an error or other issue.
Awesome. I'm so excited to see this build filled and in action! It'll be amazing having no visible. plumbing in the display.

Last question. Barebottom or sand?
 
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Making progress with the water flow ideas! Going with a false bottom (HDPE) which will be machined on the underside to facilitate diverting flow. Thoughts?

1591673971624.png


And the underside of the false bottom. Still need to work through the drain slots...

1591674069338.png


Flow channels will be machined at a 45 degree angle.

1591674154313.png


White HDPE should end up looking somewhat like white sand. Once covered in zoas it'll be harder to distinguish.
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

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