Metal halide switch

[SpSDrew]

So the question is why am I flooding my tank with a thousand LEDs when a 250 watt metal halide can do the same?
Current system is a 90 display (36x24”) SPS only

I have a quad Reefbrite fixture with three Kessil 360x. The tank is flooded with light but I feel like I’ve got hot spots and it’s not even lighting. It grows corals but I feel like very slow.

I was looking at the Reefbrite MH/LED fixtures and possibly changing to just one 250 watt fixture. Thought ?

 

[piranhaman00]

MH will always out perform leds but at a cost, bulbs etc. common knowledge. Is it worth it to you? No one here can answer that

 

[zheka757]

I have just switched from leds to metal halides, still getting use to the shimmer part, not big fan of shimmer,

 

[rtparty]

One Reef Brite reflector will cover 32*24 about 10-12" off the water. Add in your 4 XHOs and you're more than set.

You will have a much better setup IMO

 

[Bpb]

Have you used metal halides before? Have you par mapped your tank to verify if you have hot spots? I’m running a similar lighting setup but on a 60”x24” setup and have no significant hot spotting with a very even and gentle par map.

I’m not trying to discourage you from trying metal halldes. They have their merits. And a single 250 watt bulb would likely be adequate for your tank size…but temper your expectations. You will have much higher light in the center over the bulb than you do on the outsides. And unless you use a DE bulb, one end of the tank will be brighter as well due to the socket.

This coming from years of halide experience using different reflectors and bulb orientations. You may love them, but don’t expect a pure flat intensity response. Don’t even expect it to be better than your current setup in that regard…it’ll likely be worse going from 3 point sources to one, even in a reflector.

All that being what it is, you still may just flat out prefer the look and performance of a single halide reflector. And that’s perfectly fine. Reason alone enough to switch. The Hamilton 14,000k is a perfect looking bulb to my eyes. Needs no improvement

If you want a truly flat and even intensity from end to end, get a 6 or 8 bulb t5ho unit and get away from point source lighting.

 

[SpSDrew]

Have you used metal halides before? Have you par mapped your tank to verify if you have hot spots? I’m running a similar lighting setup but on a 60”x24” setup and have no significant hot spotting with a very even and gentle par map.

I’m not trying to discourage you from trying metal halldes. They have their merits. And a single 250 watt bulb would likely be adequate for your tank size…but temper your expectations. You will have much higher light in the center over the bulb than you do on the outsides. And unless you use a DE bulb, one end of the tank will be brighter as well due to the socket.

This coming from years of halide experience using different reflectors and bulb orientations. You may love them, but don’t expect a pure flat intensity response. Don’t even expect it to be better than your current setup in that regard…it’ll likely be worse going from 3 point sources to one, even in a reflector.

All that being what it is, you still may just flat out prefer the look and performance of a single halide reflector. And that’s perfectly fine. Reason alone enough to switch. The Hamilton 14,000k is a perfect looking bulb to my eyes. Needs no improvement

If you want a truly flat and even intensity from end to end, get a 6 or 8 bulb t5ho unit and get away from point source lighting.

I have an apogee full spectrum par meter coming tomorrow so I’m hoping to get some solid numbers. Prior I just borrowed a par meter but it’s been awhile since I’ve taken some numbers when the lights are at peak.
I do think my setup is very good for the size tank but The growth is not there still for most corals. Im starting to wonder if I’m giving them too much light.

 

[Kfactor]

am a mh guy and love them but i think youy setup is very good i dont think i would switch

 

[Syntax1235]

I’ve been using the RB mh/xho pendants for years and I would not use anything else. The reflector is kind of small for 36 inches of coverage and two probably would be too much. The fixtures are about 15 inches, even at 16 inches above the water you may be dealing with more shadowing. KFactor has a good point, you have a nice set up now.

BRS has a pendant on clearance for almost 1/2 price. Ignore the 400 watt label, it means nothing since you have to buy a ballast.


Good luck with your decision.

 

[Rovert]

Deep 'punch' to the bottom of the tank? CHECK
Awesome glitter / shimmer lines like real sunlight? CHECK
Amazing tissue reflectivity for clams and the like? CHECK

Then, there's the power consumption, and heat generation.

If you're in the market, I have a vintage 2x 250W PFO HQI ballast in great condition with your name on it.

 

[mtraylor]

I think if you are wondering about then you should switch. There is only one way to find out what you like. Mh's are tried and true. You will enjoy that fixture. I would go with a 20k radium bulb. Report back to us and let us know which one you prefer and how you like it. With just a 250w fixture, it's an easy change out and nothing to worry aboit

 

[mtraylor]

Ther is no worries for heat that much on a 250w bulb. It's mainly when you u get the big boys......400w

That's when you can get some really nice colors on sps but it comes at a cost.

 

[Rovert]

I think if you are wondering about then you should switch. There is only one way to find out what you like. Mh's are tried and true. You will enjoy that fixture. I would go with a 20k radium bulb. Report back to us and let us know which one you prefer and how you like it. With just a 250w fixture, it's an easy change out and nothing to worry aboit

Radiums rock. I had been using the 12k XM's back in the day, but my current setup doesn't permit the luxury of MH lamps.

 

[SpSDrew]

I ordered a fixture with a 20k radium bulb. I’m going to stick on my frag tank with also has kessils at the moment. See how I like it over there first before i make a jump on the display tank. Kessils are nice but the single point of light can be an issue without throwing on T5 or LED strips with them. At least metal halides have a reflector to throw the light around more

 

[Kfactor]

I ordered a fixture with a 20k radium bulb. I’m going to stick on my frag tank with also has kessils at the moment. See how I like it over there first before i make a jump on the display tank. Kessils are nice but the single point of light can be an issue without throwing on T5 or LED strips with them. At least metal halides have a reflector to throw the light around more

what fixure did you go with ?

 

[SpSDrew]

what fixure did you go with ?

The Reefbrite 250 watt MH/LED fixture. I’ll get some tubes with par on my frag tanks and see how the acros do in there first.

 

[Kfactor]

The Reefbrite 250 watt MH/LED fixture. I’ll get some tubes with par on my frag tanks and see how the acros do in there first.

your going to love that fixure

 

[SpSDrew]

your going to love that fixure

I hope so. I got my par meter today so I’m going to try to get as close as I can with numbers to have less effect on the corals.

 

[Turd Ferguson]

On a 40G Cube I run 250W 14K bulb and a 50-50 RB and Actinic RB. Corals grow fairly quickly and my lighting cost is relatively low.

 

[A. grandis]

So the question is why am I flooding my tank with a thousand LEDs when a 250 watt metal halide can do the same?
Current system is a 90 display (36x24”) SPS only

I have a quad Reefbrite fixture with three Kessil 360x. The tank is flooded with light but I feel like I’ve got hot spots and it’s not even lighting. It grows corals but I feel like very slow.

I was looking at the Reefbrite MH/LED fixtures and possibly changing to just one 250 watt fixture. Thought ?

YUP! Do it! The quality of light from a metal halide system is great! The spectrum is amazing and you will be impressed. YUP!

 

[A. grandis]

I hope so. I got my par meter today so I’m going to try to get as close as I can with numbers to have less effect on the corals.

No need PAR measurements at all. Just get the halides and turn them on couple hours a day for like 2 days first and increase 30 minutes every 2 days, for example. No problems!!! Aim to like 5 hours a day first, then you can increase up to max 8 hours a day (only if you want to) slowly!!! Cheers!