Mummy eye Chalice receding

Hermie

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Yes I have nothing helps. I don’t think I should do any more dips since it’s already so stressed out.
The problem with mine was that there was algae on the coral skeleton that presumably produced bacterial colonies that stressed the coral. So after the coral dips (and h2O2 sometimes), the algae and bacteria would die and give the coral a chance to re assert itself over the bare skeleton. I don't see any algae on yours... so yeah it's more likely a different issue. I'd assume it's either too high light ( over 100 par) or not enough flow (or both). I just know they love low light. Good luck.
 
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Nick Rose

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When I finally got the PAR meter last week I saw it was at 160 PAR. So it’s been at 160 PAR for about 2 months. Now I have it at 100 or lower PAR. If it was the light why was it happy and growing for 2 months.
 

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The problem with mine was that there was algae on the coral skeleton that presumably produced bacterial colonies that stressed the coral. So after the coral dips (and h2O2 sometimes), the algae and bacteria would die and give the coral a chance to re assert itself over the bare skeleton. I don't see any algae on yours... so yeah it's more likely a different issue. I'd assume it's either too high light ( over 100 par) or not enough flow (or both). I just know they love low light. Good luck.
a good indication is it seeming lighter in color also. could just be the picture though.
 

Hermie

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When I finally got the PAR meter last week I saw it was at 160 PAR. So it’s been at 160 PAR for about 2 months. Now I have it at 100 or lower PAR. If it was the light why was it happy and growing for 2 months.
I mean... you'd have to assume that all things are equal. Corals need light, flow and proper water (nutrients etc). So maybe your water was good for a while then it was not good, but in a lower light environment, the coral may have an easier time fighting microalgae that can't grow as strong. I don't know man it's not a simple question that you are asking me. I am just giving suggestions, you have to come up with the answer. Flow is very important too.
 

King Turkey

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dang. mine just started to do that after having it for 5 months. so I am in the same boat as you. except mine is dinos. they totally destroyed my birds nest down to white.
 

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Just finished reading your post ,, I guess my first question would be ,, is the Chalice still in the bigger tank ,, or back in the smaller tank? I saw in your last post that the chalice is still receding :( I am going to say a few things with the assumption the coral is in the smaller tank ,, it doesn't really matter though ,, you can adjust the advice ,,

Lets start with the smaller tank ,, the down side to smaller tanks ,, you can't have extremely different types of corals in them ,, like SPS corals and Chalices ,, two very different types of corals that like extremely different tank conditions ,, you won't be able to make them both happy in a tank that small ,, a smaller tank means you have to stay on top of your numbers ,, read that part again :) your numbers in your first post were good ,, except for the Nitrates and Phosphates ,, you need to bring those numbers up ,,

Your question about lighting and if that was the problem ,, why did it take the chalice two months to start dieing ,, you can kill a SPS coral over night if its not liking something in your tank ,, it just took your chalice longer to decide it wasn't liking something ,, don't read anything other than that into that problem ,, it really doesn't matter at what height you have your lights hung over your tank ,, unless you have corals at the top of your scape that are getting spot lighted by the LEDs or you just can't get the Chalice the Par number you want without giving the corals at the top of the scape to much light ,, hang them where you want them ,, then adjust the % until you hit the Par numbers you want ,,

Your tank numbers all look good except for your Nitrates & Phosphates ,, I would bring those numbers up ,, I feed my Chalices also ,, but not twice a week ,, drop that down to once a week or once every week and a half ,,

Flow is a big issue if its to much ,, Flow ,, its a issue for Chalices ,, your were having problems with it in the small tank ,, you could just turn the Gyre off and use the return pump to create the flow in the tank ,, that's not what I would suggest though ,, my suggestion is to deal with the return pump ,, I have two suggestions ,, one ,, get a smaller pump that's as close as possible hits the amount of flow you want going into the tank ,, two ,, place a valve in between the pump and the tank that you can adjust ,,

You have your Par number right now that you tested with the Par meter ,, that's the hard part ,, you know what your lights are doing, that's a biggie ,, bring your Nitrates and Phosphates up ,, get you flow dialed in ,, feed the corals once a week instead of twice ,, don't over feed ,, the Chalice should begin to make a come back ,,
 
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King Turkey

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I did a 5 min freashwater dip for mine seems to have delayed the recession. Some say idoin dips are a good idea sometimes to. Just Info if been digging up..
 
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Nick Rose

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Your tank numbers all look good except for your Nitrates & Phosphates ,, I would bring those numbers up ,, I feed my Chalices also ,, but not twice a week ,, drop that down to once a week or once every week and a half ,,

How high would you bring up the Nitrates and Phosphates?
 

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