Fixing an EB832 with non-functional outlets but does have functional indicator lights

Ecotech Marine

MadeForThat

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
109
Reaction score
114
Location
Madison
CAUTION- I am not liable for any damages to your person or property. This is offered as a possible solution to an electrical problem, and with this territory comes risk to your health and property that may not be directly mentioned. You should only attempt this repair if you are sure of your own safety when working with and around both soldering equipment and electronics.


If your eb832 has the following symptoms then you can probably repair. Be careful and ensure that your symptoms ALL align with the following, or it may be a different issue.
  • You can see the EB832 outlets in Fusion
  • Outlets do not power on or "click" when you switch them in Fusion
  • You can see the small indicator lights on the EB832 change as you change them in Fusion
  • You can hear a "click" when the 24v "Link" ports are switched on and off in Fusion
With these symptoms, we can say with a good amount of certainty that your 12v power supply has burned out. Don't worry, if you are out of warranty, it wont cost too much to fix.
You will need the following: (amazon links were not working)
  • soldering iron, solder, and a decent idea of how to use them safely
    • amazon, walmart, auto stores, etc.
  • A replacement 5v power supply. I have found a few sources, but none of them are quick at all
  • recommend but not required- Acrylic conformal coating
    • search amazon "MG Chemicals - 419D-55ML"
  • recommended but not required- 30mmx30mmx7mm 5v fan
    • search amazon "MakerFocus 2pcs Raspberry Pi DC Brushless Cooling Fan Heatsink Cooler Radiator Connector"
Jumping right in, unplug the EB832 with apex connected. Wait a few seconds, as this will make sure any remaining power in the eb832 is gone. You will need to remove the 3 screws on the back.
IMG_20201221_183133.jpg


Once these are out, the shell is still held on the opposite side with little clips. Fold it open it like a book, being careful not to rip or stress the little white ribbon and the wires going to the cover. You will have this when you are open:
IMG_20201221_183413.jpg


In the bottom right corner is the problem unit. seen closer here:
IMG_20201221_183418.jpg


As you have probably recognized, it is pretty crazy that this entire product relies on a 2$ part to function at all. (edit- I removed a rant about Neptune)

Moving on, you will want to remove the fan connector. It is the small white connector next to the power supply. You just need to get it out of the way.
IMG_20201221_183509.jpg


If you look at the small fan, you can carefully break the hot glue and pull it out. Set that aside and I will mention what to do with it in a few steps

At this point you can lift the main board and inspect the power supply. You will notice it floats above the main board, connected by 4 small pins. circled below are those pins. Your replacement power supply will not come with these pins, so we will take those off from the old supply.
IMG_20201222_012358.jpg



I assume that if you are following this, that you are confident in you abilities to solder and de-solder a bit. If you have always wanted to learn how, this probably isn't a great project to just jump into, but it definitely could be done with very little knowledge. I will write the following will steps to follow but as far as the basics of soldering, you will need to find help elsewhere. Youtube has a lot of great videos, but to be honest I don't know what to recommend.

Removing the old board:
I would recommend heating up the solder from the bottom of the main board and rocking the power supply back and forth as you pull it. the 4 pins to heat and push through are circled here:
IMG_20201222_012426.jpg

If you do this carefully the power supply will easily come free with the pins, leaving the holes in the main board. You should remove the pins and solder them to the new power supply in the same 4 holes. Once the power supply has pins, it is just a matter of soldering that back to the main board. It should be obvious from the distance between the pairs of pins, but the letters/numbers on the yellow component should face away from the edge of the main board. If you are bending pins to get them to line up, you may not be putting it in the correct direction :) Sorry if this isn't enough of an explanation for someone new to soldering, feel free to ask questions and either myself or one of the other members may be able to help.

At this point you could close it all up and everything should work fine. If you want to test before you close it up, you should see this red LED on the power supply.
IMG_20201221_185558.jpg

Please take caution that there are plenty of live connections that would love to give you a jolt. So do this very carefully and don't touch anything in the power bar while it is connected to the wall, or for a time after disconnecting.

All that remains is that we need to have a look at the fan and do some coating to help reduce the likelihood of damages in the future.

IMG_20201221_183619.jpg

Go ahead and peel the sicker off the back of the fan. This will expose the board that controls the fan. If enough salt or moisture had built up to connect these pins, then it is likely that this fan caused the power supply to fail. That slight mist of salt that builds up on all of your aquarium equipment, gets pulled in by this fan. It wouldn't need to get directly exposed to water to cause the failure of your whole EB832. (edit- removed more Neptune rant) Whatever, here is what I did with mine.

I didn't outright replace my fan, but I think that might be a better move. I linked a compatible version above. I just cleaned the salt and dust that had built up on my fan, and then painted conformal coating on its board. It wont stop everything, but it should help reduce the effects of salt. I then did that to the entire back of the EB832 main board, and around all of the pins on the top side.
IMG_20201221_194328_001.jpg

Again, this will not at all stop damages from salt and water, but it should at least defend some of the more sensitive components that have been shown to fail from very small amounts of moisture.


Well hopefully this inspires someone to fix an eb832 that went out unexpectedly. I have ordered quite a few of these replacement power supply boards, and plan to sell them in the US so hopefully you wont need to wait 2 months for them to arrive from china. I am toying with the idea of offering to do this for users who cannot, or do not want to bother with soldering. I have seen similar ebay "electronic repair services" and if there is enough demand I will set that up. Total cost for me to do this repair is ~4$ and time, so it should be fractions of the cost of a new unit.

If you are frustrated that a 2 dollar part within your 250$ power bar could cause the whole system to fail, and force you to go searching for this thread, then you are definitely not alone.

I edited out a few sections of rant in my post because despite how cheap this system seems to be made, it has worked for many people. I don't mean to scare people away from an apex because I had problems with 2 components. It is good to keep in mind that although you may NEVER experience any issues, parts MAY fail. There are product issues just like any product. I think Neptune should supply information that enables people to fix their product independently. This has an obvious business flaw. Neptune wouldn't provide the information posted here because it cuts into new EB832 orders.



EDIT:
For anyone asking themselves "why replace the power supply with the same crappy power supply" see _AV 's thread below. It focuses more on fixing the core issue with this PSU, rather than just replacing the whole unit. It is a little more intense of a repair, but is almost certain to give a lot longer life to the power supply.
 
Last edited:
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED lighting
Maxout

Brett S

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
1,160
Reaction score
1,604
Location
Orlando
Thanks for posting this. Thankfully I haven’t had this fail on my EB832, but at least I’ll have this available if it ever does. I did have the fan fail a couple of months ago and I was able to replace the fan at that time.

With these symptoms, we can say with a good amount of certainty that your 5v power supply has burned out.
search amazon "Gazechimp AC-DC 12V 500mA Buck Converter"

I’m a bit confused about this though. You say that the 5V power supply failed, but then you seem to suggest replacing it with a 12V power supply. Was there a typo somewhere or am I missing something?
 
OP
MadeForThat

MadeForThat

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
109
Reaction score
114
Location
Madison
@Brett S thank you for catching that! It is definitely 12v. I am realizing I wrote that wrong in quite a few places.... I will fix that later today
 

TheHarold

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
4,834
Reaction score
8,180
@Brett S thank you for catching that! It is definitely 12v. I am realizing I wrote that wrong in quite a few places.... I will fix that later today

It also threw me originally that the PSU/fan pins are 12v when I expected 5v (according to the fan label). Overdriving it to get more cooling perhaps?
 
Tommy's Phyto

minus9

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
2,457
Reaction score
2,714
Location
Los Angeles (SFV)
Nice! I need to replace some film resistors on mine, but can't see the values, maybe someone can take a pic of there's? I need the following, R19, R21 and R50. These are located near the ports and power cable side.
F8C10897-F41E-4915-8CE5-9F15FB885D26.jpeg

My 24v ports work, but not the AC outlets.
 
OP
MadeForThat

MadeForThat

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
109
Reaction score
114
Location
Madison
@TheHarold Yeah I think that is what derailed me. I actually suspect that the 5v fan is running off of the 5v supplied for the USB's. I didn't think check if it was spinning when the 12v power supply was dead. If it runs when the 12v supply is dead, then in all likelihood it is not related to the failure of the 12v board. If someone could report if the fan is spinning before this repair, then I can edit it out of my post. Even still, it does not turn very fast, and I cant imagine it is really doing anything to cool the 24v power supply that it is pointed at. I actually considered reassembling without them.

@VikS if all of your symptoms are the same, do you mind checking to see if your fan spins?
 
OP
MadeForThat

MadeForThat

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
109
Reaction score
114
Location
Madison
@minus9 I can take a picture tonight for you, but I don't think you will be able to get a resistance off of it. I can measure it, but I cant get an accurate measurement if it is still attached to the board. maybe it is printed on there, we will see. Do you have identical symptoms to my original post? If resistors are damaged it is very likely that some of the more sensitive chips are also.
 

minus9

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
2,457
Reaction score
2,714
Location
Los Angeles (SFV)
@minus9 I can take a picture tonight for you, but I don't think you will be able to get a resistance off of it. I can measure it, but I cant get an accurate measurement if it is still attached to the board. maybe it is printed on there, we will see. Do you have identical symptoms to my original post? If resistors are damaged it is very likely that some of the more sensitive chips are also.
Yes, I get the clicking noise, lights work and the 24v ports and their lights work (indicator lights turn on/off when I turn on those ports) as they power my fans.
Having a clear pic would help, thank you so much!
Mine went down from simply unplugging it from the wall, then plugging it back in. Thanks for posting this!
 
BRS

TheHarold

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
4,834
Reaction score
8,180
@TheHarold Yeah I think that is what derailed me. I actually suspect that the 5v fan is running off of the 5v supplied for the USB's. I didn't think check if it was spinning when the 12v power supply was dead. If it runs when the 12v supply is dead, then in all likelihood it is not related to the failure of the 12v board. If someone could report if the fan is spinning before this repair, then I can edit it out of my post. Even still, it does not turn very fast, and I cant imagine it is really doing anything to cool the 24v power supply that it is pointed at. I actually considered reassembling without them.

There is no 5v USB standard here- those "Aquabus" ports are 12v. If you put a multimeter across the fan pins, you'll see 12v I believe.
 
OP
MadeForThat

MadeForThat

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
109
Reaction score
114
Location
Madison
@TheHarold very good information! I am glad you are checking me on this, I hope I don't come across as an authority on the inner workings of the eb832 haha. I think something must be regulating the voltage to the fan, I cant imagine this mickey mouse fan could handle twice the voltage it is designed for.

@minus9 do you get clicking for the regular outlets too, or just the "link" 24v ports? I am trying to think of an explanation why unplugging/plugging it in would cause it to fail, but have no good clue.
 

minus9

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
2,457
Reaction score
2,714
Location
Los Angeles (SFV)
@TheHarold very good information! I am glad you are checking me on this, I hope I don't come across as an authority on the inner workings of the eb832 haha. I think something must be regulating the voltage to the fan, I cant imagine this mickey mouse fan could handle twice the voltage it is designed for.

@minus9 do you get clicking for the regular outlets too, or just the "link" 24v ports? I am trying to think of an explanation why unplugging/plugging it in would cause it to fail, but have no good clue.
There's an audible click when I turn on/off the "link" 24v ports, but nothing with the AC outlets. There's just a general clicking noise that starts up after I plug it in the wall.
 
OP
MadeForThat

MadeForThat

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
109
Reaction score
114
Location
Madison
@minus9 I hate to say it, but I think there may be multiple failures that can lead to these symptoms then. I am curious if the resistors may not be the issue. (they definitely look fried though...) If you power it on while the case is open, can you see the LED on the 12v power supply? If you can, then the resistors and other chips are probably causing the issue. If you cant see the LED, I would probably start there and replace the power supply.
 
Tommy's Phyto

Are you currently housing your most favorite fish ever?

  • Yes (please tell us what in the thread)

    Votes: 121 33.9%
  • No

    Votes: 228 63.9%
  • Other (please explain)

    Votes: 8 2.2%

Online statistics

Members online
1,018
Guests online
4,162
Total visitors
5,180

New Posts

Top Shelf Aquatics
Top