Multiple lights single power supply

[srobertb]

I’m going to be at 7 large power supply bricks and it’s getting silly.

I have 3, 100w (so really more like 90w) lights that use a 24v 5amp brick. Can I wire them all into a 24v 20amp power supply? I’m not seeing in my brain why I couldn’t. I am hoping someone else who was tired of bricks did the same thing. I’d probably wire the power supply into a ventilated project box with 3 female barrel plugs to make it easy to plug in.


Power supply in question: 24V 20A 480W DC Switching Power supply Adapter PSU AC-DC 24Volt Industrial Transformer Converter 0-15/10amps LED drive Lamp Meter Electric Printer Heater Motor Pump Stereos Amplifier Fan SMPS 110V/220 https://a.co/d/iSMrlIi

 

[Timfish]

You can and it's one way to save space and simplify some wireing. I wouldn't though. Redundancy is one reason, if one PS dies your corals aren't left in complete darkness. The second is the amount of current on a single wire in close proximity to saltwater. Corrosion can generate a lot of heat and not blow a circuit breaker with that much current.

 

[srobertb]

You can and it's one way to save space and simplify some wireing. I wouldn't though. Redundancy is one reason, if one PS dies your corals aren't left in complete darkness. The second is the amount of current on a single wire in close proximity to saltwater. Corrosion can generate a lot of heat and not blow a circuit breaker with that much current.

I’m going to hold off I think after putting together the cost of the power supply, project box, fan, etc. It’s probably a $50-$100 adventure.

I’m migrating my controller and equipment downstairs and the answer may be that I have enough room for all the bricks and plumbing in the cabinet so I think I will wait.

They’re for 3 supplemental lights to my main tank. If they blow, I still have lots and lots of light. This was my first concern too and why I won’t be wiring my main lights into a unified power supply.

I see the unified power supplies come with a little dinky fan but I was thinking about building an enclosure for it and adding a 120mm fan and heat sink. Heat was definitely a concern and thanks for confirming that.

 

[oreo54]

I’m going to hold off I think after putting together the cost of the power supply, project box, fan, etc. It’s probably a $50-$100 adventure.

I’m migrating my controller and equipment downstairs and the answer may be that I have enough room for all the bricks and plumbing in the cabinet so I think I will wait.

They’re for 3 supplemental lights to my main tank. If they blow, I still have lots and lots of light. This was my first concern too and why I won’t be wiring my main lights into a unified power supply.

I see the unified power supplies come with a little dinky fan but I was thinking about building an enclosure for it and adding a 120mm fan and heat sink. Heat was definitely a concern and thanks for confirming that.

You probably should measure the actual power draw of your lights.
You may be able to use a lower (say cheaper) power supply than you think.
Though larger isn't a bad thing..
A 10% "excess" is usually enough.
Besides closer to max for many power supplies is more efficient it runs.

PART #: LRS-350-24
350W 24V Meanwell caged frame (you plan on an enclosure) power supply.

LRS Mean Well Enclosed Switching Power Supplies

$34.49

Add in the power draw of a 24V $10 fan..

 

[srobertb]

You probably should measure the actual power draw of your lights.
You may be able to use a lower (say cheaper) power supply than you think.
Though larger isn't a bad thing..
A 10% "excess" is usually enough.
Besides closer to max for many power supplies is more efficient it runs.

PART #: LRS-350-24
350W 24V Meanwell caged frame (you plan on an enclosure) power supply.

LRS Mean Well Enclosed Switching Power Supplies

$34.49

Add in the power draw of a 24V $10 fan..

I’ll take a watt meter to the lights for sure. Most of the power supplies called for 30% ceiling which is why I figured I’d run with 20amp.

Want to get the cabinet cleaned up before I do anything.

 

[oreo54]

I’ll take a watt meter to the lights for sure. Most of the power supplies called for 30% ceiling which is why I figured I’d run with 20amp.

Want to get the cabinet cleaned up before I do anything.

I take it the lights are run constant voltage bar type?

 

[srobertb]

I take it the lights are run constant voltage bar type?

(Kessil A360x)

 

[mike550]

(Kessil A360x)

The A360x spec on the Kessil website shows max power if 90Watts. So ignoring power factor your max current at 120V would be 0.75A. So if you have four your max draw would be 3A.

Your brick is rated for 5A because its probably a commercially available off the shelf brick that they can just use for all of their equipment.

 

[srobertb]

The A360x spec on the Kessil website shows max power if 90Watts. So ignoring power factor your max current at 120V would be 0.75A. So if you have four your max draw would be 3A.

Your brick is rated for 5A because its probably a commercially available off the shelf brick that they can just use for all of their equipment.

Lol…good catch…and this is why I was going to throw it on a watt meter before I bought the power supply. Absent mindedness, electricity, and saltwater. I’m going to hurt myself.

 

[snackpack]

If you're going to do this, I would recommend a high quality hard wired power supply, specifically Mean Well. Most wall warts and bricks that I've cut apart post mortem are built with junk components and encased in epoxy.

Something like this in the appropriate voltage and amperage should do you well and be reliable enough to not have to concern yourself with redundancy of cheap Chinese bricks.
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power https://a.co/d/6bMGUUQ

If you still want redundancy, get two and put half your components on one and half on the other. One light per PSU, one pump per PSU etc.

 

[srobertb]

If you're going to do this, I would recommend a high quality hard wired power supply, specifically Mean Well. Most wall warts and bricks that I've cut apart post mortem are built with junk components and encased in epoxy.

Something like this in the appropriate voltage and amperage should do you well and be reliable enough to not have to concern yourself with redundancy of cheap Chinese bricks.
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power https://a.co/d/6bMGUUQ

If you still want redundancy, get two and put half your components on one and half on the other. One light per PSU, one pump per PSU etc.

It’s for 3 Kessil’s as supplemental aesthetic lighting. They could die forever and nothing would really change so I’ll go with one if I decide to. Yes to meanwell. Yes to sealed and in a box. Good stuff! Thank you.